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Triarius

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Everything posted by Triarius

  1. It's an even bigger "No, No, NO, NO!" with acrylic paints—unless yo plan to use the whole bottle fairly soon, as in "now."
  2. From a chemical point of view, that's not too surprising. I can envision an acrylic-urethane polymer, but it's likely a new, not entirely understood or completely tamed beast. Ain't technology wunnerful!
  3. Did any of the underlying paint come up? I agree that the surface of the model does not look clean, and any acrylic paint want's a clean surface. I assume the metallic paint is new. You say it is thoroughly dry, but you may be deceived. Metallic enamel paints outgas and cure more slowly than other enamels, due to the nature of metallic pigments, which actually impede the migration of solvents out of the paint.
  4. It works well in tight areas and compound curves because of the high surface tension. The only time it may not is over very deep, sharp corners in the middle of a large decal, such as overlapping an aileron, rudder, or elevator line. In those cases, regardless of method, cutting the decal along the line is usually necessary as well as usually authentic.
  5. I agree that your surface looks too rough. That, I think, is most of your problem. My former technique: Soak decal until it starts to release from the backing. Apply setting solution or water to surface. Remove decal from water, wick away excess water by touching to a paper towel. Apply and position decal. Blot excess water from surface. Apply decal solvent. If there are air bubbles, I prefer to use a blade, rather than a pin, especially if setting in water. See also my current technique. Water's surface tension makes it hard for it to escape from a small, circular pin hole. The slight cut
  6. Oh, you're asking about Tamiya Tape, not something else you saw on Sprue Bros! I misunderstood.
  7. I spray Future slightly differently depending on conditions and its age. Older Future, especially if its been exposed to UV light and warm temperatures tends to loose solvent. In such a case, I spray as I would a fresh bottle on a test piece. If results are good, then that's all I do. As this is the last or next to last step on a completed model, taking the time to evaluate how older Future is behaving is worth it. If results are less than expected, I increase the pressure. If 25 psi isn't sufficient, I may dilute slightly with 90% isopropyl, never water or Windex. I don't use Windex as a re
  8. Didn't know or remember that. Tells you how long it's been since I used Dullcoat. And your suspicions about heat and humidity and Future are correct. In fact, that applies to any acrylic coating. Enamels are more tolerant, but even they can be surprisingly affected. I live next to an inland, freshwater sea. It's always humid, here, even in winter the outside humidity is high. Didn't get any air conditioning at all until about five years ago, so I learned how to use Future under conditions of high heat and high humidity from the start. That air conditioner was worth every penny!:yahoo:/> T
  9. I must disagree. Like most coatings, Future is not a brainless application. Once I learned to use it, I never looked back. Rattle cans, like Dullcoat, are fine if you have a spray booth, or don't think toxicity matters that much, or just don't want to "learn a new technology." That last is a very valid reason. Rattle cans are fast, easy—and expensive. If they're worth it to you, fine. This is a hobby, it's supposed to be fun. (Who 'a' thunk it?:rolleyes:/>) The beauty of Future, as far as I'm concerned, it that it can be applied equally well with a brush or an airbrush; you can get any deg
  10. Answer to first question: That's S.O.P. (Standard Operating Procedure.) Answer to second question: No. I already asked. They were perplexed when I told them what it was for. :lol:/>
  11. Use a low viscosity resin with the longest pot life available, and the softest mold-making material you can. Avoid undercuts in the mold.
  12. peanut oil: takes some time, but won't hurt plastic. Soak for ~1 week or more. Harmless to humans unless allergic. Simple green: very few things this won't dissolve, given time. If older than ~30 years: yellow mustard. Testors used a mustard oil derivative in their tube glue in the 50's and 60's, maybe early 70's or later for older stock. Alkali salts, (oven cleaner): dangerous, but often very effective. Alkali burns don't hurt until it's too late. Rubber gloves, eye protection, and vinegar close by are necessities. Brake fluid: Toxic but often effective.
