polybebber
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Posts posted by polybebber
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I can do it for you if across the Channel isn't too far away for you
.Lothar
By the way, did you get the Hs123 scans ?
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hopefully the modelling community will still remember this remarkable February 14, 2005:
I FINALLY FINISHED A MODEL
Hasegawa kit, kit decals, KMC weapon set, Tamyia paint and some oiiils and pastels. Off to celebrate now :lol:
Lothar
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Extremely well built and realistic looking 109. Your efforts sure payed off. Congratulations :o
Lothar
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Excellent build and finish - superb model
Lothar
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You have mail
Lothar
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I've got 3 different Vallejo based paints:
Model Color: I think this is their basic acrylic color, most likely intented for use with a brush, not especially aircraft related colors
Aircraft Colors: Also acrylic, but intended for use in airbrushes and available in FS, RLM etc standard colors (bought them from Grand Phoenix)
Model Air: same as Aircraft Colors (bought them in Germany)
If you're using Model Color paints, I'm not sure if you can avoid this problem at all.
If you're using Aircraft Colors or Model Air paints, just skip the thinner. I had the same problems with an Evolution (Harder & Stenbeck) airbrush and was adviced to spray the paints straight from the bottle without thinner, using their thinner only to clean the airbrush. It worked, no more clogging. And the paints are absolutely wonderful.
Hopefully it'll work for you as well.
Lothar
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SS decal sheet 48-410 has sand / light brown markings for an AV-8B II from VMAT 203, "KD" "26" "163883". Instructions call for a F-16 type paint scheme of dk., med., and light gray.
Has anyone ever seen a picture of the real aircraft in these markings :lol: ? None of my references has it, a Google search didn't show me anything either. Who knows more ? Thanks.
Lothar
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Mr. Mark Setter is rather new on the market and I havn't figured out its real purpose. I've contacted the Gunze Importer here in Germany and he promised to send me some sort of user's manual. I'll post again when I received it.
To me this stuff looks rather suspicious though
Lothar
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It's a setting solution for decals, and a good one too .
I'm using it for years now and am very happy with it
. Lothar
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Contact Peter at
www.modelshop.ch
he might be able to help you. He has a mail order shop in Basle. I'm pretty sure he has some Future or Klear in stock. Peter is a nice guy :lol:
Lothar
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I'd say go ahead with the yellow / green. I've copied the below pic from Robert C. Mikesh's fantastic book "Japanese Aircraft Interiors". It's a Val cockpit shot btw. I agree with Murph, according to Mikesh's book green shades where the most common colors inside a Japanese aircraft pit.
HTH.
Lothar
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Go to the Gallery right here on ARC, click - Jets - RF-84F by Peter Doll. I think that will help a lot.
Lothar
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Hi patish,
I've airbrushed Future straight from the bottle and never experienced any problems
. I've set my compressor on low psi, like 15 and applied two light coats. If you want to know all about Future, check Swannys website, you will get some very useful informations there:http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html/
HTH
Lothar
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Check Swannys Website, here you'll find all about Future, Klear etc., etc.
This site should answer all your questions , should have thought of it in the first place: -
It's an acrylic based liquid floor wax, in the UK it's called KLEAR and available almost everywhere. HTH.
Lothar
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I've used Alclad on my Lightning F.3 with no extra priming, except where puttied. Prior to airbrushing Alclad, the model was wet sanded with 600 grid paper, that was all I did to prepare the surfaces. I've airbrushed 2 light coats und polished with a Dremel polishing wheel.
Decals were also applied right on without any Future as base. Maybe I was only lucky
, but I even skipped the black underneath the highly polished aluminum areas and it looked fine to me.If interested, check the Gallery, you'll find the model there. HTH.
Lothar
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no matter what type of finish i have, i rub it down with fine grade steel wool available at wal-mart, it will smooth out the pebbly finish, and it give it sort of a sheem, makeing it perfect for a gloss coat
josh
I can strongly recommend the procedure Big Josh describes, I use the same method during all finishing stages of a model and am very happy with the results ;) ! I also treat the finished model with this method instead of using a final clear coat. It levels any visible edges on decals and subdues sharp paint edges etc. Using the finest grade ( 0000 in Germany), a gentle rub even works great on BMF :)
Give it a try, you'll love it ;)
Lothar
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Gordon Kwan.....
as of today my favourite trader ! B)
Great performance Gordon, thanks a lot !
Lothar
TBM-3 IN PROGRESS - Accurate Miniatures 1/48
in In-Progress Pics
Posted
Exceptional work as always, will definitely turn out another eyecatcher from your bench
:o .
Lothar
(long time admirer of your work)