RotorheadTX

Wow Mike, that looks exceptional!! I'm REALLY looking forward to seeing it all finished up! You go guy!! Tony

I'm in for "Fourths" - I just received a packet of stuff from Geoff, and he threw in a bunch of sweet freebies. You really do meet the nicest people on ARC........ :D

Jim hooked me up with a copy of the Tigercat in Action; just what I wanted to help fix up a nostalgia-build of the old Monogram 1/72nd scale kit. We need more guys like Jim in the world! Cheers! Tony in Texas

Just got my book and decals, and couldn't be happier. Thanks a million!! Tony

I have just completed very pleasant dealings with Neu in Hungary and Bodo in Poland - a pair of truly great ARCers!! Super to deal with, and heartily recommended! Tony Morgan Austin, Texas

I had a similar experience previously; worked well on some decals, not well at all on others. Some decals looked fine at application, then showed lots of small silvering bubbles after a flat-coat. I replaced the bottle and saw a marked improvement in performance. I think the stuff does break down over time, and spending a few dollars on a new bottle will save you lots of hate and discontent, and may even save you from messing up a good model. My 2 cents. Tony

Thanks Sameer!! Always nice to receive a good word.

I use a modified plastic pipette tube to draw the glue up into the glass part of the tube. Testors sells them for mixing/measuring paint - just trim the tip back until it is just large enough to go over the open end of the glass tube but still makes a decent seal. As for cleaning, I found some very fine wire that is small enough to pass up into the end of the metal tube. kind of like keeping a pin in the super-glue bottle, only I don't leave it in the Touch-n-Flow when I'm not using it. I'd be leery of bending the metal tube for risk of crimping it, and ruining the flow. But hey, if it w

I've got one, but haven't tried it out yet. It will probably do fine for goofing around and light work. If you are a maniac like Pierre Greutert, then you will probably want to buy something tougher and more tightly toleranced. The system is modular, and bulds up out of many separate pieces - lots of places for alignment and 'truing' issues to pop up if one isn't careful. Mostly aluminum extrusions and ABS/GRP plastic bits, which I am sure allow flexing if pushed too hard. I found a very inexpensive Chinese knock-off on EBAY which has some compatible pieces. Do not let them fool you - it is

That's why I love ARC so much!! Thanks to Higg and Azie for the scoop! BTW, Higg, that is a VERY impressive undertaking on your part. I consider myself very lucky to have the Hasegawa kit of the Hind-A in my chosen scale. Kudos to you for the DIY effort!!! I cannot wait to see the finished product!

Sam is a good guy, alright. I'll also speak up for him. Builds good helos too! (But I don't think he has a cat........points off.)

I second MadMike - Gareth is A-OK!! :-) Cheers! Tony

Glen hooked me up with a home-made S-58T nose conversion. Something I've been seeking for ages. Thanks!!

I'm with Madmike on this one - use Tamiya (or any other) primer, and you'll have no trouble. I've had limited success with applying Vallejo directly to plastic, but the metal wargame miniatures that I have primed and then painted are a joy. I didn't wash the plastic of the parts I've tried painting so far, so I've been 'rewarded" with flaking and chipping. If I had primed it, I am sure I wouldn't be having this trouble now. One thing for sure, the Vallejo paints have made brush-painting enjoyable again - no stinky enamel and thinner fumes, and best of all, no brush marks!! Good luck!! Tony

Gareth, Thanks for the kind words. Much appreciated. (And you've STILL got the best avatar on ARC!!) :wacko: Cheers! Tony