Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums

John Adelmann

Members
  • Content Count

    89
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About John Adelmann

  • Rank
    Canopy Polisher

Recent Profile Visitors

4,136 profile views
  1. I appreciate this update. Much obliged, sir. JA
  2. From what I gather, the sheet #40 is all Hebrew, but it was first released in 2004, which is an eternity in the building world. JA
  3. I don't think that includes all the stencils splattered over this bird. This #40 is all the tiny stencils that actually are printed in little groupings so you can apply several at one time to keep your own self from going blind. Unless I miss my guess, the new set is more major markings of all Phantoms than stencils JA
  4. Greetings all - I am in need of the extensive set of stencils made by Isradecals. It's product #40, for the 1/32 F-4 Phantom. Looked on Ebay and places where Isradecals are sold, but no joy. Anyone in the ARC sphere looking to part with a set they have? Or, are there other places to purchase them?
  5. No wrapped around the axle - Yesss SUH! Thanks for the encouragement! JA
  6. What really fries me is that there are so many variations in colors and shades. You are saying it's "Have Glass" all over - and I am not challenging or criticizing that by any means - but simply Google images for the F-35 and see how many different variations there are. Michael Benolkin of Cybermodeler Online has shots from his private stash - up close and personal images that look much different from other video images on You Tube of taxiing planes all over the world. Some have lighter patches by the intakes, others don't, for example. But I have already called in an order for the "Have Glass" bottles from that new start-up, MRP, otherwise known as "Mr. Paint," before the Japanese paint maker sat him down for a talk on branding. That said, I appreciate your input and will blame you if this kit doesn't turn out like I'd like it to - HAH! Hopefully my client will love it as I will make it look as good as I can by dumping the kit masks and doing the masking the old fashioned way. Note: those Italeri masks don't fit well, and have way too much glue on them. Pull them off the wrong way and you'll leave goobers behind that will either have to be sanded off, which will remove the paint, or you'll need Goo-Gone or thinner to remove the glue and the paint at the same time. Welcome to our world, eh? JA
  7. Much obliged, my good man. May your Thanksgiving have no tofu in it whatsoever. JA
  8. OK, guys, I have been away from ARC for quite a while as life got in the way. But I'm back with a question that no one has been able to answer. The issue is the color call-outs for the 1/32 Italeri F-35. Many will agree that FS 36118 (topside F-16 standard dark gray) just isn't the right color (as per the Italeri instructions). I read somewhere that RLM 75 was a close match for the main frame, but have not been able to nail down that color sprayed on all the access panels and doors for lower RCS capability. It's driving me nuts. I tried contacting Lockheed Martin in TX, but repeated calls to their media people shoots to voicemail, while written inquiries go unanswered. Any one in this clan know the secret numbers for this panel line paint? Thanks for your help. Happy Turkey! JA
  9. Greetings builders - The smallest parts are the first to disappear, right? Well, such is the case with my HK 1/32 B-17G clear plastic wing light part. Believe me, I have searched everywhere, and I have only one in the box. I sent 2 emails to the address info@HK-models.com asking for replacement parts and have gotten no replies. I'm willing to pay up for another clear sprue because it's my own fault, not theirs, and told them so. So if anyone has a more direct line to our HK pals, I'd like to hear from you. Best regards, JA
  10. I got your note and appreciate your help. Thank you very much! JA
  11. I need several parts from the very first step. And this is from kit #200413: B48, B49, B53, B54, B50, B63, B58, B59, and four parts labeled A10. Now I know why the guy sold this kit - he couldn't get past the first step! Thanks for offering to help! JA
  12. Greetings fellow builders: Before my question, a little piece of advice: NEVER buy a model kit that was started by someone else!!! Hence, the reason for my question. I looked at my Academy 1/35 Black Hawk kit's instructions to see how to get replacement parts, but find no avenue. I went on the company web site and found nothing. I need several parts to replace the ones that were badly glued together, poorly painted and horribly positions on to other parts. Does anyone have an inside line to get some relief? I appreciate any and all helpful suggestions. JA
  13. Greetings builders: Can someone in the ARC universe help me get in contact with JAMES HATCH? He is a modeler from the UK who has done impressive work using USCHI's wood grain decals. His "Natter" and "Me-163" with wood wings and fuselages are quite remarkable as seen on the USCHI web site. I'd like to ask him some questions about a build idea of my own, and appreciate any help I can get. Much obliged! JA
