lockheed2004

The MSDS for Testors enamel paint classifies it as a Class 2 flammable hazard. Take it up with testors if you have a problem, maybe you can get them to recategorize all the paint they make. Just because you don’t think it’s flammable, doesn’t mean the people making the decisions share your thoughts. I’m sure the USPS is just lining their pockets on overseas shipments of flammable liquids…

They’ve had the Thunderbirds the last 2 years, they generally have something different each year. This looks nice, but not anything terribly exciting. With as many ANG Viper units that are nearby, I wonder why Holloman is providing the aircraft.

Got my J today from the trainz eBay store, $66 with tax and shipping. Kit looks fantastic. Just need to decide whether to do the H or the J first.

We need more moderators, or the site owner needs to take a more active roll. Is there not a captcha requirement to register a new account? Seems like a simple method to at least weed out some of the junk applicants.

Without knowing what you mean by "outrageously priced", there are a few ebay sellers that have them available for ~$60 shipped. One is a US based seller "trainz", another is the ebay store I got my H from, based in Estonia. If you can wait about 2 weeks, I had no issues getting the item.

Yes, this is correct. I pulled my kit out and looked at the sprues to verify. I’m curious why they only advertise it as a Block 30/40/50 when it’s also a 25/32/42/52 given the parts present.

Ordered 2 from Lucky Model when it was first announced, have them in hand since end of March. Kit looks very sharp and is a definite improvement over the initial release. Haven’t built it up yet, but it will be at the top of the pile to see how it compares to the Tamiya Cs.

I've used them in the past over Mr Surfacer without issue. After having 2 bottles of the poly go bad just sitting on the shelf, I switched over to MRP and have not looked back.

PM sent

If you don't like the thin consistency of MRP, then I wouldn't use that one, as it is going to take several coats to get the color to the level you desire. I would anticipate 2 bottles for an entire 1/48 Phantom.

Did you go to the Caracal website? It shows "Add to Cart", not out of stock. Also available at a few other retailers and ebay stores that a simple google search turns up. https://www.caracalmodels.com/cd48176.html

Scale Aircraft Conversions makes a set that can be obtained currently, but it’s white metal not brass. I’ve got one if you’re interested.

Not defending the guy, but he hasn’t been on this forum since Feb 6. Perhaps something has happened to him. People using the post office being closed as an excuse rings hollow any more. You can print shipping labels and schedule pick up easily.

I wouldn’t chuck a Tamiya Phantom in the trash over such a small detail. Restoring it is probably not worth the risk, if you’re concerned about your scribing abilities. You could also make a template and practice on some scrap plastic first.

Ed, I haven't used this one specifically. Usually a 1:1 ratio for topcoat to thinner is good.

Somewhere a bridge is missing it’s troll

That has nothing to do with the original question which was is it absolutely necessary to gloss before decals. First response was yes you must do it. Plenty of evidence to the contrary on this big old internet that says no you don’t need to gloss before you decal. You can decal directly over flat paint if the surface is properly prepared. Financial means has nothing to do with that answer.

That doesn't mean you have to gloss before decals. Test your setting solution on a paint mule beforehand if you're worried. A nice, even paint finish goes a lot farther than hosing something on with the consistency of rough sand paper, then using gloss to level it out.

There are several youtube videos dedicated to this topic. Good surface prep and smooth paint work will negate the need for any gloss coating prior to decals and weathering. A good decal solvent will address any potential issues with silvering.

Email sent! Brian

The pieces in those photos are not glued together, note the large gaps present. The Black Dog sets are 3-D printed and fit quite well, in my experience. I'd pump the brakes a bit until you have the sets in hand, before buying additional fuselages pieces.

Without knowing your current scribing process, it’s hard to say what the issue is, or how to help. There are several good YouTube tutorials on scribing, you might give those a go and see if you like one of those methods better than your current setup. A good roll of Dymo tape along with a needle in pin vise or a scribing tool is a good method. To get the rivets back, there are a variety of riveting tools on the market as well.

There's a recent discussion on this in the Tools n' Tips section http://www.arcforums.com/forums/air/index.php?/topic/330576-paint-booth-recommendation/

Tamiya lacquer thinner also works nicely with the Testors Dullcote, in addition to all the Mr XYZ options above.

First time using Aires? Good luck with the instructions. Sometimes they’re good, most of the time you need a medicine man to help interpret their vision. A quick google search for an Aires ACES II seat should turn up a good bit of completed pics of the seat. This review shows the completed seat: ACES II Seat This product page shows a build up, not sure if you have the early or the late seat, but this should help some. Ejection Seat