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Ben Brown

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Everything posted by Ben Brown

  1. Here’s a drawing you can resize and print as a pattern. The inboard pylon is the top one, to the right of the finned drop tank. LINK If you Google “f-100 3 view,” there are a lot of drawings that show cross sections if you need them. There’s even a plan for a stick and tissue YF-100. Ben
  2. I’d be up for multiple sets if you ever decide to produce them. Those aux door locks will be tough. Maybe a photo etched part? Ben
  3. Thanks for posting this! I have some time in the Diamond Dog and the Beechjet, so this and the A&A King Air 200 are making it more and more difficult for me to avoid getting into 1/72. 😄 Ben
  4. @RichB63 Kazan makes some beautiful parts! I’m surprised nobody like Quickboost ever released a set of just the actuators with the down locks installed. Perhaps @JeffreyK will consider making some? Ben
  5. Thanks for posting this, Gene! For those who want to make one of these, here’s a link to some closeups. Be sure you include all of the stencils on it! 😄 LINK OP, as Gene said, there are a lot of variations for the RBF pins and locks. The ones you’ll definitely need are the gear down locks that clamp over the hydraulic actuators, aux air intake safety pins, and weapons pylon pins. I did a quick Google search for F-4 safety pins locations but didn’t come up with much beyond the gear down locks. Why has no aftermarket company ever released those? Ben
  6. I’d definitely be up for some reversers! And maybe a 31 conversion to go with them. Ben
  7. All right! Phantom nerd stuff to go with my coffee! 😍 Yes, the ailerons droop as hydraulic pressure bleeds off. Flaps up/slats in. They operate in tandem. The Germans would often park their F-4Fs with slats out/flaps down, but the USAF usually didn’t. The only time you’ll see slats out with the flaps up is in flight. The aux air intakes are pinned open to prevent them from snapping shut and taking somebody’s hand off. From ARC forum denizen and Phormer Phantom Phixer @Scott R Wilson: “[The] landing gear handle controls the doors. I believe exces
  8. I use Washi tape. It’s pretty flexible and if you cut it into 1 or 2 mm strips, you can get it to go around some surprisingly tight curves. You can buy 10 rolls from Amazon. LINK Ben
  9. Based on other photos, it looks like they used FS 34092 Dark Green from the A-10’s Europe 1 camouflage days instead of FS 34079. The F-16C in SEA camo looks they used the correct dark green. The dark green in this year’s Memphis Belle demo jet looks a little off, too. Ben
  10. SCOUT712 is correct, the kit wings are the thick type, so you can only build one of the last 10 (12?) RF-4Bs out of the box, but it’s perfect for an RF-4C. Hypersonic makes some great unslotted stabilators that fit the Hasegawa kits. The fuselage is more RF-4E; the lower aft fuselage is cut back for the longer nozzles. If you want to get picky, you’ll need to extend that natural metal part aft ~2 mm. Here is Tommy Thomason’s blog post on F-4s and J79s. Both the B and C nose gear doors are included. Both long and short afterburner nozzles are include
  11. Looks like the only 1/72 decals for the 460th are in the old Hasegawa kit, but they’re for a regular line jet. There are several options in 1/48, if you want to battle the Monogram kit. It does build into an impressive model. Ben
  12. Their cross reference shows LP-56 to be the same as XF-89. LINK Ben
  13. Hi All, Not to get too anal enthusiastic about it, but 71-0237 was the first F-4E with the internal wing reinforcement. 🙂 Bill, beautiful F-4E and F-104C!!! You're making it very hard to resist the Meng kit. Ben
  14. I need to find an excuse to get out that way. I flew out of there in the ‘80s, before the Global Transpark thing started. I probably wouldn’t recognize the place now. Ben
  15. Anyone get any pics of the Draken International Mirage F.1 that was supposed to be there? I would’ve loved to get up close to one. Ben
  16. I’m enjoying building my -700, too! It’s a very nice little kit. Ben
  17. Good to know. The stuff I was getting from the paint section of Home Depot was originally labeled denatured alcohol but was relabeled as fuel a couple of years ago. Ben
  18. I think they’re still waiting for a 3-D scan of @Gene K so they can include the figure with the decals for “Sandy.” 😉 Ben
  19. The stuff sold as fuel is denatured alcohol. I asked a while back and it’s labeled “Fuel” to keep people from trying to drink it. Ben
  20. Can you buy the appropriate sprues from the manufacturer? Ben
  21. Denatured alcohol will remove Mr Color without affecting the plastic. I’ve stripped entire models with it. That said, I have had one instance where the alcohol left a slight haze on a clear part. This was easily fixed by polishing it and dipping it in Future. Ben
  22. Those fuselage stripes are simple enough that you could make your own with red and white decal film. They seem to be the only unique parts in FG-907’s markings. The red is most likely Insignia Red. You can confirm with Kursad (Caracal’s proprietor) in his forum on this site. I’d get solid sheets of red and white trim film from Microscale and cut my own stripes. The sheets of stripes may not have enough of the correct width. The Caracal sheet has enough extra numbers to piece together the serial and buzz numbers. Ben
  23. Wow, time sure does fly! That was a fun trip. I wonder if the then-wing commander still has my Tamiya F-15E? Sadly, I think Hawk and the other Tuskegee Airmen in the photos have passed away. Ben
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