  14. Greetings builders - I recently got my hands on the new 1/32 Kitty Hawk F-86D kit and was confounded by lack of QC. Specifically: Parts are routinely mislabeled - for an example, parts labeled for one sprue are found on another - albeit with the correct numbers - while some parts are found elsewhere without the correct numbers. The larger decals have but a slim edge of carrier film on the top and bottom - and nothing in the middle - making the application of the wing's USAF and fuselage sides' U.S. AIR FORCE a battle of epic proportions, because as soon as you move them off the decal paper, they rack like crazy. I wound up cutting these into smaller pieces. The wings' one-piece black walkway lines have a series of sharp angles and turns with no supporting clear film - good luck trying to move them from the decal sheet to the wings without having them folding back on themselves or twisting. I should have known better and simply cut the lines into sections and then apply them one at a time. I wound up using a calipers to measure black line decals I have on a separate sheet to replace them. My main wheels had no holes for the landing gear struts! At first, I thought I had glued two of the same sides of the wheels together (who can say they've never done that before?), but revisiting the instruction sheet showed I did as I was told. This isn't the end of the world if you have a drill or sharp X-Acto knife, but it was unsettling. For the 82nd FIS markings, the tail decals are diagonal white strips with three black iron crosses on them, but when I butted the left side to the edge of the rudder, there was too much white decal for the tail! It wrapped over considerably on to the other side and had to be sliced down. The forward landing gear door is hinged, but you'll try in vain to find part D15 that gets attached to part E35. I wound up taking a fin from one of the kit's missiles, gauged its size by studying the color drawing for decal placement, and cemented it into place instead. The thickness of the fin makes for a great match, by the way. If you follow the instructions in step #9, where you're shown how to assemble the main wheel bays, you will wind up with off-kilter attachment points for the main landing gear struts that are installed way down the road in step #19. When inserting the gear struts, you'll have the tires splaying out at 10 and 2 O'clock! I had to cut and sand down the attachment points until the wheels became parallel. If you like your canopies closed, you might have a problem if you follow step #20. Once parts E58 and E50 are in place on the canopy, the side rails, parts E7 and E8, don't fit. Even without them, there is a little boss that protrudes from part E50 that slides into a slot on the top of the fuselage. The canopy then rests in the open position on the rails behind the ejection seat, and there is no other way to do it. This kit's fuselage is divided into three sections, not two. Be very careful to make sure the two top sides are secured to the stubs protruding from the cockpit assembly and rear engine assembly. Only then will you have a chance to create a nearly seamless mating of these parts. The third side makes up the underside of the fuselage, and it mates with the top two, creating recessed panel lines in the most conspicuous area of the plane - the forward fuselage. Failure to mate these parts correctly will reward you with ugly gaps on either side of the plane for all to see. And finally, someone please explain to me what color "super silver" is. All that aside, this does build up into a nice rendition of the D, but one would think that Kitty Hawk would have their employees make a few kits to check that all is well before they begin their manufacturing process. Given the political climate in China, I wouldn't be surprised if someone winds up in front of a firing squad over this. JA
  15. Greetings all - I am hip-deep into the Hobby Boss 1/32 Sturmovik, and I'll be damned if that freakin' engine doesn't come close to fitting properly in the fuselage. Not only are the mounting points not sturdy, but when the sub-assembly is in place as per the instructions, the exhaust stacks will not protrude from the fuselage slots!!! I triple checked how I assembled the engine itself, and knew there might be a problem on the horizon when the rear bulkhead that gets attached to protruding struts on the engine made the bulkhead lean way further than perpendicular. I have resin exhaust stacks, and they appear to be in perfect scale with the kit version, which have to be carefully assembled by gluing two halves together, and will use them. Of all things, this kit has clear parts so you can show off the engine inside the cowling! I think this problem can be solved by tearing off the valves and gluing them up against the interior of the cowling with a little sprue to create a modest gap, and then glue in the exhausts from the outside. Then I'll have to figure out how to install what's left of the engine so the prop will have something to get attached to. I just want to know if anyone else has had this same problem. I've been building for many moons, and I have never run into such a poor fitting sub-assembly. All I need is for one guy to tell me I'm not meshugga, that he knows what I am talking about, and jerry-rigged a similar fix. Happy New Year to the ARC community of builders - JA
×
×
  • Create New...