lockheed2004

I would have to agree that the panel line wash looks very nice. One casual observation however, it appears you have the modex numbers on the nose switched around. In looking at the instructions the 201 should be slanted towards the rear. Keep up the good work! Brian

Revell's 1/48 F-86D. Currently working on it and there are no problems at all as far as fit is concerned.

Thanks Martin! The same is true for your end. I appreciate the good communication and quick payment. Thanks again, Brian

Jake- I had good luck searching the yellow pages for a heading similar to: "plastics, rod & tubing-industrial". I found an industrial company not too far from my home, who cut me a 6' piece of clear acrylic rod for $2.80. Just a suggestion of course. Brian

Both 87-387 and 88-409 have MCID (big mouth intake) and GE engine so that's what you would need to go with along with the standard Block 30 kit. If you're using the Twobob's sheet all the a/c on there are big mouth Vipers. Brian

I'm in with 2 1/48 F-16s: F-16D 85-573 Michigan ANG F-16C New York ANG Brian

I have a few pictures, only 1 has the water tank in it however. Most of my photos are of the general airframe and several pictures on top of the structure. As far as actual drawings, it's quite doubtful. As far as what I did, mainly intern work, nothing too involved. I did a little stress analysis and designed a support piece for the fire hose. Brian

What do you need to know? I worked there this summer in the engineering department...... Brian

I assume you scratch built the fire tank. If not where did you get that? Excellent looking build! Brian

I'm not an AE (yet), but I do know enough to answer your question. There are several factors that have to be accounted for in both questions. I'll start with the issue of the wings. This was only a drawing board type concept that never even resulted in a flying aircraft, so you're free to do as you choose. The easiest thing would be to increase the chord length by extending the trailing edge. Basic math will tell you how much plastic to add. From an engineering perspective, the chord could be increased and the span kept the same, this would affect lift, drag, moments produced, importantl

Enjoy! I lived there for 3 years, while my dad was an engineer with the USAF. back when it was an F-15 base. The Seattle area is gorgeous. Brian

It was almost a year ago when I did this...... I believe there's a link on their website to order parts. You should send them I believe the kit info, and the part number you need. In this case I just asked for the clear sprue. In my request I believe I mentioned I needed the clear sprue from any B, D, or DJ kit. I do remember it ended up being $8.99 (including shipping) and I had it in about 6 weeks. Hope this helps. Brian

I edited my post. The DJ sprue came from HLJ.

The rerelease I picked up has the smoked canopy in it. The actual D canopy I believe is a tinted front half and clear back half. I purchased the clear sprue for my DJ from HobbyLink Japan, and that one is the clear version. Brian This link shows you what you get in each Viper kit, and V6 does include the tinted canopy F-16 in 1/48 Scale

Didn't we just have one of these not too long ago? Brian

If you're flying faster than the speed of sound, and the shock wave forms behind you, theoretically you shouldn't hear it at all Brian

Jake- Do they still have a family model there, and if so did you get pictures of it? Brian

I don't think Airfix will be releasing too much of anything.

Texas ANG Vipers are Block 30s, GE engines, and all big-mouths if you are using the Twobobs sheet.

Holy smokes Batman!

The Block 42 airframe features the bulged gear doors to accomodate the larger gear. You would need the doors from the CJ boxing. The Block 42 also uses the WAR HUD which is different than the Block 30, however this is a minor detail. Block 52 features uses the same HUD as the Block 30. The HTS pod is also available from the CJ kit. Block 52 has the same gear doors as mentioned above. To answer your question: You cannot make either Block 42 or 52 using the kit you have. I *may* have the bulged gear doors you need at home or someone else might ( I know I have several HTS pods I can send y

There is a lot of work to be done to convert the Revell kit to current S64E or F standards. Also, the decals are incorrect for aircraft currently leaving the plant, and several prior. I cannot remember serials off the top of my head. Notably, the green stripe is much too wide. The clear parts are wrong. The Erickson side windows are bubble shaped to allow both pilots to see towards the rear of the aircraft. A vacuform part is much needed for this. You can clearly see the addition of the aft cockpit door, not present on CH-54A a/c. There is a shroud over the top of the engines (the si

Having seen this actual aircraft, I do not think it is humanly possible to replicate all the grime and paint tones on it. It looks like it went straight from ODS to the museum at NAS Tillamook. This is in no way a slam on your model, I think it looks just fine, the panels are done nicely. Here are photos of the real deal so you can see the a/c you modeled Brian

Did someone say Albatross???? Seriously though, did you manage to keep most of the rivet details?

The plug was in front of and behind the wing, total change in length 23 feet 4 inches, I was going from memory. Close enough.....