  13. Yes, you can pour this into a platinum cured silicone rubber mold, though in my opinion it is not the best choice for making small parts. Lots of people use it. If it's what you have, by all means use it. USE ONLY WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION! Most polyester resins have a very strong odor, and it's not good for you. Some, and their curing agents, are sensitizers, too. If you breathe it, everything will smell and taste of polyester resin for several days afterwards. Wear gloves (nitrile) long sleeves and pants, and eye protection. Most of these can get hot enough to burn you as they cure. Don't m
  14. Better living through chemistry … If Royale lists a preferred cleaner, they know the chemistry of their resin and release agents, so that will probably work best. In that regard, I've yet to find a polymer that Simple Green won't remove, given sufficient time, at least. Yes, even enamel paints and some epoxies, though there are much more efficient, though more noxious, ways to remove both. I'm glad there is no strong or persistent odor. When that occurs, it usually means misproportioned resin. While that can sometimes be remedied, it's an absolute bear.
  15. I assume you also rinse them after washing with soap. Part of the problem may come from there if you have hard water, but the likely major cause requires three critical questions: When you take them out of the package, is there a strong odor? Can you describe the odor? Does the odor persist (can you still smell it if you sniff the parts, or if you keep them in a closed container for a few hours?
  16. Sobo craft glue or Micro Krystal Clear. Essentially identical in performance, but the craft glue is less expensive.
  17. Assuming a sufficiently glossy substrate, the easiest solution is to use Future as your setting solution. Once the decal has released from the paper, brush a shallow puddle of Future on the location. Drain the decal of excess water by touching the edge to a paper towel, then slide it onto-into the Future. Brush on a little more Future if needed to submerge the decal completely and position. If you have too much Future, wick the excess away with something absorbent and lint free. Works every time.
  18. Temperature extremes will have an effect on any polymer, especially cyclic extremes, and over time that may affect your CA, though it will have a greater effect on your paints. The real problem with CA is humidity. CA is a "moisture curing" adhesive. It's so sensitive to moisture that you can accelerate the cure of small amounts by exhaling on the bond like you would on a pair of glasses to clean them. Not as fast as using an accelerator, but useful, now and then. Over time, exposure to high humidity will cause the CA to start to cure in the bottle. This is why some keep their CA in the frid
  19. Even those that don't have water in them may have other components that will dissolve the copper plating, which can give the paint a greenish cast, at best. At worst, reaction of any paint component with any metal cation may ruin the paint. If you can, acquire a few small, stainless steel ball bearings for the purpose. For acrylics, ~1/4 inch glass beads work well.
  20. Artist's oil paints are made with "drying" oils. IIRC, most don't actually cross link to form polymers, so they can be at least partially redissolved with an appropriate thinner. MoFo's suggestions are best. Heating may help, but it has to be a source of heat that cannot cause ignition of the oil in the paint, at which point it becomes thick, colored napalm. Hot water is best, followed by a heat gun carefully wielded. Open flame is right out.:shoot:/> As for just poking a hole in the tube and letting it crust over, that will work for a time, but it is not the same quality of seal you get f
  21. First, are you sure you mixed the paint thoroughly by stirring (shaking really won't work with flat coats.) Diatomaceous earth, available in garden supply stores. This is very fine silica, so remember to wear a dust mask and gloves when handling it. This is also the major component of true chalk. Powdered limestone. This is sold as "workability aid" for masonry mortar. Talc will work if you can get it in a pure form. The problem with baby powder is that most contain a fragrance, and every one I've seen contains corn starch. The latter will eventually attract mold, mildew, and even fungus.
  22. If you can't get liquid decal film, Future or equivalent is a good idea. Don't spray the whole sheet with Future, just brush it on individual decals and allow to cure fully.
  23. I did, at least twice, years ago. The second time, it was out of date before distribution. Several years later, Aaron Skinner of FSM did something similar. It was out of date the month it was published. I have also posted a quick and dirty method a modeler can use to determine paint-solvent compatibility, several times, on ARC forums. One of them may still be here, though I've no idea how long they keep things. I also forgot to answer your question on Alclad. While the actual composition is a secret known only to the manufacturer, they call it a lacquer, and it seems to behave like one. I h
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