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Posts posted by Supertom
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Hey Aidy,
Just to look a little I contacted Johnson. No, it's still here. In fact if you give them your zip code they'll tell you all the places you can get Future from within a 10 mile radius.
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Good grief, Ted Taylor, where'd you get that? I didn't know Sellotape made chrome tape!!!
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Hey! Did you know that CA glue can fog Acryl flat coat?
Had my cockpit fitted in, sealed with Future and then Acryl Flat Coat, stuck the resin bits in with CA....and then the main instrument panel and a few cockpit parts fogged up.
Anyway I can de-fog it without having to repaint?
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Okay, I got it.
Using everything you guys suggested (except for brake fluid), I finally came down to spraying a little oven cleaner into a small bottle, dipping a q-tip into it, and swabbing the joining surfaces. Leave for 30 seconds, then wipe off with a piece of cloth. Ta-da!
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The parts come on sprues that get plated too -why not try out a few methods on the sprues and let us know what you find out?
:D
Doh.
That is a good idea. Uh, okay, lemme get back to you on that...
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KYRRE!!!!
Where have you been?! I still have you on my contact list! Haven't talked to you in the longest time.
Thanks Madmike and WilliamG. The chrome I've been wanting to strip is off the gluing surfaces of my kit (Tamiya F-84 - Ha Kyrre!). Oven cleaner might work, but I was hoping to find something I that I could swab with a Q-tip, and working with oven cleaner doesn't sound too appealing to me, even with a mask on. Brake fluid sounds interesting. Isn't that stuff highly toxic or something though?
How about ammonia? Does ammonia work?
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Hey all,
Can anyone tell he how I can strip chrome plating? I seriously don't know why companies chrome the parts, glue doesn't stick to it anyway!
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Ollie's a good guy. If there's a delay something might have come up. I'll try to get in touch with him today and see what's up.
Air brush pre-shading
in Tools 'n' Tips
Posted
Hi EJ,
I've been preshading for two years now so I'm still fairly rookie at this, but I've found that you don't actually have to have nice, straight lines. Just preshade the lines roughly. The idea of preshading is to highlight the panel lines, then "fill in" the top coat in between the lines first before a final, complete brush-over. So we're talking about thicker coats on the unshaded areas and lighter coats over the shaded lines to bring out the detail. I'm not sure if I've articulated it right, but you're basically "erasing" your crooked lines when you paint over them. Also, I use light strokes instead of a single stroke to shade my lines. Take a look over at the WW2 Twin Engine Group Build and check out my Fujimi BF-110. The thread's entitled "Here's Mine - Tom's Fujimi Bf-110." I hope that answered your question, and good luck on the preshading! Oh, and I guess practice is important too.
Hawaiiandelight, I assume that your "final coat" is the last layer of paint. Try (on a small area first!) putting on some gloss coat. Gloss coats will saturate into the paint and bring out the color tones. Your preshades might just pop out! Or then again you might just be putting on too many layers. Like I said, I'm still learning, but I think I'm finally getting the hang of it. I'll post some more pictures of my Bf-110 tomorrow (my hand's a lot better and I can finally start modeling again). Hope that helps!
tom