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Bob Beary

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Everything posted by Bob Beary

  1. That time trial was one for the ages!!! The entire Tour was great! Some of those climbs were epic! I can't imagine a 25% gradient. Kudos to anyone who can get a bike up that. Another thing I found interesting was that Phil Liggett was in London and Bob Roll was somewhere in the states and it was like they were sitting next to one another. No breaks in the conversations. I do miss Paul Sherwin though. One of the best. And spectacular architecture that goes back centuries. Bob
  2. This is the only way to fix the problem. No glue by itself will ever work. Not sure where it is broken, but depending on location, possibly replace the plastic piece with a brass rod or the like. Bob
  3. I spray various clear coats all the time with the 0.35 tip. Check out Peri's models on Youtube. He seems to shoot everything through a 0.2 tip and 15 psi. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGbS5GGhxRo He usually dilutes 40/60 paint to solvent. Bob
  4. All I ever use is the .35 tip that came with it. It is very capable of broad coverage. I can also get fine line control as well. I've sprayed enamels, acrylics, lacquers, and Future. The key word is "supposedly" thinned. The bottom line on thinning paint is....thin it until it sprays the way you want it to. It depends on many things....type of paint, psi coming through the line, sometimes the color of a given paint requires more or less thinning than another color, broad coverage, fine line work, distance from the model etc. etc. etc. Thin it until it works!
  5. You cannot go wrong with the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. I've had mine for years and it will do anything I want from an airbrush. I've used it for tight patterns and wide patterns and have shot just about every kind of model paint etc. through it.. Bob
  6. Check the. "first airbrush" post on June 14th in this forum. Bob
  7. You posted this in the "archived" tools 'n' tips forum. Go up one line to get to the tool and tips forum. Bob
  8. You could also cover the defect with thin plastic sheet material. Cut it to whatever shape seems appropriate for the area and bevel the edges.. It would look like a panel of sorts and seem likely to belong there. Bob
  9. You posted this in the "archived" topics. Go one line up to post in the "general discussion" area. It will be seen by more folks. Bob
  10. How about just decreasing the spring tension on the trigger? Some people use their thumb to control the trigger. Some of the Grex ones have a pistol grip and you can get various size needles. Bob
  11. Have you ever tried craft type paint? I used Apple Barrel gold leaf and platinum silver to great effect on some brake disks on a model car. They brushed very well, dried quickly, water based and much cheaper than model paints. Michael's, Hobby Lobby etc..
  12. What pressure are you using? Maybe go to a very low pressure. Corners are tough because of the turbulent airflow. And outside corners are problematic as well...they require a light tack coat first, otherwise the gloss coats tend to pull away. Possibly that's what happened around some of your panel lines.. Bob
  13. One of the best Skyraider models I have seen. Superb in every respect and great photography. The weathering is fantastic. Hard to tell from the real plane. Job very well done!! Bob
  14. This. I see no need to immerse an entire airbrush body in anything. I would just put the metal parts....needle, nozzle, spray head etc in the ultrasonic using whatever solution you want. Bear in mind that windex and other solutions containing ammonia can remove the chrome from parts like the paint cup. I have airbrushes that are 30+ years old, have never been immersed in anything and work just fine. The most critical part is the nozzle. Bob
  15. Why not just paint the leading edges after the clear coat? I don't think any decals would be in the area to worry about and it would be a pretty easy masking job. You might want to mask the area prior to clear coat to keep the original paint substrate for the Alclad. Bob
  16. Check out MS flight sim 2020!! Still in alpha/beta testing, but wow!
  17. Tamiya TS-14 in the spray can. Decant and airbrush. If it's good enough for Chuck Sawyer (check out his F-5 and P-38 builds) it's good enough for the rest of us. Bob
  18. Can you glue some shims in place just inside the cockpit side walls to force the edges of the canopy out to where they belong? Have the edges of the shims just above the side walls.. Bob
  19. I agree with you. I think the surface is too glossy to let any of the wash "stick" to the model surface. Also, with the color coats and the multiple clear coats, the panel lines have been filled in to some extent, compounding the issue. Bob
  20. I knew you would succeed at this....after all, you are building a Hasegawa F-14!!! Glad it worked out for you. Bob
  21. Lacquer thinner should be able to clean anything. You might try a fine metal polish compound, Brasso, or even toothpaste. 4/0 steel wool ? Very fine sandpaper for everything except the tip? Bob
  22. Walt's just opened up about 2 weeks ago!! Bruce and Mike L both said they are VERY busy...crazy busy!! Super happy for them. I've got plenty of stuff to keep me busy, so didn't have to order anything. If I did It would be Sprue Brothers. Bob
  23. I have many bottles of Alclad that are 10+ years old and they spray with no problems at around 15-18 psi..
  24. Great collection of superb photos!! What type of lens were you using for the aerial shots? Thanks, Bob
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