Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About BrailleScaleModelMaster

  • Rank
  • Birthday 04/23/1958

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Pawleys Island, SC
  • Interests
    Modeling (of course). Photography and playing my drums and bass.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I use solder. It comes in sizes down to 0.010". It is very easy to bend and CA does a good job of securing it. I have about a dozen sizes from 0.010 to .125. A single spool will last a very long time, I had some spools for 20 years and there is still plenty of it left. I also use armature wire. I have some all the way down to 0.002", it is thinner than a human hair. I use 0.004" armature wire for 1/48 antenna wires.
  2. When I did Monogram's Prowler, I actually went to a auto detailing shop and got some scraps of metallic tinting from them. It worked like a champ. Keep in mind "scale effect" you need to get several shades lighter than you think it should be. If in doubt get several different shades and see which one works best.
  3. I would not have messed with the needle. They are ground to dimensions designed to fit well into the nozzle.
  4. The Wildcat has always been a favorite of mine. Until Trumpeter came out with their 1/32 F-4F offering, the only real choice in Braille Scale was the Revell 1960's (re-boxed in 1980) version. I built this kit in the 1970's out of the box and was happy with it at the time. It was pretty simple and required a major rebuild to bring it up to standard. The Trumpeter Wildcat, though much better than the Revell Wildcat, still has a lot of problems. In fact, in 2003 Stevens International refused to import it into the US until the significant fuselage profile inaccuracies were fixed. Trumpeter went b
  5. I am sure they are great, and he spent a lot of time on them, but they are not for me. Archer 1/32 Resin Rivet Panel Skins for SBD Dauntless (for Trumpeter) AR88174 | eBay
  6. I saw that, $200 for rivets? Not going to happen. I only spent half that for the kit. I thought about drilling out each rivet hole, filling it with a small piece of 0.010" styrene rod, clipping it and sanding it but when I looked at the thousands of rivets I had to do I decided it was not worth it. I know the Dauntless was lap jointed with raised rivets but even with my AMS affliction, even I am not going to go that far. I am 63, I don't know how many years I have left on my parking meter, but I don't want to spend them turning recessed into raised rivets!
  7. I have once again gotten the itch to apply a #11 blade to styrene. I brushed the cobwebs off of it and took the Trumpeter 1/32 SBD-5 out of the stash. It really is a terrific kit, though true to form I will do a fair amount of scratch building work in the cockpit, engine and firewall forward. I have since gotten remarried and have moved to Pawleys Island, SC (about 45 minutes south of Myrtle Beach) and have to dig all of my modeling stuff out boxes. Some of it is MIA but I will either find it or replace it. I pulled my ALPS printer out of the storage facility the other day, I hope it still wor
  • Create New...