ElectroSoldier

Another example of this kit on ebay 1/35 kittyhawk kh50008 mh-60R Romeo | eBay Which is the only one I can find on ebay.com right now. It sold for less than a quarter of what ive seen it sell for with bids in the past. Even when you search sold items this is all that comes up Kitty Hawk KH50008 MH-60R Seahawk 1/35 Helicopter Model Kit - Used - DAMAGED BOX | eBay

I had a problem with supports but now I just get pre supported files and not had a problem since. I got the Phrozen clean and cure stations. The build plate comes off the printer and into the cleaner, I use industrial methylated spirits instead of IPA which does a nice job of cleaning up the goo, so well in fact that its not a chore at all then off the plate and into the cure station and thats it. Hot water is usually enough to remove the supports. But Im using the Phrozen 8k resin. Other resins might not work so well.

Not only is this the first time Ive seen nose art that actually is nose art, its the first time its made me chuckle.

I always liked the Scud hunter loadout. Looks kinda strange having a Strike Eagle without the LANTIRN targetting pod.

Its reacting with the paint already down. I would give it a week to let the enamel completely dry (which is probably over kill but you need to let it be completely dry now) Take out any of the wrinkles and runs with something light sanding, then hit the fuselage and upper wing surfaces with a really fine wet n dry to take the shine off it. Making sure you use it wet Once you have taken the surface shine off it try and hit the fuselage and upper wing surfaces again with the same spray paint. If that doesnt work then a bin liner and some oven cleaner to strip of

Im not really a Flanker fan, I built one a couple of years ago for a friend of mine who flew them but I seem to remember the painting of it was hard work because I wanted to recreate the jet he flew scrapped together from a couple of photographs. That was a Sea Flanker because the wings were folded up. But I dont know much about them. I much prefer the air forces of NATO countries. But I do know what you mean about using youtube videos to give you some direction when the instructions dont give you any real help.

Aires. Best advice I can give it to study the parts with interest then google some good pictures of the real thing and figure out what part you have and what it looks like in real life then make it work. Last time I used one of their sets was for a Revell F-15E. I ended up on google for what the seat is supposed to look like and put it together like a jigsaw puzzle. Nice in the end though.

Interesting choice. What was the thinking behind that do you think? Maybe the communists striking a blow against the imperialist aggressors?

How did the Vietnamese mark their aircraft with their kill markings?

Each and every resin has its own shrink rate. That is usually published on its data sheet.

Isnt the Academy kit just a clone of the Hasegawa kit?

They are steady sellers. They dont sell a lot these days but that isnt to say there isnt a steady flow of them, while other kits have a rush and then drop off to zero.

So I was watching this Kittyhawk HH-60R on ebay I didnt bother to watch it until the end because I wasnt ready to pay the stupid high price for it. then it ended Ill bet the seller wasnt expecting that! Kitty Hawk 1/48 HH-60R Seahawk | eBay

Its not a matter of how thick they are its how they look once theyre down. If they werent a problem to some people then this thread wouldnt exist, so there is clearly something about them that to some people let the kits as a whole product down because the engineering of the plastic parts cant be faulted

They are now, but you go back and they wernt always.

Sealed in what and by whom?

Thats the kind of thing I mean. The quality level is what it is now, I dont think it will get better than being able to print something that is equal to a Games Workshop Space Marine without any discernible difference between the print and the original. However technologies like DLP might change how it gets those results...

Blender seems to be a name that comes up very often when talking about design. As does TinkerCAD. I havent looked into it much as Im more interested in wargaming miniatures which I aint going to learn in 6-12 months. They all seem to offer the same abilities, its only the look of the application that changes for the most part. Having said that however all the slicers offer similar abilities but not all of them work well with my printer, so there must be more to the CAD IDEs too.

Yeah the one thing Ive noticed is the tricks you learn work with one make of printer dont really carry over to another. The one reason I went with the Phrozen printer is lack of print failures... But thats exactly why you dont like it. Strange world 🙂

Thats pretty much how I saw it too, but its not as steep a learning curve as you might think now.

The largest complain by volume you hear about Tamiya kits is about the decals not the kit or instructions, which were changed from the large sheet style of yesteryear because people discussed it as a problem.

That is the only reason why the air would feed back into the colour cup. Somewhere between the air port and the end of the nozzle there is a leak.

I must confess I cant wait for this one. It just looks so amazing, and that wing fold is worth a model in its own right.

I never really thought about it in terms of the same quality in a larger area. For me its more a higher quality in the same area. But then Im not a production company. I dont really care how long the prints take as long as I get what Im hoping to get at the end of it. I just set the printer to go and it finishes when it finishes.

No I know, thats exactly why I said what I said. I dont think modelling aircraft parts would press the printers to the same level as printing a wargaming miniature does, which is why I would say a printer like the Mars 4k printer would be more than useable. The same goes for the Mini 4k. I have actually been saying that from the start. However having said that that isnt to say there isnt a difference between the 4kk and 8k in print quality. If you watch the video you can clearly see there is a difference, but then you would never see that because of what you print.