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Dr Fester

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About Dr Fester

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    Full Blown Model Geek

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  • Location
    Somerset, UK
  • Interests
    Bikes, Planes, and modelling!

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  1. Ray, you are a star! Lots of reading there and most of the info I require for sure. Many thanks Doc :lol:
  2. Hi all, This is a long shot but would any of you know where I can get a stencil set for the UH-60 . I require a set of drawings if possible not the decal sheet itself. Any help appreciated. Doc
  3. Thx mate, here is a little update for you. Made a start detailing the engines and painting, base silver then a black oil wash for the cylinders. The rear crankcase painted sky grey and the front the very striking blue for this bird. Various bits and bobs still to add to the engine before installation. Although far from ready I couldn't wait to check the motors and wiring still worked before getting too far assembling them. So using wire, glue, tubing, tape and anything else I could find I quickly cobbled the port engine together and fired her up. Prop is spinning way off centre but
  4. Only wish it did Unc! No jig found in my kit so I had to take a deep breath and drill by hand. Remember to post some pics of your Superfort. Both motors now mounted in the engines and just making the shafts for mounting to the props, with any luck I should get some spinning props soon. Cheers Doc
  5. Awesome project Pete, looking good. Doc
  6. Many thanks Kostucha, appreciate your comments. A little progress with the motors now, been scratching my head about the installation but think I have a solution now. The motors supplied by Dynamic in the kit are tiny with an 8mm diameter, difficulty is drilling out an opening in the resin engine for the motor to sit. Well difficult if you have no access to a machining lathe to true everything up! Anyhow I took the plunge and with a small drill bit first drilled right through from the front of the engine as true as possible with a hand drill. Then progressively opened out the hole from
  7. Sorry for not replying until now, been busy at work. To answer your question the foil is surprisingly forgiving and I find burnishing with a q-tip working in small sections best. Also if you do make a mess of it you only have to remove the piece your working on and try again. Believe me that has happened MANY times! Just working on installing the resin engines and finding the best way to connect motor to prop. More soon Doc
  8. Thx for your comments guys. Should be posting more pics soon. Cheers Doc
  9. Hi peeps, Been a while since an update with the build and progress is slow. I have installed all the wiring and electronics within the fuselage and closed it up. Foiled the whole of underside and added rivets so that can be left alone until the finer details are added later. Spent this week foiling the inboard wings and made a start adding the rivet detail, some recessed and some raised. Some real compound curves to ease the foil around but not too bad, when this is complete I can make a start adding the resin engines and incorporating the motors! More soon. Doc
  10. Just of the schemes I was thinking of doing Dave....yeah right! For some reason I thought it lived in the US. Cheers Doc
  11. Not had much time for modelling of late but thought I would give an update of the work done to the main gear etc. She now has legs. Not a straightforward job as wiring through the wheels had to be made. New hubs made from sprue and a pair of humongous calipers scratchbuilt and added. The axle was manufactured using brass rod and although toying with idea of using the spare metal Trumpeter gear legs, these were too far from accurate so the kit ones used. Another decision was using either the True Details bulged wheels or kit parts. Apart from the bulge being waaaay too much I th
  12. I hear you Learstang, it's incredible the wingspan of this beast in 48th. Still not sure where it will be stored! Cheers Doc
  13. A quick update on the Gooney Bird build. My attention has moved towards the wheel wells now and scratchbuilding detail within. The kit parts are pretty devoid of any detail apart from some light wire indentations on the surface. To enable full detailing a fake wheel well was manufactured by taking styrene sheet and surrounding a cylinder of the correct size, in my case a socket which has a good range of sizes. This had boiling water poured over and left submerged for a few minutes, removed and run under a cold tap and voila x 2 . After much fiddling, swearing and dry fitting I install
  14. Thx Pete, We use conformable vinyl at work for vehicles which have very curved surfaces. Heated with a hair dryer it can even be applied to spheres (if your good) and can be stretched. Most Sign shops stock it and they might even have some off cuts for free. If you have any problems tracking some down let me know and I'll pop some in the post for you to try out. In fact if I attempted this livery I would definitely use conformable! Cheers Doc
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