ElectroSoldier

Its no wonder you dont want to use an RDBMS then. You would never remember how to!

Me too. So you think that give the fact that the Academy kits nose cone (as a for instance) can fit perfectly on the Hasegawa kit then the one clearly came from the other? That Academy made their tooling using the Hasegawa kit as a basis rather than a different master? What did strike me was the panel line artifacts. Not the panel lines themselves, I would expect those to be the same, but the spurious mistakes that can be seen on the hasegawa kit are also on the academy kit in places.

How do you know that? I mean were you involved in producing the tooling, or do you know somebody who was involved in making the tooling for it?

I asked along the lines of this a few months ago. Old Academy F-16C kit #12259 - Jet Modeling - ARC Discussion Forums (arcforums.com) I have a some of them myself, I have the Twobobs aggressor sheet and will be making the grey and blue versions but I also have the aggressor markings for the Bentwaters based jet which I will also be doing.

Depends on what you want to use it for. Its not unusable at all, youre over exaggerating there, I mean he uses it in the video proving you wrong. Or is this a way to throw you hat into the arena?

Yes there have been several videos on youtube over recent months that show the considerable advances made in 3D scanning. Its not prefectly possible to scan a part and print it. However the scanners are a little pricy.

When did the Bucc carry the 101?

But it always have the same front end. But then I guess it doesnt really matter what it looks like, it is really only half a step away from pen and paper

Yeah I know but Excel is a spreadsheet not a database

I would have thought you would be better off using Access, or better still SQL server to keep a computer based record, its more robust and can be programmed to return any search queries with some simple VBA or SQL.

Germany... Overland from Rotterdam?

You get the notice when its loaded into its stack, not when the ship is moving, nor when it is ready to be loaded. A container can arrive days before its loaded and that can be a week or more before the ship casts off.

Yes, just ignore it! Its the big brother mentality these rules bring that will make 1984 come true in practical terms. Just send it, let the receiver sort it out their end. Its not like the taxes if any are due wont be collected, they wont get the package until HMRC has their pound of flesh and nothing will happen to the sender in even the slightest degree because they are not subject to the laws of the UK. Get proof of shipping etc etc if needed, insurance is a good one, to prevent false claims on the part of the receiver then just ignore big brother at all costs.

I like a side feed, I have one for inks and glazes.

The suction airbrush as you call it has advantages over a gravity fed one but almost none of those advantages count for modelling. Quick change of colours Quick clean up Higher operating pressures (with thinner paint without problems like spiderwebbing) Usually have a larger paint capacity. Lower cost of ownership (multiple jars gets expensive, othewise youre cleaning out the jar every time) None of these things you will need, but quick clean up is always nice I guess. There are other advantages to them of course but they are just an idea of what the difference

Use some Tamiya masking tape to guide you where you want the line. Tamiya scribe tool, or even their extra fine cutting blade to make the new panel lines. A rivet tool is good, Trumpeter make one that is quite cheap.

Local production costs are much lower in China than in the USA. So a company can have something made in China then ship it to and sell it in the USA and get more money for it than if it were made in the USA. Its all about the money and who ends up with more of it once something is sold. The love of money is why.

How long does it take to make it look like that and then put it all back again once the doors open?

Euro1 scheme was different by command. Just because it was applied to more types doesnt make it the standard scheme for Euro1. It wasnt just the A-10A that had the 36081 grey colour applied to it, the F-15E 71-0291 also had it, if your idea about the 36118 version of it was the standard and the A-10A was a special case then that would also have had 36118 but it didnt it had 36081. I believe the F-16 also had the 36081 version of it, as did the F-4 its just that its version had a different green in it. Personally I always knew the A-10 scheme as Lizard charcoal scheme, not european 1.

And yet the TAC jets like the A-10A used 36081 instead of 36118, while MAC did use 36118 in their Euro1 scheme so 36118 wasnt the standard grey in European 1 scheme, it depends on the command. And AFSOC branched from MAC not TAC... At least in camo pattern terms. Yeah we both know that. So you think its just a mistake on the part of the guy who wrote the instructions?

Thats what I thought too but I recently got a couple of Cobra Company MH-53J conversions and read the painting instructions. It describes the European 1 scheme and the modified Asia minor scheme as used during ODS but then at the top of the page it says "Current Pave Low's are painted Over-all Battle Gray FS 36173" Which has the nickname AMC grey as its applied to all the AMC assets. What are your thoughts on this? Was it as some point for a brief period of time painted FS36173? or is it simply a mistake? Im not so sure because some times they do look like a very

They are a "pin wash" so you only apply them to the panel lines. A gloss coat on the whole model will allow capillary action to take the wash along the panel lines until there isnt enough wash to flood the panel lines. If you dont gloss coat it the wash will only flood into the areas where there is enough wash to fill in the rough surface left by the matt or satin coat. To use them shake it up to make sure the pigment is well distributed them just touch the brush tip to one of the panel lines and watch it spread out. It there is any excess where you touched the brush down yo

Exactly what Dave said. Just after I print the parts I wash them off with industrial methylated spirits, then put them into a UV cure station. After that I rinse them off in hot water, pull off the supports and do any finishing work and its ready to prime/paint. I cant imagine any other producer, home of otherwise does it any other way because you need to remove the uncured resin otherwise it will cure on there when any UV light hits it. 3D printed resin isnt like casting resin, there is no mould release agent on the parts that needs to be washed off.

I have got some Xtra colour satin that Ive used a few times. I would think the AK satin varnish is also good if you want. A layer of protection isnt needed but not overkill either.

tack rag and then a light spray with the airbrush before setting it aside under cover while the dust settles if there is any.