ARCAccount#1

At a recent airshow I was lucky enough to get up close to this paint. Nothing I could find on the market seems to get anywhere close. It's dull in luster and only appears slightly iridescent in direct light and only at certain angles (like a cell-phone light held very close to the paint). I was really struggling to figure out how to paint these, but now I know I could get away with almost any grey with a slight tint of metallic added, and a satin or flat clear coat. Nothing fancy, and it will be very close to the real thing. I've attached the files here, but unfortunately the bat

May find them on the instruction sheet database here: https://galaxykits.com/instructions/browse/all Only 261 Italeri kits listed, but you may luck out. https://galaxykits.com/instructions/browse/manufacturer/Italeri

With fire.

I've run into the same problem. Worse, the braided cloth wire soaks up the superglue and ruins my effort to keep it flexible. Here's what I did: Melt the end of the braided cloth wire, dab a tiny bit of superglue on it, then glue to to valves. The melted tip keeps the superglue from wicking up the wire, and I expect that it may even be sanded or otherwise cut down to shape.

Barking up the wrong tree mate. Read those posts again.

Sure, assuming they're not liars in saying they're an actual vet. Just like the 2 liars here saying they're actual doctors.

Because all assertions on the internet of experience and history are fictious by default. Especially without meaningful proof to show otherwise.

Chalk it up to creative writing enthusiasts just having a bit of fun. It's the internet, nothing is to be trusted. Especially some folks here that try to tell tall tales about their fictitious experience in the military.

So here's what I've got: Prime the wheel (I use Black Mr Surfacer 1500 for everything) Tamiya X-85 Rubber Black What I want: Tamiya X-69 Nato Black for the contact patch of the tires Follow up with a circle cutter mask for the tire, then Insignia or Off color white for the metal rim. How can I go about masking or setting up the contact patch/sipes/tread of the tire for the Nato black? Thoughts?

FYI, the Scale Model Podcast did a nice interview with a distributor on kit pricing and manufacturer cost. Starts at 54:10 http://media.blubrry.com/scale_model/scalemodelpodcast.com/shows/ep65.mp3

Pfizer and Moderna vaccines see 47 and 19 cases of anaphylaxis out of ~10 million and ~7.5 million doses. With numbers like these, I didn't hesitate to get the Moderna shot when I did. Worth it. https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jama/fullarticle/2776557?guestAccessKey=b2690d5a-5e0b-4d0b-8bcb-e4ba5bc96218&utm_source=For_The_Media&utm_medium=referral&utm_campaign=ftm_links&utm_content=tfl&utm_term=021221

And the earth is flat, man never landed on the moon, santa clause is real, and 9/11 was an inside job. Absolute mockery

Please. The infectious disease experts have already made it clear to the nation and the world. And yet their expertise is being ignored by millions.

I'm curious too.

Got mine. First shot just had some weird cramps that first night and then that was it. The second shot hit me like a ton of bricks. 48 hours of chills, fever, headache, it was not pleasant. But after that it was all gone. Funny enough my spouse had no effects from either shot.

Paid $88 for mine, seems to be a quality kit.

Maybe we should be happier with the pricing in the hobby. Not only does it keep the wheels of business turning, but maybe it's an indicator that the hobby is growing?

IMO it still is a deal hub, the deals are just overseas and from businesses. I'm able to get kits from China, and parts from Russia at an amazing price, all with the comfort that if it goes wrong, I've got paypal and eBay buyer protection to have my back. Brick & Mortar shops tend to screw me on price and selection, so I buy 100% of what I can online. That's what will keep this hobby alive - availability and convenience.

Just finishing it up now. Very nice! I deleted facebook many many years ago, but I subbed on my podcast app.

Very nice trick. I don't typically use drawers, because I don't like not being able to see what's in them. So none of my desks have any drawers, but this is a clever solution for those that use them.

I've come close, but I never ever start a new kit unless I've completed the previous one. Learn all the lessons I can (and make all the mistakes I want) then move on to the next. Even if it starts to go down hill, I figure it's an excellent opportunity to experiment with a new weathering technique, or maybe try some scratch built details, or a paint scheme.

"Exlax thinner" I love it!!! Well done!

The only difference in removing the carrier between cold and hot water is literally a matter of a few seconds. But if you need some help or assistance using the Micro set/sol products, let me know. Happy to help. And if you haven't tried those products yourself, they're well worth your time to try

Pointless in a world where Micro Sol and Micro Set exists. Moreover, decals do not use the same adhesive as shipping labels or 0.5mm thick window tint for removal.

I just use cold water. I couldn't find any benefit to using warm water or keeping the water warm.