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Cliff C

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About Cliff C

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)

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    Chicago

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  1. As mentioned earlier, try dipping them. I paint the overall forward section using Gunzy Metalics II and then dip the tips into small pools of enamel paint. If you don’t like the effect or don’t get the colors lined up just right, you can use use a little Turpinoid to wipe off the enamel colors and try again.
  2. Amazing detailed and precise work. Thanks for taking the time to photograph and share. -Cliff
  3. Dave, any chance we’ll see VMFA-214 on one of the sheets? -Cliff
  4. Thanks Rich. As maddening as it can be, this is one of my favorite parts of the hobby. Thanks, some good info here. One thing to keep in mind is that none of the resin aftermarket sets fully corrects the intake issue. The TP II intakes used on the D, E, F, G and FB-111A differed from the TP I with the removal of the splitter panel, inlet spike was 18 inches longer, and they were moved 3” farther out from the fuselage. All the resin sets I’ve seen remove the splitter plate, increase the length of the inlet spike and some include a full intake ducting. There are
  5. Intakes The kit intakes represent the earlier style and are not correct for the E or F versions. I have several resin sets but decided to go with modifying the kit parts. To save a bit of time, I’m going to use intake covers and skip doing full intake trunking. This may be a major sin for some but for me, I think the red covers add some color to the build and I avoid a lot of work for little return. YMMV. in the first pic, you can see the additional styrene added to move the intake away from the side of the fuselage. Surprisingly, several of the aftermarket sets correct
  6. Incredible build. I’m following closely and appreciate the time you’ve talked to detail out your work. -Cliff
  7. Just received my order and very impressed. Order delivered to Chicago in about 10 days. Well packaged and parts look even more impressive in person. Best GE nozzles I’ve seen in 1/48. -Cliff
  8. Additionally, the HB mad riveter went a little crazy on the nose. Not hard to fix and easy to on the real bird. The HB nose has several large avionics doors that are molded open. With a bit of sanding, I found the kit parts to fir rather well. To aid in closing up the avionics bays, I cut out the inside detailed so that I could more easily align the parts before committing with glue. You can see that the panel lines separating the two avionics bays needed be modified and rescribed at a more perpendicular angle as well. It mi
  9. Thanks for the contents and interest. Nose and Cockpit The cockpit area of the HB kit is the biggest area of criticism and concern for many people including me. Before the Reskit cockpit was released, I had scratch built a new tub and come up with a new windscreen. Of course as soon as I finished Reskit released their set. Overall the Reskit set fits extremely well. Be careful test fitting the parts into the fuselage because once they go in they don’t like to come apart. You also need to be careful and not get paint on the Martin surfaces. Here are a few pic of the
  10. The last part of the wing is the leading edge slat. The kit models this part as one piece with a consistent taper from one end to the other. Based on all the pictures I’ve studied for the shorter wing versions, it is made up of four sections that are attached together but move somewhat independently. In Jim’s article regarding the wings linked earlier, the picture of the bottom of the wing clearly shows how the front of the slats changes angles in the middle. Other pics show that the trailing edge of the slats has at least three different angles. Here is a pic of the kit part (bottom) and t
  11. Thanks Rich! Here are a few more pics showing some of the detail that changed. On the leading edge, I removed the “step” and relocated the slots for the mechanism that supports the leading edge based on photos. you can see that the inboard potion of the slat was also shortened. The kit location dose not line up properly with the fuselage parts when assembled. at the trailing edge, most of the work focused on correcting the outboard section of the flaps. On the undersides of the wings, I repositioned the hinged doors over the flaps to be in
  12. WINGS One of the more challenging areas with the kit, are the wings. The easiest path is to gluethe slats and flaps in a retracted position and have the wings fully swept back. For me, I really wanted to show the wings swept forward with all of the flaps and slats deployed. Here is a picture of the Hobby Boss instructions showing how the wing parts go together As you can see in the picture, part M7 was somehow created as the mirror image of how the part should look. This part should be at its widest near the wing root and then taper to be more narrow as y
  13. For better than eight years, I’ve been collecting many aftermarket sets for the F-111 and reading articles on this forum to see how I can improve the available kits. By working at a snail’s pace, I’ve benefited from a number of great online builds, research articles, and the new Reskit accessories that continue to show up each month. In this build thread, my goal is to share the path I’ve taken with this build in hopes that it will help other who decide to take a similar approach, get input from SME’s and discuss alternative problem solving approaches. I will primarily focus on what was done
  14. This is a relatively new product that is really excellent. Not in in any way associated with the company but I am becoming a very happy customer. This glue is similar to PVA glues but much stronger and more versatile, especially if your final paint coat is an acrylic. This glue can be thinned with Turpinoid or similar turpentine substitutes. This means that that you can easily clean off extra glue after it dries. https://www.michtoy.com/item-VMS-CM09-TF-VMS_Transpa_Fix_6K.html -Cliff
  15. I do this all the time and works great with the silver hand painted or sprayed. Cliff
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