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AX 365

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About AX 365

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    I invite abuse. It would be impolite not to accept it.
  • Birthday July 10

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  1. Next we move onto the HUD. Clear pieces are nice and thin but there are no supports on the PE to hold the clear parts in place. I used clear parts cement and a pressure clamp to keep things in place while they dried. I roughed up the surface of the PE part to allow the paint to adhere better. The part installed onto the IP coaming quite nicely. The rudders are separate from the vertical stabilizers. I glued them in showing a neutral position. There are also two PE stiffeners. One for the outside port and one for the inside starboard. A web reference photo showed me where they should be positioned. Next, the canopy and windscreen. The fit of the main canopy is very good. The fit of the front windscreen; insert MANY of your favourite curse words here. I'll have to break out the Dremel to remove some excess plastic on this. Thanks for looking folks. As usual, comments and constructive criticism is always welcome. Mike
  2. Here are the instructions and the diagram for the front landing gear and PE installation. Roll the dice....and....GO! In this photo, assembly sequence isn't clear at all. The gear is designed so the the front wheels may swivel, should you chose to do so. There's a shaft on part H27 that fits into a slot on part H39 and then part H14 is glued in place to part H39 to allow the swivel. I found this out after I had glued H14 to H39. Furtunately that TECT hadn't cured so I pried the two pieces apart and put the shaft of H27 into the slot where it belonged. Mine will not swivel and I'm okay with that. The rest of the parts fit together well. I attached clear parts L13 and L14 with CA glue. I painted the back of the landing light silver to present the illusion of the dish of the light after everything has been painted white. L14 is a single piece where Hasegawa's F-18 has a dish and separate lens. Here you can see were the nose well PE parts go. One part goes on the right side and the other on the left side of the well walls. I've gotten to the point that even if this isn't right, I don't care. They're in and that's where they're staying. They don't interfere with the main gear assembly of the door actuator piece. Further, where does part F13 sit in the nose gear well? Here it is, placed in the well. The instructions are vague and show it placed further to the left (as viewing the instructions) than it should be. It fits into a small recess on the roof of the bay. More pics in the next post. Mike
  3. Next update. Some good stuff and some not so good stuff. Let's start with the putty. As stated earlier, CA glue used around major gap on refuel door and then putty over top to smooth things out. Putty only on other fixes. This kit, like Hasegawa, allows you to build with flaps up or down. I'm going with up. There are two pieces of PE that need to be added to the area at the front of the wing fold. If you build with the wings folded, the PE must be folded. The canopy and windscreen have faint mould seams running down the length. The seam on the front windscreen is the same as that found on the main canopy. The seam was an easy fix. Scraped off excess plastic with the back of a #11 blade and then polished with sanding pads; 3,000 to 12,000 grit and then a dip in Future. Front seam still need to be repaired. More pics in next post. Mike
  4. You're absolutely right, pal. After I've eaten my crow and if there are any leftovers, I usually have it in some humble pie.
  5. That sucks regarding the tail decal but you pulled off a nice save and repair. She looks really nice ALF.
  6. 1/72 L-19 RCAC

    You're gonna earn your pay on this one buddy.
  7. The voodoo that I do

    That's what I did too. I also gave it a spot coat of filler to make sure it was nice and smooth.
  8. The voodoo that I do

    You're correct. I made a mistake. I meant port side, not starboard. Omit part 67 and fill the depression where that part glues into the fuselage to model a second batch CF-101B otherwise the depression buggers up the finish. First batch 101's had a vent similar to part 67 but it was much less pronounced. And yes, you're right again, The Electric Voodoo was the only one with slime lights.
  9. The voodoo that I do

    You're welcome sir. Also, for added realism of an RCAF CF-101, sand off all the slime lights and leave off the vent (and fill void) on the right front underside of the nose. Canadian Voodoos didn't have either feature. Here's a link to a photo of the one displayed in Hamilton, Ontario so you can see what I mean. Just trying to help. Look forward to your progress. Mike https://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1280&bih=647&q=cf-101&oq=cf-101&gs_l=img.3..0l4j0i30k1j0i5i30k1j0i24k1l3j0i10i24k1.1102.2153.0.2617.6.6.0.0.0.0.94.479.6.6.0....0...1.1.64.img..0.6.473.vgxD9jXrR58#imgrc=teBvMpTbH-9Q5M:
  10. Hobbyboss 1/72 CF-18A 425 Sq CAF

    Martin, Not a whole lot of detail in the gear wells, is there? I like your thoughts for the search light. Just an idea for an added bit of realism there, if I may? Use just enough gap filling super glue to fill the hole. Let it cure and harden completely. Paint the hardened CA silver and let it dry. Once dry, add the Crystal Clear on top of that. It should provide the illusion of the light inside the housing, like this (cursor on link, right click, Open Link in New Window): https://www.google.ca/search?hl=en&site=imghp&tbm=isch&source=hp&biw=1280&bih=647&q=cf-18+spot+light&oq=cf-18+spot+light&gs_l=img.3...1217.4747.0.5853.16.16.0.0.0.0.95.1127.16.16.0....0...1.1.64.img..0.8.624...0j0i8i30k1j0i24k1.9lsG-rfRfe4#imgrc=vMu-fX_7XAogRM: Just a thought. Look forward to seeing more. Mike
  11. Italeri 1/72 CH-149 Cormorant

    Looking good Ray.
  12. Thanks guys. I have made more progress but no photos yet. They're still on the camera which is in the model room. There was a bit of putty used around the gaps and steps but for the big gap around the refuelling probe door, I applied gap filling CA glue and then applied a bit of putty over it after it had cured. There were multiple filling / sanding / nail polish remover soaked Q-Tip sessions but the putty seems to be quite level. A bit of primer will tell me if more work needs to be done. As previously noted, I'm doing this one buttoned up; refuelling probe closed, canopy closed, flaps up, speed brake door closed, wings not folded, etc. That lends a few challenges but nothing that can't be overcome. Now would be the time to eat some crow. I'll have mine BBQ'd please. The reason I couldn't find anything about the PE stuff in the nose wheel bay early in the instructions is because it's buried in the nose wheel gear / bay assembly section. Again, because I had only attached the PE pieces with Future, they came off easily. I'll be able to put them in the correct place after all. Don't I feel like a jack-a$$. Once I download the photos and make a bit more progress, I'll post another update. Mike
  13. 1-72 Canada 150 CF-18

    Nice results despite the setbacks and limitations of the decals and the kit. Looks good, ALF.
  14. The voodoo that I do

    All I can say is Belcher Bits 1/48th scale CF-101 Voodoo sheets. Very good decals. http://www.belcherbits.com/lines/decals/bd9.htm Or if you can find the, Leading Edge Models CF-101 Voodoo decals. Very good and more comprehensive that Belcher Bits as it includes all the maintenance stencils. http://www.arcair.com/Rev2/1701-1800/rev1784-Leading-Edge4806/00.shtm Mike
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