zeus60

This picture was taken a while ago. It looks a little different now, with two tables in an L. I'll post an updated picture this weekend. Terry, that is an awesome display cabinet, and the contents look fantastic!

Nice to see a Binks! I had one thirty years ago when I was a teenager. I never did know what happened to it, until my brother happened to mention to me that he had it (and has since returned it).

I should have listed that as an option! :D

I have two gravity-feed airbrushes (Iwata Revolutions), and I have a question. Which do you add to the cup first: the paint or the thinner? I add the paint first, but I've noticed that it is sometimes difficult to make sure the thinner gets all the way to the botton of the cup. If it doesn't, the first bit of paint is rather thick. I've had this happen with both acrylics and enamels. So, which do you add first? TIA. Stacey

And I chuckle every time I see smithery's avatar!

As have I. Just be sure to let the paint cure (not merely dry) before putting one type of paint over another. I have never used lacquers though.

Thanks for the tip.

Thanks. That is what I was thinking.

How long do you usually wait after applying the first decal before applying the second?

George, what do you thin the Boyd's primer with? Stacey

Fortress, that is a clever contraption. I'll have to put something like that together. Anthony's idea is even simpler, but since I build WWII planes, there is usually no suitable exhaust. Thanks for everyone's replies.

On the last plane I finished, I noticed that the decals on the wings turned out better than the ones on the fuselage. I use Micro Set and Sol. It occurred to me that since the fuselage is a vertical surface, the Micro Set is probably running off before I apply the decal (insert smiley for "duh" here). My question is, do you turn the model on its side prior to applying decals to the fuselage? If so, do you have some kind of jig to hold it so both your hands are free? I need both hands to apply decals. TIA, Stacey

Drilling a hole in a can of spray paint - which is under pressure - does not seem like a wise idea. Is the idea if you drill in the top, propellant (rather than paint) will come out of the can?

Hi, all. I purchased an Iwata cleaning station a couple of weeks ago. It seems simple enough, but I have what may be a silly question. Should I put anything in the reservoir (for want of a better term), such as paper towels, cloth, etc? Or do you just spray your cleaner into it? TIA.

I have heard of good results with using the Acryl thinner to thin PollyScale. As a matter of fact, I think it shows the PollyScale logo on the front as one of the brands that you can use the thinner with. I have also heard good things about adding a couple of drops of flow aid. However, I have had very good results using Liquitex airbrush medium to thin the paint. It mixes very smooth and makes clean up much easier. The airbrush medium is a combination of flow aid, retarder and acrylic base.

I used the term "blu-tack" as a generic term for sticky putty, much as people use the word "Kleenex" to mean facial tissue. I use some yellow stuff I found in the stationery section at Wal-Mart. I've also see it at the 99 cent store. Sorry for the confusion.

You can also use Liquitex Airbrush Medium to thin Polly Scale (and MM Acryl) as well. It contains a retarder as well as flow aid. I'm guessing the Acryl thinner has both as well.

Coast Airbrush in Anaheim has a full line of airbrushes (Badger, Iwata, Paasche, probably more), including parts. They also carry Tamiya paints. If you need to pick up a spare needle or some other part, you can save yourself shipping. I just thought I'd mention this in case someone is in need of something...

Thanks for the info. I did use it for my P-39.

Yes. Mineral spirits is another name for paint thinner.

At first glance I misread "pennis". :blink:

Hi, all. I'm thinking of using blu-tack to hold the nose weight in an Academy 1/72 P-39. Can you leave blu-tack in a finished model, or will it eventually attack the plastic? Thanks.

I live in Tustin, and yes, it is close to the Nats. Funny thing is, even though I knew the shop was there, I've never been in it. I walked by it once and it didn't even look like a hobby shop.

White ensign models has an extensive line of Japanese colors, including a blue-black. I have not tried their paint personally, but they have a good reputation.

I believe it has to be acetone-based nail polish remover, not acetone-free.