zeus60

Thanks.

Is the registration packet mailed to you? Or do you pick it up at the convention?

If the paint is acrylic, you might try using OxyClean to clean it out. I saw a post on another web site that claimed this method works well, although I haven't tried it.

Well, that would explain it. It just seemed rather incongruous. Thanks for the info.

I picked up Academy's 1/72 SPAD XIII, kit 1623, from Lucky Model last month. Upon looking at the instructions, I noticed that the photo of the completed model shows inverted swastikas on the fuselage side and top. There is no photo of the bottom, so maybe there's one there too. The swastikas do not appear on the box art. Has anyone else seen this? I wonder how it happened.

When I used them, I did not have the adhesion problems that others seem to have. I did use an enamel primer first, maybe that had something to do with it. But I was able to mask over the MM Acryl without any of it lifting up.

Hi, Diego. Welcome to ARC! Regarding your question, I would not use anything labelled "cleaner" to thin paint. Cleaner is intended to remove paint, so it might very well prevent the paint from adhering to a surface. I've only used MM Acryl once, but I don't think I had to thin it at all and it sprayed fine. The general consensus is that PollyScale is a better paint. If Tamiya acrylic thinner is available in Chile, you can use that to thin PollyScale. Oh, and yes, distilled water is the correct term. Good luck!

Thanks, Don. Stacey

Hi, all. This is my first nats (I just joined IPMS a few monhs ago). I'm curious as to what registration gets you. I'm assuming you must register to attend a seminar, and maybe to visit the vendor room. Anything else? I'm really not interested in attending the banquet. Thanks for the info. Stacey

I read something a while back on hobbyfanatics.com about using OxyClean to remove acrylic paint. The guy used it to remove paint from old models and also to clean out Tamiya paint jars so they could be reused. I don't know if OxyClean is sold in Europe, or what it might be called there, but it's another option for you to investigate.

Can you cut acrylic/plexiglass on a table saw? Do you need a special blade? I'm thinking plexiglass is rather brittle and wouldn't cut well. Also, can you drill with an ordinary power drill? Do you need any special kind of bit?

1/48 Monogram He111 from Ebay. 23 (!) models from Lucky Model (curse their 4th anniversay sale! )

Hope this isn't a dumb question. I've got an Iwata compressor with a moisture trap. The instructions say that to empty the trap, you should remove the screw on the bottom and start the compressor. How long should I let it run? I've been using this compressor for about a year without emptying the trap. I live in a rather arid climate (southern California). Occasionally I will see some moisture splattered on the inside of the trap. Recently I've had what I believe is moisture come out the airbrush, so I'm thinking I should empty it. I tried letting it run for few seconds, but nothing ca

I use Painter's Touch flat white in a rattle can (from Home Depot) as a primer. As Stan pointed out, primer is more important with acrylics than enamels. But it will help you see any defects in the surface before your final coat. I don't prime cockpits or wheels or spinners or anything like that, just the outer surface. HTH.

I'm kind of curious about this Floetrol. Do you add the drop to the bottle? Do you use it when airbrushing or only for brush painting? Does this work with other acrylics (Tamiya, Polly Scale)? Sorry to pester - but it sounds like a very useful product.

I'd recommend adding a little Tamiya thinner. Although PollyScale is probably sprayable right from the bottle, the Tamiya thinner has a retarder which will keep it from drying too quickly. I have not had good luck using Windex. HTH. Stacey

A big box yesterday: Academy 1/72 P-40E Academy 1/72 Fw190A with Kubelwagen Academy 1/48 P-47D Dragon 1/48 Fw190A Hasegawa 1/72 Fw190 Hasegawa 1/48 P-47D Tamiya 1/72 Fw190A-3 Tamiya 1/72 P-47D Tamiya 1/48 P-47D bubbletop Tamiya 1/48 Fw190A-8 All from Lucky Model. Can you tell what my favorite planes are? ;)

I can't swear to it, but I believe someone (Eduard?) makes masks for hinomarus.

1/72 Hasegawa Ki-45 Nick 1/32 Hasegawa Me163 Komet A jar of Tamiya Deep Green. A tin each of Humbrol 88 and 101. The paint is to try to get RAAF Foilage Green. (IPMS Stockholm says equal parts Hu 88 and Hu 101; my eyesight says Tamiya Deep Green.) Stacey

I also have the Otaki P-47 and can get you instructions if you need them.

I had the same question.

Tamiya thinner works beautifully. Just add a few drops to the paint cup. Tamiya thinner has a retarder which keeps the paint from drying too fast.

That looks like something I could use. I don't have little ones, but I'd like to be able to lock up the desk without putting anything away.

I wasn't even considering the use of a kitchen counter - I just wanted to give an idea of the depth. But now you've got me thinking. Maybe I'll venture into the kitchen section the next time I'm at Home Depot.

Here is a photo of mine. Like a lot of guys, I use a table intended for computer use. Like most such tables, it is 30 inches (about 75 cm) deep. This is fine for computer use where you have a monitor, but I've found it a bit too deep for my use. I plan on getting a new bench that is 24 inches (about 60 cm) deep. This is also the standard depth of a kitchen counter in the US. That will make it much easier to reach anything at the back of the bench. By the way, here is a thread on another modeling forum showing workbenches. Hope this helps.