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About Triarius

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    Full Blown Model Geek
  • Birthday 02/14/1951

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  1. It's an even bigger "No, No, NO, NO!" with acrylic paints—unless yo plan to use the whole bottle fairly soon, as in "now."
  2. From a chemical point of view, that's not too surprising. I can envision an acrylic-urethane polymer, but it's likely a new, not entirely understood or completely tamed beast. Ain't technology wunnerful!
  3. Did any of the underlying paint come up? I agree that the surface of the model does not look clean, and any acrylic paint want's a clean surface. I assume the metallic paint is new. You say it is thoroughly dry, but you may be deceived. Metallic enamel paints outgas and cure more slowly than other enamels, due to the nature of metallic pigments, which actually impede the migration of solvents out of the paint.
  4. It works well in tight areas and compound curves because of the high surface tension. The only time it may not is over very deep, sharp corners in the middle of a large decal, such as overlapping an aileron, rudder, or elevator line. In those cases, regardless of method, cutting the decal along the line is usually necessary as well as usually authentic.
  5. I agree that your surface looks too rough. That, I think, is most of your problem. My former technique: Soak decal until it starts to release from the backing. Apply setting solution or water to surface. Remove decal from water, wick away excess water by touching to a paper towel. Apply and position decal. Blot excess water from surface. Apply decal solvent. If there are air bubbles, I prefer to use a blade, rather than a pin, especially if setting in water. See also my current technique. Water's surface tension makes it hard for it to escape from a small, circular pin hole. The slight cut
  6. Oh, you're asking about Tamiya Tape, not something else you saw on Sprue Bros! I misunderstood.
  7. I spray Future slightly differently depending on conditions and its age. Older Future, especially if its been exposed to UV light and warm temperatures tends to loose solvent. In such a case, I spray as I would a fresh bottle on a test piece. If results are good, then that's all I do. As this is the last or next to last step on a completed model, taking the time to evaluate how older Future is behaving is worth it. If results are less than expected, I increase the pressure. If 25 psi isn't sufficient, I may dilute slightly with 90% isopropyl, never water or Windex. I don't use Windex as a re
  8. Didn't know or remember that. Tells you how long it's been since I used Dullcoat. And your suspicions about heat and humidity and Future are correct. In fact, that applies to any acrylic coating. Enamels are more tolerant, but even they can be surprisingly affected. I live next to an inland, freshwater sea. It's always humid, here, even in winter the outside humidity is high. Didn't get any air conditioning at all until about five years ago, so I learned how to use Future under conditions of high heat and high humidity from the start. That air conditioner was worth every penny!:yahoo:/> T
  9. I must disagree. Like most coatings, Future is not a brainless application. Once I learned to use it, I never looked back. Rattle cans, like Dullcoat, are fine if you have a spray booth, or don't think toxicity matters that much, or just don't want to "learn a new technology." That last is a very valid reason. Rattle cans are fast, easy—and expensive. If they're worth it to you, fine. This is a hobby, it's supposed to be fun. (Who 'a' thunk it?:rolleyes:/>) The beauty of Future, as far as I'm concerned, it that it can be applied equally well with a brush or an airbrush; you can get any deg
  10. Answer to first question: That's S.O.P. (Standard Operating Procedure.) Answer to second question: No. I already asked. They were perplexed when I told them what it was for. :lol:/>
  11. Use a low viscosity resin with the longest pot life available, and the softest mold-making material you can. Avoid undercuts in the mold.
  12. peanut oil: takes some time, but won't hurt plastic. Soak for ~1 week or more. Harmless to humans unless allergic. Simple green: very few things this won't dissolve, given time. If older than ~30 years: yellow mustard. Testors used a mustard oil derivative in their tube glue in the 50's and 60's, maybe early 70's or later for older stock. Alkali salts, (oven cleaner): dangerous, but often very effective. Alkali burns don't hurt until it's too late. Rubber gloves, eye protection, and vinegar close by are necessities. Brake fluid: Toxic but often effective.
  13. Yes, you can pour this into a platinum cured silicone rubber mold, though in my opinion it is not the best choice for making small parts. Lots of people use it. If it's what you have, by all means use it. USE ONLY WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION! Most polyester resins have a very strong odor, and it's not good for you. Some, and their curing agents, are sensitizers, too. If you breathe it, everything will smell and taste of polyester resin for several days afterwards. Wear gloves (nitrile) long sleeves and pants, and eye protection. Most of these can get hot enough to burn you as they cure. Don't m
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