Bob Beary

One more thing to try...run the compressor with the air line (hose) attached, but without the airbrush. Just let it run for a few minutes to blow any moisture out of the line. Hold the end of the hose to see if any water comes out. Bob

You should be able to push up on the fitting at the bottom of the moisture trap to drain it Possibly the trap ca be unscrewed. I drain my compressor after every use. Bob

Is there visible water in the moisture trap on the compressor? Have you drained that? When was the last time you drained the tank? Bob

THIS!!!

Wet your finger with saliva and dab some on the area. Sounds gross, but it does work. Or use lots of water. Or put a very small drop of dish soap into the water that you put on the area. When faced with decals like this, I never put any decal setting solutions under the decals as you normally might do. I use just water. Bob

Once you get it stripped, use Tamiya Fine White Primer in the rattle can. Then shoot the rattle can Silver Leaf over that....carefully!! You do not need a polished black base for that color. Considering that it is a rattle can application, there will be so much Silver Leaf over the black that it will negate any benefit from the black. Bob

I'm thinking that the Rust-Oleum is an enamel based paint and the Tamiya is a lacquer based paint. If you spray the latter out of the aerosol can, it is way too much lacquer over the enamel. Bob

Thanks. 3D printing you say? Plan B for me :) Bob

Did you make that holder for the Tamiya cement bottles? If so, what did you use? It looks like some sort of styrofoam material. Also looks very secure around the bottles. Bob

Maybe wrap tape, paper or very thin plastic sheet material around the area! Bob

You will probably be more successful just buying aftermarket decals from any number of sites

I'm not sure now if this is the link he referred to, but there is very little of his build on it. Skip to page 19 for the build. If anyone can find a better build, please let us know with the link. Here's what I found... Hope that worked, Bob

I thought it was on this site. Just found it. Thanks, Bob

Can you, or anyone else, provide a link to that pure plastic online build? Despite searching, I could not find a anything. Thanks, Bob

That time trial was one for the ages!!! The entire Tour was great! Some of those climbs were epic! I can't imagine a 25% gradient. Kudos to anyone who can get a bike up that. Another thing I found interesting was that Phil Liggett was in London and Bob Roll was somewhere in the states and it was like they were sitting next to one another. No breaks in the conversations. I do miss Paul Sherwin though. One of the best. And spectacular architecture that goes back centuries. Bob

This is the only way to fix the problem. No glue by itself will ever work. Not sure where it is broken, but depending on location, possibly replace the plastic piece with a brass rod or the like. Bob

I spray various clear coats all the time with the 0.35 tip. Check out Peri's models on Youtube. He seems to shoot everything through a 0.2 tip and 15 psi. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGbS5GGhxRo He usually dilutes 40/60 paint to solvent. Bob

All I ever use is the .35 tip that came with it. It is very capable of broad coverage. I can also get fine line control as well. I've sprayed enamels, acrylics, lacquers, and Future. The key word is "supposedly" thinned. The bottom line on thinning paint is....thin it until it sprays the way you want it to. It depends on many things....type of paint, psi coming through the line, sometimes the color of a given paint requires more or less thinning than another color, broad coverage, fine line work, distance from the model etc. etc. etc. Thin it until it works!

You cannot go wrong with the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. I've had mine for years and it will do anything I want from an airbrush. I've used it for tight patterns and wide patterns and have shot just about every kind of model paint etc. through it.. Bob

Check the. "first airbrush" post on June 14th in this forum. Bob

You posted this in the "archived" tools 'n' tips forum. Go up one line to get to the tool and tips forum. Bob

You could also cover the defect with thin plastic sheet material. Cut it to whatever shape seems appropriate for the area and bevel the edges.. It would look like a panel of sorts and seem likely to belong there. Bob

You posted this in the "archived" topics. Go one line up to post in the "general discussion" area. It will be seen by more folks. Bob

How about just decreasing the spring tension on the trigger? Some people use their thumb to control the trigger. Some of the Grex ones have a pistol grip and you can get various size needles. Bob

Have you ever tried craft type paint? I used Apple Barrel gold leaf and platinum silver to great effect on some brake disks on a model car. They brushed very well, dried quickly, water based and much cheaper than model paints. Michael's, Hobby Lobby etc..