Yuri

Always something to do with "military", but completely different. Yeah, definitely off topic, but if you like history you'll find interesting the story of the Roman Road Flaminia Mlitaris. It's a road built in Italy in the 187 B.C. (the same years as the more famous via Emilia) made to cross the Apennines and connect the newly conquered Pianura Padana to Rome. But since the first centuries AD it was no longer used and lost... So, in the '70s two now elder guys started looking for it... at first they tried to use metal detectors to find metal equipment left over by the romans, but it was use

I wouldn't worry so much about decals out of print.... As it's a lot easier to make new decal sheet than a new kit, once the new kit is available you'll see a lot of new decals pop out...

When I did my Su-25 I just placed a couple of B-8M under each wing plus an AA-8 IR missile. That seems the most "usual" loadout for an operational frogfoot. Even if it could carry more weapons... more weight means less agility, so the soviets at least didn't seem to load their planes so much. Even in afganistan they just used some rocket pods and dumb bombs. Wet pylons, starting from the wing root, are number 1 and 3, but I wouldn't place 4 fuel tanks under a plane, unless it's a transfer route.

Unless you put thinned paint back in the bottle, they have a pretty good shelf life

I hope so... in fact they did that a number of times lately. I suppose this has also to do with the fact that the master is cad-made (or something like that), so it might not be just a piece of cake to downscale it, but definitely less costly and hard than it was once.

Very nice... the only problem is the wrong scale. I still have a bunch of the wondeful microscale 1/72 decals..... I'd like to have to opportunity to use them on a model before they break apart! I hope they'll downscale it to 1/72

Setting solution basically lets you "float" the decal and ... as it contains vinegar, breaks the surface tension of water and it helps pulling down the decal in place without trappled air bubbles that would led to decal silvering. Solvent solution is a completely different stuff... used to melt the decal when it's already set onto the model (conforming to recesses and details) but it can also soften the clearcoat a bit... seems that's what happened to future becoming "sticky", trapping the decal. If the tips written by Nets don't work... and if the future coat is thick enough and you have a

Sad to hear it was something that could be fixed if they had recognized the problem in time. That's why constant training is so important. Even an experienced crew might not be ready to react when something uncommon happens. If your car has something wrong, you can park it, open the hood, read the manual, call a mechanic.... but in a plane when something goes wrong you don't have time to think about... you need to know what to do...

As others said, from the boxart is looks like a bis. Also, if my memory still works well.... mistercraft kits should all be old KP... so again a bis. The bis was also built in czechoslovakia and poland, so it was clealy used by most warpac countries, dunno about other "clients".

Oh, interesting... hadn't ever seen it before... I'll ask my lhs if they import it in Italy

Last week I went to my local hobby shop to look for some Testors/Model Master airbrush thinner and... surprise! Seems that stuff has been discontinued lately... in Italy at least, but maybe in whole Europe... think it has something to do with environmental regulations... In fact I prefer to spray Gunze.... but Testors has at least ONE specific color I use from time to time: a wonderful MiG-29 gray/green. So I took a look at Squadron website, but shipping to Europe is more than $50 for a single bottle of thinner! Do you know if there's someone in Europe (or who ships to Europe without asking

Uhm... never dealt with ABS plastic... how do you recognize it from normal styrene? Btw, tried also another glue with some spare bits of sprue... (Faller expert glue), it melts the plastic... but just a bit.. so the joint isn't very strong...

So..... with some mistakes I won't do again, but seems I finally got rid of that "impossible" plastic... next time I'll use an "hotter glue" and nasty primer...

Thanks for tips guys.... I was really puzzled by that plastic behaviour... I had cleaned it of course with soap and water... but maybe they used some silicone based mold release agent that kept paint (and glue!) from sticking to it. Yes, I know... cyano will weaken with time and it's not really strong to withstand some "angular" stress. That's why I reinforced the inside corners with triangles that keep angles from flexing. By the way, working with railroad models brought me to a new (to me at least) material: forex (or extruded polystyrene foam). It's in the middle between normal polystyren

Mine is in a glass bottle like this one the one you posted seems is in a plastic bottle, but yes, it should be the same thing

I'd say 1 and a half or 2... I like to put some weathering... just to bring out details, panel lines, some drybrushing here and there.... just as if the plane didn't just came out from the paint shop, but was kept in good overall condition.

Did they deliver it by post? :)

As others said.... unless the decal is weak (not enough glue) or hasn't sticked well, or you really rub it a lot... once it's set it's set... you won't remove it by just placing another one over it. Anyway, if you are still worried of making a mess, you can just spray a light gloss coat over the first decal to seal it.

Well, Gunze (acqueous) can be thinned in many ways... water, alcohol, their tinner, tamiya, but... Couldn't believe it when I was told the first time.... but the lacquer Mr. Color (that should be used for the lacquer mr color range) works as well... correction... works great! I always had problems with gunze (mainly the gloss ones) not being "hard" enough when dried... with some manipulation you could leave fingerprints and "smudges" on a gloss coat even after days... Then tried the lacquer thinner... of course this way the color is more nasty and smelly... but the results are wonderful...

I recently took a break from usual aircraft and helicopters and started working on an 1/87 railway diorama.... But... working on the model kit of an italian railway station (by A.C.M.E. no... no roadrunner, it's an italian model company)... the kit is nice, but I'm having headaches dealing with the plastic... It's that kind of kits where you can clearly see the engineers have a "below par" modeler in mind: molded in color, almost snap fit, no interior.... And of course... I wanted to add detail... but... the problem is the plastic... hard to work with... very hard, very dark and almost in

Definitely... a diesel has the option to shut down everything and stay dead in the water, a nuclear submarine can't: the reactor pumps need to continue working otherwise.... but in terms of flexibility they have a much better range without the need to go up and take air and they are probably more silent when cruising...

Seems unlikely to me... Don't know about the S-3 payload.... but the fuselage is just too small... it would need a complete redesign to carry any decent load... probably too costly, compared to the already available Osprey or a C2 upgrade...

"The Russians put our camera made by our German scientists and your film made by your German scientists into their satellite made by their German scientists". ICE STATION ZEBRA

It's incredible... most paints start to have some sort of separation between solvent and pigments after some time you opened the bottle... While... well I was doing some detail work on a cockpit and needed some colors I don't use very often, a leather brown, a beige and so on... took some old humbrol tinlets that probably are 30 years old and they are still usable (still haven't finished them... as I only use one drop at once... just for these works on seats, belts and so on). I'm always stunned by how long this stuff lasts....

This will happen two days before the day after tomorrow :)