Cbk57

I guess in the end I argue Tamiya decals are not as bad as people make out because I have been building a very long time and remember using much worse decals than what Tamiya make and while not perfect they seem to be consistently usable. It used to be decal sheets were just thrown in the box and the quality was very poor the film silvered when you applied them to the model, or you had to trim the decal film because it was excessive. Tamiya kits and tamiya decals seem to have much the same minds set they just work. You might be able to find a better solution if you want to but if you go to

Usually Tamiya decals are bagged to some degree, I have not had an issue with their decals if they are closed up in plastic, does not have to be zip locked. It is better though if you put the decals in a ziploc bag. I have bought some car models of late from Salvinos Jr who use exceptional decals but just throw them in the box, now that is a formula for decals not lasting. I have a really old Tamiya Peugeot 205 on the shelf I have had the kit for around 20 years I think the decals though came sealed in it as I recall and I suspect they will still work. Please understand I am not arguing th

In building Tamiya kits since the late 1970s, i have had two bad decal sheets, one was a very old kit their Vaillant 1/20 935 and the decals wanted to fall apart but I managed to use them, the kit was at least 10 years old but they did work, I still have the model on my shelf. I built it in the mid 1990s and it was an early 1980s or late 1970s kit. I had another problem sheet with their Ferrari F310B, just a bad sheet out right that could not be used. Otherwise regardless of age if the decals were sealed they were usable. Now I have a really old issue Ferrari 312T4 on the shelf and the dec

Nope, no interest in building drones, but there are more models that I want to build than i have time to, so this is not a problem for me. It seems there is something for everyone. Someone must want to build them as model companies are offering them.

First I normally don:t use the stock decals in most military kits. Second I have a long history of building Tamiya going back to the 1970s. I suspect in part their decals reflect a focus that we are not interested in. That is, they don:t care if they are over thick, Tamiya probably values something that is easy to use and opaque. Tamiya decals are a certain style, I have found them workable if I wanted to use them in most cases. However I understand why people I among them choose not to sometimes. I find when I use Tamiya decals they are going to work, they may be on the thick side but t

Usually harness detail does not look good when made from injection modded plastic. Even with slide molding you cannot mold a realistic lay to the belts as they are three dimensoinal on top of the seat. Most would agree that Tamiya is among the best but even when you look at them trying to make molded belts in their 1/20 F-1 cars it did not work. That is a bigger scale where it should be easier but I don:t think you can find hardly any example of where it is done well. Now I have seen very nice molded belts in resin whether 3-d or cast. I actually prefer this to photo etch if well done but

For one new Tamiya F-35 I could buy 8 bottles of Tamiya extra thin. And have money left over for a latte at Starbucks which also costs more than one bottle of Tamiya extra thin. The stuff relative to use is literally cheaper than water.

I am used to how Tamiya cement works, I am not really interested in experimenting. That was the point of my post. A bottle of tamiya cement is cheap for how long it lasts. Find something else that for $8.00 you can use on a regular basis and lasts most of a year. If I wanted to save money on my modeling habit it would be far more efficient to buy fewer models as I still buy more than I can build.

For joining styrene plastic to styrene plastic as used in model kits, I have used exclusively Tamiya extra thin for so long, I don:t even consider anything else anymore. I went throug ha variety of glues from Tanex to Testors. Tanex was supposed to be good but every time I went to use it, the glue had evaporated out. Was just way too unstable. Tamiya just works and once I landed on it, it became my standard. I just buy a jar or two a year, one jar lasts me a long time so there is also that. Tamiya glue even though something I use a lot of is one of the cheaper modeling tools I use becaus

I recommend an occasional fake post, say once a week, to bait the scammer, then reply and tell him to piss off. Do it enough and hopefully they will get the message. That is what I did, but they may know my name now. I posted a wanted add for a 1/48 scale winged mustang oil pan. Every modeler on here probably recognizes there is no such thing and a few will recognize that it describes the oil pan fitted to a Mustang GT-350r. I hope the scammers are reading this as well, we are experts on models and their related parts, the scammers don:t know a fraction of what we do and we need to own th

I got a new rely from a yughh76 for my fake parts. Told me someone had posted a sale for a winged oil pan a few days ago and tried to get me to email him, I told him to piss off and get off our forum, that we are coming after him. MIght need someone else to create a fake post to ferret out the next one.

Nothing, I wonder if our friend has pulled back lot of work scamming for $20 and $30 dollar bits and people starting to figure you out.

Sprue Brothers always has a sale, do not know when it starts. Phase Hanger is running a sale as well as Mega Hobby

I am looking for an exceedingly rare part, 1/48 scale Mustang winged oil pan by Thunder Valley miniatures, if you have one I will pay handsomely.

Just watch I am going to mess with this bugger. You will know it when you see it just watch the buy sell post.