Ben Brown

To add to Ilias's post, there were differences between the USAF and Navy seats. I think most of the available 1/48 resin H7 seats are USAF. Hypersonic's H5s are Navy, but they had been converted to H7s by the time frame the OP is interested in. I wan't to say the True Details seats are the Navy style and Verlinden's are USAF. I once started a running list of which of the above were USAF and which were Navy, but I can't find it. Anyone else have this info? Ben

This is what happens when I get up too early and try to answer questions before the caffeine has had time to kick in. What I meant to say is, they started paining the F-100s aluminum lacquer in the mid-1950s, I assume for corrosion control. Some of the last F-100s built even rolled out of the factory painted (per Dave Menard). The famous Triple Zilch, that everyone builds in highly polished natural metal, was actually painted aluminum (ca. 1954). The USAF started camouflaging everything, Thuds, Huns, F-4s, etc, in 1964-65, as you said. Sorry for the confusion! Cheers! Ben

Hi Armando, The cockpits of both jets were Dark Gull Gray FS36231. It was the standard cockpit color for USAF and USN jets after the early 1950s. The F-100's wheel wells were a medium green. I usually use the same medium green as found in the USAF Vietnam camouflage (FS34102). It is a pretty good match for the gear wells of a couple of unrestored F-100s I once checked. The paints sold as "Interior Green" are too light. The interiors of the gear doors and the struts were silver. 'The F-105 seems to have started out with a darkish interior green like the F-100. I've also seen mention of camouflage gray or white on camouflaged Thuds. I don't have my notes with me but others can confirm. If you are building a natural metal or silver Thud, I'd use green. The gear struts and door interiors were natural metal or silver on silver jets and could have been silver, underside color, or white on camouflaged jets. I think white was probably used later, after they had reached the Air National Guard. Note that by the time both types were flying in Vietnam, they were painted with an aluminum lacquer paint. The only natural metal F-100s by then were the Thunderbirds jets. The Thuds were painted around 1962 and they started painting the F-100s during the mid-1950s. HTH. Ben

Another vote for the Premier Hawk! What a nightmare! I threw mine out, too. Ben

Memories of RDU. I got on with them in 1998, after they moved to Raleigh, and went down with the ship when they went under in 2003. Best job I ever had. Mr Ed, good catch on the shape of the Monogram 450s. I never noticed that! Their 1/48 tanks have the straight taper, too. Luigi, I'm not familiar with the Arma tanks. I don't keep up with the 1/72 kits and aftermarket as well as I should. Ben

I think the only 335s included in any kit were some in the terrible 1/48 ESCI F-100D kit. It is surprising Monogram didn't, since their F-100D represents a late-life aircraft. I like that 450-gal tank! Is it a resin aftermarket part? For folks who want an alternative, you could also use a set from an F-101, and add some fins and pylons from styrene. And, since we're on the subject of 1/72 F-100 drop tanks, the Hasegawa F-100D kit includes a set of the 200-gal banana tanks carried on the inboard pylons. Cheers! Ben

The tanks are the shorter 275-gal version, and are the correct length for those. For the 335-gal tanks that started appearing around 1964, they are easily modified by adding a 28" (scale) plug at the panel line at the leading edge of the pylon. That's how they modified the real tanks. The Trumpeter 1/72 kits would be a good source for slats for the ESCI/AMT/Revell kits, but that's about it. Ben

As a professional writer, pilot, and Phantom enthusiast, I'd be happy to preview and edit their product descriptions. It would just cost them a kit per job. Ben

The left Yellowhammer sheet is the original release with the correct yellow. The mustard colored sheet is Cutting Edge's sheet where they re-released it and got the colors wrong. It should be FS13538 yellow (known to modelers as "Chrome Yellow"). Here is a great article on BA colors: Tailhook Topics: Blue Angel Blue and Gold Ben

I want to like Discovery, and I'm not one of those "they've strayed from canon!" types, but it's like they haven't made any attempt to try to keep things remotely within the Trek universe. Why redo the Klingons so drastically? And there was zero chemistry between the actors. The actors in The Orville seemed comfortable with each other and their roles right out of the gate. I'm enjoying that show. Maybe they should have given Seth MacFarlane the reigns to Discovery. Ben

I'm pretty sure those are the same 450-gal Fletcher tanks carried by the F-101 and F-100. They at least look exactly the same, although they wouldn't have been swappable between the types. The dimensions of these tanks were: Diameter: 29.00 inches; Length: 224.71 inches. If they are the same, you can rob a set from a Monogram F-101. HTH. Ben

I think you'll be okay, but get a second and third opinion from others on this forum, just to be sure. I haven't tried it myself, but I've read that fully cured Future won't be damaged by lacquers or enamels. Ben

Hi, You'll need to use an acrylic/water-based wash over enamel. If you use a solvent-based wash, it will damage the underlying paint. I learned that lesson the hard way! See below for an exception. There is no need to apply that first flat coat you mention. Just hit it with a clear gloss coat to prep it for decals. You don't mention what you plan to use for the clear coat, but an enamel or lacquer-based clear coat, like Tamiya or Testors, might damage the underlying paint. Some folks, including me (once or twice, long ago), use these with success, but I prefer to use an acrylic, so it doesn't harm the paint if you accidentally apply it too heavily. Craft stores sell acrylic clear coats in rattle cans, or you can get some to spray with an airbrush, if you prefer. Future Floor Polish, or whatever they're calling now, sprayed right out of the bottle, makes a great clear gloss coat that is pretty foolproof to apply and gives you a tough finish to work with. You can even use an enamel-based wash over it. Once you've applied your decals to your shiny model, you can hit it with another clear gloss coat to protect it for your wash. Let that dry, apply your wash, let that dry, and then hit it with a clear flat coat. I prefer Microscale's acrylic clear flat, but I'm old fashioned. There are many other good ones from just about every company that makes model paint. HTH. Ben

Interesting! I used to work out of Kinston back in the '80s to '91 and would often drive up to Goldsboro, grab a BBQ sandwich from Wilbur's, and head over to those roads east of the base to watch airplanes. I guess I need to dig up my photos and find out what jet was the first City of Goldsboro, back in '90(?). This starting to give me the urge to build another Revell F-15E! Ben

That's pretty wild that 186 is still flying long after I stopped! Wasn't it named Spirit of Goldsboro? I just happened to be plane spotting from the fence across the runway from the ramp the day it arrived at SJAFB. Ben