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Ade H

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  1. No, I am not. I don't appreciate being misrepresented. Why are you being so impolite? I only tried to point out that Vallejo matte primer can be sanded in the same way as Badger primer with much the same performance, but I would not have bothered mentioning it if I thought that you would bafflingly continue to argue against an inarguable fact. If you cannot get a good result from something, that is one thing (and it is equally true of many good products) but that is not remotely a valid reason to think that it cannot work for anyone. That would be utterly illogical. @Historybu
  2. That article must have been poorly researched. Acrylicos Vallejo has its own factory and it states that it does not sell products to be rebranded. It was started in the 1970s, then started making Model Color in 1992 (according to its FAQ). It is by all accounts (I work in the arts sector) a state-of-the-art facility. All of its paint products (art and modelling) are developed and made in-house. I recall Mig Jimenez mentioning in a video (at some point in the last year or two) that Ammo's factory had been expanded considerably. However, it almost certainly does not make 100% of its
  3. If Vallejo primer is skinning, I can only imagine that it has been sprayed much too thickly. As Vallejo advises, it needs only a light coat. It is somewhat easier to make the gloss black skin if maltreated, but even that never skins when applied carefully. When I began using it several years ago, my tests were unable to replicate any skinning effect unless it was sprayed too heavily and with no thinner. Or brushed on, of course. Then, it certainly skinned and therefore imperfections were not repairable. But I would not blame a product for my error. I use various colours of it every day in
  4. OK, I found XF-71 listed in Ammo (didn't search correctly in Preview) as supposedly matched by 0023 Protective Green (FS 34227). I can't confirm that, as IJN subjects are not within my knowledge. The metallic blue is easy as Ammo makes 0196 Warhead Blue (although I keep it only for brushing details and I prefer to airbrush the Mr. Hobby Aqueous H88). FS34227
  5. Yes and thus they are, I imagine, just as toxic when atomised. "Acrylic" is just a loosely used adjective to describe a paint's behaviour rather than its chemical makeup. @F-16 If I happen to find some equivalents for you, I will let you know; although, like you, I've drawn a blank with a brief look at Ammo's chart PDF. I keep all available paint charts because it seems like I'm forever pondering these problems!
  6. Ammo and Vallejo paints have never been made in the same factory, as Acrylicos Vallejo doesn't make products for any other brand.
  7. It is almost certainly rebranded Badger (or a remarkable likeness which happens to be made in the same country) and you may prefer the Badger cap to Ammo's spitting version, so you would not be missing out if you cannot find it.
  8. Whenever I see that old myth about Vallejo poly primer not being sandable, I bridle at it. It can be sanded — I do so routinely.
  9. In my one encounter with an Academy kit, I found that the adhesive seemed to exacerbate the problem. It was very weak (as other people have reported) with a fine line between under- and over-wetting. No amount of setter could begin to promote adhesion. I could see that my only solvent would be beaten, too, so I tried heat treatment; but even then, some of them cracked under pressure over raised details because they were so rigid to the point of brittle. It turned out to be one of the few AFV kits on which I had to paint the markings... If you want to try another solvent (if conform
  10. Bad news, but thanks for letting me know, Dave. It gives me a very legitimate reason to return them.
  11. I tried vacuuming before critical spraying jobs (with time given for the remaining dust to settle); and I tried using a mask so that I could keep the window and door shut. I still got dust in gloss finishes like car bodywork. You think that aircraft finishes can be tricky? Try car modelling! I figured that dust will always be there and it's not a problem until it's being moved around. So now, I set a large clear plastic box on its side on my spraying desk, with cling film taped over the middle of the opening, leaving enough room either side for hands/airbrush/model to be placed in
  12. Were Mk82s and Mk20s ever mixed, ie. one type on each station? Probably not, I imagine; but I'm thinking about the problems of quantities vs. value for money (only six of each type in Eduard's sets). Ah, interesting. I was searching at Creative Models as I needed some other items and had no luck there. I opted for what was available and bought some MERs and Rockeyes (not enough to fill two stations, but maybe they would look good on a scratch-built trolley... More research to do.) Thanks to everyone for your input.
  13. So, does that mean that GBU-16s were rarely mounted and never more than one? Is that a weight issue, meaning that GBU-12s were more common? Were LGBs never mixed with dumb bombs, other than the Rockeye? I do like the idea of LAU-10s, but they seem only to have been carried via TERs, and I can't find an aftermarket TER (1:48). None in the box. The same is true of the AGM-45: I'd be keen on a mixed bomb/missile load, but almost all of the suitable missiles are not available. BTW, I just totted up what Dave Roof's second example would cost me in resin: £52!
  14. Hello, I've been searching here on and off for a while, but never quite settled my mind about what combinations of ordnance are acceptable/probable for A-6 TRAMs with either VA-35 (Saratoga) or VMA-533 (Bahrain) during Desert Storm. I'm aware of the tables at dstorm.eu, which are some help but presumably not a full representation of options. There seems to be little other info. I have Eduard GBU-16s which would go to waste if I don't use them; but if they are OK, what can I match them with? A pair of MERs filled with Rockeyes would be expensive, so is a smaller number of Rockeyes a
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