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Everything posted by wdw

  1. wdw


    Sorry, I can't help you. I have been very involved in the hobby for many years and I have never heard of this product.
  2. Yes. Vallejo Acrylic/Polyurethane Varnish. The matt varnish is my go-to product for a flat finish. Here is a link to show the bottle. I know nothing about the store, just showing the picture. (https://www.sunwardhobbies.ca/matt-varnish-premium-airbrush-colour-vallejo-62062-60ml/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpJmN-va93gIVgr9kCh3zlAXTEAQYCCABEgI6GvD_BwE A few of my colleagues here use it too with great success. Just thin it with regular Vallejo Airbrush Thinner.
  3. I'd go with Saturday. Some aircraft only fly in on Friday so not all the exhibits are there all day and not all the flying performances take place. It is a short day, and the evening show, while worth seeing once sometime, is not as spectacular as I had envisaged it would be. So if you have a choice, go on Saturday.
  4. Rather than filling it in, I'd make a replacement piece out of the appropriate thickness styrene sheet. W
  5. I used laser printed decals several years ago and they worked just fine. And I bought this laser decal paper from my LHS so I would assume they work. I haven't applied these particular decals yet but I sure hope they work. If not, I'm back to square one.
  6. Thanks again. A friend of my wife had access to a laser printer at her office and so now I have a set of beautiful decals. What a relief. But the failure of the inkjet solution still frustrates me . . . Happy modelling to all.
  7. Thanks for the responses. Firstly to Neptune48 . . absolutely no offense taken. Yes, the paper is definitely ink jet paper. Following the suggestions I have received, I have now tried: 2 additional printers. The object prints well on paper but not on the decal film. brand new "Testors" ink jet decal paper "Expert Choice" ink jet decal paper lightly scuffing the gloss decal film with fine sandpaper before printing, pre-coating the decal film with a light clear coat. . . . none of which has helped. Just give you some context,
  8. Using a new sheet of Testors clear decal film, I tried to print a custom decal using my HP inkjet printer. However, the ink beads up within seconds of the decal paper coming out of the printer rendering the image useless. I have tried various print settings in vein. Any suggestions?
  9. Oh . . . I just saw the posting above saying that this thread is obsolete. Sorry to have replied . . .
  10. I might well have bought something but I couldn't find the product. I tried clicking around the link site for a while but gave up. Also, I don't want to register for what would be a one-off purchase and then be plagued by ongoing marketing emails. If there was a simpler way to place an order, maybe more folks would do so.
  11. I suggest the UMM range of punch and die sets at https://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=punch&x=7&y=8. I am very happy with my mini-set: http://umm-usa.com/onlinestore/product_info.php?products_id=1320.
  12. I agree with Pete. Maybe you should test a couple that you don't intend to use from the sheet.
  13. A quick search on Google shows that MRAD stands for "Milliradian". It all too complicated for me but has to do with range finding measurements.
  14. Our Cdn $ is indeed severely down in terms of the US $, but not so much other world currencies. Check out the mail order companies elsewhere in the world (Hannants, for example) and you may well find savings.
  15. Sounds like you are well on your way to a happy modelling hobby. The best products and ratios and mixes and air pressure and types of hardware, etc. etc. are the ones that work for you. All modellers have their favorites, so find what works for you and you will have many rewarding hours of modeling. If you pay too much attention to what works for everyone else, it will drive you crazy . . . Having said that, if you run into a problem that stumps you, this is a great place to get some help. Just one thing though, I suggest you apply the decals before putting a wash into your panel lines.
  16. I totally agree!! Some years ago I made the same kind of comment here and got generally shouted down by rabid politicos who went on about free speech! I am fully open to free speech but keep it out of my favorite modeling forum. That is what the lounge is for if someone feels the need to express themselves. Also, this is an international forum and the politics of any one country is just out of place here.
  17. While I too agree with the dynamic method in principle, I don't understand why this is important. Adjust the pressure so that your airbrush works properly to suit your style, the viscosity of the medium, the type of airbrush, etc. There are so many other variables at play that knowing the exact pressure you are spraying at is not all that important. I remember attending a demonstration by an airbrush professional and when he was asked what pressure he was spraying at, he said he didn't know and had to check the gauge to answer the question.
  18. I don't want to sound preachy, but using them like that just adds unnecessary plastic into our landfills which we don't need. The glass ones last for ever and are environmentally better for all of us.
  19. What kind of dropper are you referring to? The glass eye-dropper style with the detachable rubber bulb, or the all-plastic one with a blown bulb that you squeeze? If the glass/rubber kind, yes, Windex is your friend. Squirt the Windex down the tube and it will take out virtually everything very quickly. Even then though I find I get a slight build up of residue over time and so I use a Kleenex tissue rolled from one corner into a long pointy cleaner and inserted into the tube by rotation (rinse afterwards to avoid leaving any dust). That cleans out everything. However, if you are refer
  20. "Bummer" indeed. I have had a Paasche VL for over 20 years and have not had either of the problems you have had. I always clean it with Windex and I have no problem with the seal of the nozzle. It would appear that your nozzle is the problem. As the item is new, I'd take it back to the store or contact Paasche directly. You should be able to get a new one. What you have described is not normal for Paasche at all. The brand has been around for years and is used extensively so I am sure this is just an unfortunate incident.
  21. Yes, I'd go with Future too. Of course you will first have to bend the photoetch to shape so it will lie flush in the canopy. Then, a touch of Future with a fine brush and the Future would capillary under the detonation cord. Just leave it to dry thoroughly and the Future would virtually disappear. No mess whatsoever.
  22. I agree with ChippyWho's approach. This is exactly what I do to cut small diameter metal tubing. It works every time, quick and very simple.
  23. When it comes to acrylics, I agree 100% with "Snap Crazy Captain". Tamiya's XF86 Flat Clear is great. I thin it a bit with Tamiya thinner and add a tiny squirt of Windex which keeps my fine tip airbrush from clogging. Great results time after time.
  24. The lack of constructive replies to your post means there is no wisdom from the wise ones. You're on your own with one, I'm afraid. But I find that camo scheme fascinating and I look forward to reading your post once you have completed the task and learning how you did it, or how not to, as the case may be . . . :rolleyes:/>/> All the best!
  25. Thanks Brad. Nice to see the posted pictures include ones of the trophy winners on the last few pages. WW
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