CFster

They changed from enamel to lacquer formulation last year. Also, what the heck is an “enamel pigment”. Are you referring to the alkyd binder?

Yeah, they should be green like the wheel bays right?

I’m using LP-11 for the wing center sections on mine. That’s a great color for the painted aluminum wings on a P-51 by the way. I thought it would be appropriate for this subject.

350 pipettes for $8.99 —> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JD8S451?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details 200 tattoo artist’s ink cups for $5.99 —> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0892XPPFV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Set of three cross lock tweezers for $7 (very useful for not only holding things but getting into tight spots with buts of sanding sponge) —> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073SJD7L5?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Digital gram scale for $9.99 (great for mixing paint) —> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y61YW7S?ref=ppx_yo

Looks great. I have a Revell on the bench right now. I too have had problems with Xtreme paints in the past. They’re amazing to watch flash off into a chrome like shine but so fragile. I’ll give up a little shine for durability any day. I’ll be spraying mine in SM-206. You wouldn’t be willing to part with that original decal sheet would you? Looking to do the U.S. Air Force FU-989 scheme with the orange sections.

It may very well eat the plastic. Not all plastic bottles are made of the same stuff. I use empty Mr. Color Leveling Thinner 400ml bottles to store lacquer thinner.

I would but I didn’t bring my spectrophotometer.

Only Xtreme paint I ever tried was Chrome, and the stuff would rub off with a finger. Switched to Mr. SuperMetallic SM206 and I could mask over that stuff in an hour.

That’s the problem with this whole thread.

Do you carry a sample of Hataka with you?

It seems Tamiya is releasing a new 1:72 F-35B —> https://www.tamiya.com/japan/products/60793/index.html?fbclid=IwAR3wxE8z9nJQulU6Xj3sp68dY4JXSmV1skSac_mW7DJeZ2O_zJPCK9UOzhw_aem_AebUPR9oX8YFveQVD1aAuCOx5jPyOnTIveZ9JX2l_Ftc1KsPQxek_cJw38_TRPnjtMY They have two new colors listed on the page: LP-84 Camouflage Gray (must be FS36170) —> https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tamiya-color-lacquer-10ml/lacquer-lp-84-camouflage-gray/ LP-85 Medium Air Gray (must be FS36270 for the RAM color) —> https://www.tamiyausa.com/shop/tamiya-color-lacquer-10ml/lacquer-lp-85-me

Not to beat a dead horse, but just wondering if you’ve tested Tamiya’s mixes for FS36170? They give this mix in their F-35A instructions and people tell me it’s pretty close… 5 parts LP-15 IJN GRAY (or XF-91?) 1 part LP-59 NATO BROWN (or XF-68?) Thanks - CF

Prepare a thinner pre-mix to keep on hand for future airbrushing sessions: 80% Vallejo Airbrush Thinner 10% Liquitex Flow Aid Additive (Purple Label) 10% Liquitex Slow-Dri Fluid Additive (Purple Label - not Green Label) If you’re in an arid climate and/or are still experiencing tip dry then that mix can be adjusted as far as 60/20/20 for fine line work at low pressures (less than 12psi) but you may run into adhesion and drying issues. Dilute “airbrush ready” water based acrylic paints such as Vallejo Model Air and Game Air to 30% with your thinne

Some people thin them for shading or other very low pressure work, but generally they’re fine out of the bottle.

Be advised respirators come with a variety of filter cartridges, some of which aren’t effective against VOCs, or conversely ineffective against airborne particulates.