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About Triarius

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    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 02/14/1951

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  1. It's an even bigger "No, No, NO, NO!" with acrylic paints—unless yo plan to use the whole bottle fairly soon, as in "now."
  2. From a chemical point of view, that's not too surprising. I can envision an acrylic-urethane polymer, but it's likely a new, not entirely understood or completely tamed beast. Ain't technology wunnerful!
  3. Did any of the underlying paint come up? I agree that the surface of the model does not look clean, and any acrylic paint want's a clean surface. I assume the metallic paint is new. You say it is thoroughly dry, but you may be deceived. Metallic enamel paints outgas and cure more slowly than other enamels, due to the nature of metallic pigments, which actually impede the migration of solvents out of the paint.
  4. It works well in tight areas and compound curves because of the high surface tension. The only time it may not is over very deep, sharp corners in the middle of a large decal, such as overlapping an aileron, rudder, or elevator line. In those cases, regardless of method, cutting the decal along the line is usually necessary as well as usually authentic.
  5. I agree that your surface looks too rough. That, I think, is most of your problem. My former technique: Soak decal until it starts to release from the backing. Apply setting solution or water to surface. Remove decal from water, wick away excess water by touching to a paper towel. Apply and position decal. Blot excess water from surface. Apply decal solvent. If there are air bubbles, I prefer to use a blade, rather than a pin, especially if setting in water. See also my current technique. Water's surface tension makes it hard for it to escape from a small, circular pin hole. The slight cut made by the point of a No. 11 or similar blade makes for a surface tension differential at the edges of the hole, allowing air to migrate through liquid, whether solvent or water, more easily. Apply more solvent as needed. My present technique: Soak decal until it starts to release from the backing. Apply a puddle of Future to the surface. Remove decal from water, wick away excess water by touching to a paper towel. Apply and position decal. Brush on more Future. ALLOW FUTURE TO DRY TO TOUCH—ZERO TACKINESS. This is critical. You can test by applying a drop of Future to a disposable plastic surface. When it isn't tacky, the model will be safe to handle. If there are bubbles, use the knife and apply more Future. The beauty of this technique is that there are rarely bubbles. It works because of three characteristics of Future: It has a very high drying shrinkage. It has a very high surface tension which increases as it dries. It has strong adhesion to a clean surface. What this means is that it will stick to the surface, shrinkage will pull the decal down on the surface and tend to force any air from under the decal. The high surface tension will also work against decal curling at the edges.
  6. Oh, you're asking about Tamiya Tape, not something else you saw on Sprue Bros! I misunderstood.
  7. I spray Future slightly differently depending on conditions and its age. Older Future, especially if its been exposed to UV light and warm temperatures tends to loose solvent. In such a case, I spray as I would a fresh bottle on a test piece. If results are good, then that's all I do. As this is the last or next to last step on a completed model, taking the time to evaluate how older Future is behaving is worth it. If results are less than expected, I increase the pressure. If 25 psi isn't sufficient, I may dilute slightly with 90% isopropyl, never water or Windex. I don't use Windex as a reducing (viscosity) solvent because of the ammonia. Coatings are complex enough without adding another variable. Normal procedure is to spray it straight from the bottle, gravity fed airbrush, ~20 psi. I never use a retarder or flow aid except under very warm or dry conditions (~78°F, RH 70+%). See also below for matte coats. The thing here, as with all airbrushing, is practice and experience. You want the thickest coats you can get without runs for a gloss surface. Unlike some others, layering thin coats of Future has never worked for me, though it does for them. Go figure. YMMV. Distance is critical when spraying Future, (or Tamiya or Gunze)—any predominantly alcohol solvent paint. For flat coats made with Future and Tamiya Flat Base, I do use light, misting coats. Again, I shoot a test piece because the addition of the flat base reduces viscosity and flow. When spraying a flat coat, I may add a small amount of thinner or use a flow aid. All clear coats are problematic because they are clear, making it harder to see what is happening where the paint meets the surface. This is where science takes the back seat, and art takes over. That's why I often shoot test pieces with all paints. I want to know whether I've got the many variables under control, and whether I'm holding my mouth right … :rolleyes:/> This is where my extensive experience in cat herding really pays off …;)/>
  8. Didn't know or remember that. Tells you how long it's been since I used Dullcoat. And your suspicions about heat and humidity and Future are correct. In fact, that applies to any acrylic coating. Enamels are more tolerant, but even they can be surprisingly affected. I live next to an inland, freshwater sea. It's always humid, here, even in winter the outside humidity is high. Didn't get any air conditioning at all until about five years ago, so I learned how to use Future under conditions of high heat and high humidity from the start. That air conditioner was worth every penny!:yahoo:/> That sounds and looks like a very interesting technique. Almost a "candy apple" finish. Car builders, take note.
  9. I must disagree. Like most coatings, Future is not a brainless application. Once I learned to use it, I never looked back. Rattle cans, like Dullcoat, are fine if you have a spray booth, or don't think toxicity matters that much, or just don't want to "learn a new technology." That last is a very valid reason. Rattle cans are fast, easy—and expensive. If they're worth it to you, fine. This is a hobby, it's supposed to be fun. (Who 'a' thunk it?:rolleyes:/>) The beauty of Future, as far as I'm concerned, it that it can be applied equally well with a brush or an airbrush; you can get any degree of gloss you want using Tamiya Flat Base; it has very low toxicity, even when aerosolized (still recommend a spraybooth); and clean up is a snap, whether brushed or airbrushed. But there is a learning curve, just like with a new brand of acrylic paint. Now do you see? :lol:/>
  10. Answer to first question: That's S.O.P. (Standard Operating Procedure.) Answer to second question: No. I already asked. They were perplexed when I told them what it was for. :lol:/>
  11. Use a low viscosity resin with the longest pot life available, and the softest mold-making material you can. Avoid undercuts in the mold.
  12. peanut oil: takes some time, but won't hurt plastic. Soak for ~1 week or more. Harmless to humans unless allergic. Simple green: very few things this won't dissolve, given time. If older than ~30 years: yellow mustard. Testors used a mustard oil derivative in their tube glue in the 50's and 60's, maybe early 70's or later for older stock. Alkali salts, (oven cleaner): dangerous, but often very effective. Alkali burns don't hurt until it's too late. Rubber gloves, eye protection, and vinegar close by are necessities. Brake fluid: Toxic but often effective.
  13. Yes, you can pour this into a platinum cured silicone rubber mold, though in my opinion it is not the best choice for making small parts. Lots of people use it. If it's what you have, by all means use it. USE ONLY WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION! Most polyester resins have a very strong odor, and it's not good for you. Some, and their curing agents, are sensitizers, too. If you breathe it, everything will smell and taste of polyester resin for several days afterwards. Wear gloves (nitrile) long sleeves and pants, and eye protection. Most of these can get hot enough to burn you as they cure. Don't mix in plastic cups unless the directions say it's okay. Consider alternatives: www.smooth-on.com
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