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zeus60

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Everything posted by zeus60

  1. I usually use ammonia to clean my paint brushes after using acrylics, and it works very well. However, I've always used synthetic brushes. I am now going to try using a sable brush, a Winsor-Newton Series 7. I'm hesitant to use the ammonia, as it may damage the sable, and these brushes are quite pricey. Do any of you use a sable brush with acrylics? If so, how do you clean it? Just soap and water? By 'soap', do you mean hand soap? Simple Green perhaps? Or something else? Also, I will be using both hobby acrylics (Polly Scale, maybe Tamiya) and artist-type (Winsor-Newton Galeria, or L
  2. I've had good luck using Windex to both thin and clean up after Polly Scale. I also use it to clean up after spraying Tamiya acrylics, but I don't thin the Tamiya with it. I use Tamiya's thinner.
  3. I think he's just looking for the lids, not bottles of paint.
  4. On the decal, the vertical stripe is, indeed, blue.
  5. That's where I got them. When I emailed George (the guy at arawasi), he only took a couple of days to reply. Maybe you should ping him again.
  6. Thanks for the responses. Rudolph, I think my link was to your image! Stacey
  7. I got a set of decals for a captured N1K1J "George". The decals are from Flying Papa's, and the accompanying text is in Japanese. I can't seem to find a website for the company. The plane looks to have a natural metal finish. But I would assume it was painted when captured, so would the American Technical Air Intelligence Unit (who apparently prepared it for testing) have stripped the existing paint? That seems like a lot of work, when you could just paint over it. Is the plane in a NMF? Here is a link to a photo of the plane in question. Here is a link to a drawing of the plane. Any
  8. Thanks for the tips, guys. I suppose I should have just tried water before asking. <_<
  9. How do folks clean sanding sticks, assuming that you do clean them? My get clogged up pretty quickly. Can I just use soap and water? TIA. Stacey
  10. I believe cellulose thinner is what we call lacquer thinner, available at any hardware store.
  11. Memory, shmemory, I was researching thinners and came across some of your posts via the search function.
  12. Bails, I've read in your previous post that you used Ditzler Duracryl DTL 876 Lacquer Thinner. Is the DT885 better? Also, you've mentioned you used odorless mineral spirits to clean up. I'm assuming the lacquer thinner does a better job. I haven't had too much luck cleaning up with odorless mineral spirits. Stacey
  13. Sorry for the double post. Moderators, can you delete this thread?
  14. I was in Home Depot yesterday, and I spotted a paint thinner I had not seen before. It's called White Formula Paint Thinner and is made by Klean-Strip. It comes in a white plastic bottle that contains 120 ounces (slightly less than a gallon). It claims to be low odor and non-flammable, but can be used anywhere traditional paint thinner can be used. According to the label, it is colored white but does not affect the color of dried paint. Has anyone tried it? I'd like to have a low odor cleaner for enamels, and I've found that odorless mineral spirits don't clean that well. Here is a link
  15. If it says "Floquil" on the bottle, it is enamel. Polly Scale is the equivalent acrylic, but it does not say "Floquil" on the bottle. Both are good paints.
  16. I am also in the process of building that kit, and appreciate everyone's advice.
  17. And that type of workbench is just what I was looking for. How long is your bench? I noted that Lowe's sells kitchen countertops in 4, 6 and 10 foot lengths. I like the file cabinet idea too, as I could use the storage. And thanks again to David for starting this thread. Stacey
  18. I also appreciate all the info, as I will be building a late D from my M kit at some point.
  19. Here's an earlier thread on this topic. It mentions some other solutions.
  20. I think I've also heard that soaking them in Coca-Cola for a while will do the trick. Haven't tried it myself though.
  21. I've noticed a couple of folks use Simple Green to clean up after using acrylics. I have a couple of questions. First, can you use it with painbrushes? I use ammonia, which works very well, but I like the smell of Simple Green better. I'll bet my lungs do too. :D Second, and this is probably a silly one, do you use it straight from the bottle? I believe that it is supposed to be thinned when used for its intended purpose. TIA. Stacey
  22. I've used the Universal Thinner with Polly Scale without any problem, but I used only about 1 part thinner to 3 or 4 parts paint.
  23. In my case, it is difficult to sit on the shorter edge. Also, I was hoping to be able to face the corner, but the leg of the long edge gets in the way, so the corner area is not terribly useful. These issues might not apply if (1) the table wasn't quite so deep (30 inches, about 75 cm) or (2) the shorter edge was longer (it's only 30 inches wide). In addition, the room is carpeted, so it would difficult to roll from one spot to another. (I say "would be" because my chair does not have wheels.) I noticed that a number of other modelers have L configurations and don't seem to have any probl
  24. Okay, here is what my work area looks like today. Even though I've only had the two tables for a few weeks, I've already learned I don't like the L. I'm going to make a single bench, eight feet long, against the wall, and mount a paint rack to the space on the right.
  25. According the RAF color chart on the IPMS Stockholm site, RAF Dark Slate Gray is approximately FS 34096, which is a green. FS 34096 is Model Master enamel 2027 and is named Dark Green (B-52). As a matter of fact, this FAQ on j-aircraft.com says that this color is an exact match for Mitsubishi interior green. So, yes, I think it is a shade of green.
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