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Dr Fester

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Everything posted by Dr Fester

  1. Ray, you are a star! Lots of reading there and most of the info I require for sure. Many thanks Doc :lol:
  2. Hi all, This is a long shot but would any of you know where I can get a stencil set for the UH-60 . I require a set of drawings if possible not the decal sheet itself. Any help appreciated. Doc
  3. Thx mate, here is a little update for you. Made a start detailing the engines and painting, base silver then a black oil wash for the cylinders. The rear crankcase painted sky grey and the front the very striking blue for this bird. Various bits and bobs still to add to the engine before installation. Although far from ready I couldn't wait to check the motors and wiring still worked before getting too far assembling them. So using wire, glue, tubing, tape and anything else I could find I quickly cobbled the port engine together and fired her up. Prop is spinning way off centre but
  4. Only wish it did Unc! No jig found in my kit so I had to take a deep breath and drill by hand. Remember to post some pics of your Superfort. Both motors now mounted in the engines and just making the shafts for mounting to the props, with any luck I should get some spinning props soon. Cheers Doc
  5. Awesome project Pete, looking good. Doc
  6. Many thanks Kostucha, appreciate your comments. A little progress with the motors now, been scratching my head about the installation but think I have a solution now. The motors supplied by Dynamic in the kit are tiny with an 8mm diameter, difficulty is drilling out an opening in the resin engine for the motor to sit. Well difficult if you have no access to a machining lathe to true everything up! Anyhow I took the plunge and with a small drill bit first drilled right through from the front of the engine as true as possible with a hand drill. Then progressively opened out the hole from
  7. Sorry for not replying until now, been busy at work. To answer your question the foil is surprisingly forgiving and I find burnishing with a q-tip working in small sections best. Also if you do make a mess of it you only have to remove the piece your working on and try again. Believe me that has happened MANY times! Just working on installing the resin engines and finding the best way to connect motor to prop. More soon Doc
  8. Thx for your comments guys. Should be posting more pics soon. Cheers Doc
  9. Hi peeps, Been a while since an update with the build and progress is slow. I have installed all the wiring and electronics within the fuselage and closed it up. Foiled the whole of underside and added rivets so that can be left alone until the finer details are added later. Spent this week foiling the inboard wings and made a start adding the rivet detail, some recessed and some raised. Some real compound curves to ease the foil around but not too bad, when this is complete I can make a start adding the resin engines and incorporating the motors! More soon. Doc
  10. Just of the schemes I was thinking of doing Dave....yeah right! For some reason I thought it lived in the US. Cheers Doc
  11. Not had much time for modelling of late but thought I would give an update of the work done to the main gear etc. She now has legs. Not a straightforward job as wiring through the wheels had to be made. New hubs made from sprue and a pair of humongous calipers scratchbuilt and added. The axle was manufactured using brass rod and although toying with idea of using the spare metal Trumpeter gear legs, these were too far from accurate so the kit ones used. Another decision was using either the True Details bulged wheels or kit parts. Apart from the bulge being waaaay too much I th
  12. I hear you Learstang, it's incredible the wingspan of this beast in 48th. Still not sure where it will be stored! Cheers Doc
  13. A quick update on the Gooney Bird build. My attention has moved towards the wheel wells now and scratchbuilding detail within. The kit parts are pretty devoid of any detail apart from some light wire indentations on the surface. To enable full detailing a fake wheel well was manufactured by taking styrene sheet and surrounding a cylinder of the correct size, in my case a socket which has a good range of sizes. This had boiling water poured over and left submerged for a few minutes, removed and run under a cold tap and voila x 2 . After much fiddling, swearing and dry fitting I install
  14. Thx Pete, We use conformable vinyl at work for vehicles which have very curved surfaces. Heated with a hair dryer it can even be applied to spheres (if your good) and can be stretched. Most Sign shops stock it and they might even have some off cuts for free. If you have any problems tracking some down let me know and I'll pop some in the post for you to try out. In fact if I attempted this livery I would definitely use conformable! Cheers Doc
  15. Yes it was the part that caused the most headaches, glad that job is behind me now! Cheers Doc
  16. Both really, filled the sink with hot water a few kettles of boiling. Plunged the tail into it for a minute then massaged it straight. Doc
  17. Only the tail needed some hot bath straightening, the wings are a different matter! Doc
  18. A little more progress with the tail now and having cut the elevators off I have added the tailplane to the C-47. The rudder & elevators will be added later when I am ready to spray the underside of the aircraft white along with control surfaces. Top and bottom of the tail have been foiled and now complete. Foiling as actually overlapped and riveted unlike the rest of the fuselage which is butt jointed. Next to tackle will be the MLG and installing the rest of the wiring. More soon..... Doc
  19. A little update on the GooneyBird; Eventually got the the whole fuselage foiled, less the joints to be foiled when assembled. To say its a tedious job would be the mother of all understatements, damn Alclad seems like such an easy option now! Anyhow a few pics; Rudder hinges have been added and rudder itself requires a re-enforcing plate adding before the whole thing gets sprayed white. The 2 added windows towards the tail for some reason I have mis-aligned due to me going from another reference photo and guessing. The 2 windows should be aligned but I am leaving it for now. S
  20. Seriously Tim, from your in-flight photos they could easily pass for the real deal. Superb Have to commend you on some of the most realistic 1/32 pilot figures I have seen. Cheers Doc
  21. Thanks for putting us out of our misery Tim, still seems like a pretty poor gunship with 14 M1 rifles poking out of the windows! As for heritage of this particular C-47/DC-3; HR-ATH (cn 6102) Ex USAF 41-18696 (1942), Lansa XA-FIY (1954), Sahsa XA-SAH (1954), Sahsa HR-SAH (1961), Since (2003) HR-ATH has been privately owned. As for what constitutes a DC3 or C-47 apart from simply a military guise, I was thinking more of the split cargo door instead of cabin door. Which is why I chose the Revell kit of the C-47, the Gooney in question has a split cargo door; Cheers Doc
  22. Thanks mate :huh: Slow progress with the foiling but I will post some pics soon. Cheers Doc
  23. Good call Phantom, I did have reservations about removing the circle marks but can only go from the photo references I have;- An original C-47 in D-Day livery showing the very prominent window circles; Then a closeup of the Gooney I'm making; Which you can see the marks are not present or if they are I can't see them! To me they look like a window vent system which can be used by the paratroops so maybe a different kind of system is used for passenger/cargo transport. Cheers Doc
  24. A little more progress to report. As we are blessed with some sunshine today I thought a few pics outside might show off the shine a little more. I'm making slow progress foiling toward the rear of the fuselage, leaving panels joining wings etc to be completed when it all comes together. A few dodgy rivet lines but I can live with that, trying to following the reference pics I have as close as possible. Also using some conformable white vinyl from work for the nose, this stuff is used for applying to vehicles and is very flexible almost like a thick cling film. Just cut a piece sligh
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