MusicOn

I'm curious 2 years later what if anything ever developed on this topic. Especially now that the USAF just went IOC with the new EC-37B COMPASS CALL which also uses the CAEW airframe:

Follow up - found a set for the Combat Conversions RC-135W "Airseeker" (the RAF RC-135) on eBay (UK ebay) - includes the AEELS array, hog nose, antennas, replacement boom, and CFM engines! Still a few in stock!

Man, what sad news. I was just getting around to pulling my AMT RC-135 out of the stash and starting to plan the build, with the intent to get some of the Spectre Resins AEELS cheeks, and came across this thread. Awful loss for the community. Here's hoping that somehow his business can be carried on by someone, but probably wishful thinking. Anyone know if there is a set to be found anywhere?

Thanks! Incirlik was a fun yet surreal experience. Like college except NFZ missions Monday-Friday instead of classes. I later learned from a Facebook EA-6B alumni group that we were never technically cleared to tank off of VC-10s. Oops.

I've used Gator Grip for awhile too - it's my go to for PE: PE to plastic or PE to PE. Disclaimer: most PE I work with is relatively small, maybe 1-2cm at most. So I can't comment on any huge PE assemblies. But for your average detail sets it works great. What I usually do is start with the Gator Grip, get the part exactly how I want it, clean up any excess with a toothpick, and then strengthen the join with extra thin .CA using my "looper" spot applicator. Never had a problem with this method.

Yes, enquiring minds want to know! Any way to get a set in 1/72?

Thanks everyone - it's the paint lifting off the primer - I try to be very careful about surface prep (I thoroughly clean the plastic with IPA) and then only handle with latex gloves after paint has begun, making sure to store in a covered cabinet during curing. I wonder if I'm laying down the primer either too thin, or thinning it too much. The texture seemed pretty smooth this time. This has happened on 2 models, the only common thread being the AK Interactive Real Color acrylic lacquer. Maybe that stuff just doesn't bond as well. I can't go away from the

Let it dry for 24-48 hours.

Title says it all: I prime with Mr. Surfacer 1000 (multiple thin coats finished with a final "wet" coat) thinned 50/50 with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner through an airbrush. Using AK Interactive acrylic lacquers. 24-48 hour cure time. Tamiya masking tape - I've tried the whole "stick it to the table a few times to reduce the tackiness" trick too. What am I doing wrong?

Awesome, thanks!

Better view of the recce pod. EO GP1?

Hi all, What options are available (base kits, weapons add ons) to recreate a late 2000's RAF Jaguar in 1/72 with the following loadout: - Phimat chaff/flare pod - Drop tank - Photo recce pod (no idea the name - RAPTOR?) - Drop tank - ALQ-101 ECM pod - Overwing sidewinders (variant? AIM-9L/M?) See pics for examples. Thanks!

Thanks guys

Using a Grex with a 0.5 mm needle and about 20-25 psi. Attempted multiple thin coats. All ended up pebbly/rough - not smooth like the reviews say. What am I doing wrong? Also how do I fix? Already on coat 5 (eachcoat revealed something new to fill). Light sanding to get rid of the grain? A heavy topcoat? This is Hasegawa's P-3C Being done in classic grey/wht. Thanks!

Yeah, I saw that build - may be as close as I can get...

Working on the Haswegawa EP-3E - hoping to make a VQ-2 bird from the early 2000's when they still had the blade aerials below the wings and rear fuselage. I'm having trouble determining the antenna placement/spacing since I haven't been able to find any good line drawings or head on shots. Any help from the ARC brain trust is appreciated! Here's an example from Airliners.net (Talking about the black aerials - looks like 6 each on the lower wings/lower fuselage): EP-3E VQ-2

Do the weapons doors always hang open when they're parked? Seems like an invitation for a critter to find a home in there...

I guess I meant to say that the tape doesn't appear to be a lighter shade of gray like it has been previously. It seems to blend in with the overall dark gray color, at least on this video.

Interesting - another example of no zigzag RAM stripes as far as I can tell.

I second Grex - I tried their pistol grip brush at a show and have been saving up ever since. As a side note, I have the Grex air compressor and it is fantastic!

Spent 6 years there - if you like the outdoors, camping, hiking, kayaking, etc. you'll be in heaven. Big city nightlife, not so much. I lived just east of the base - it can be pretty noisy at night, especially since you'll want to have your windows open during the summer with most of the houses having no A/C. I hear Oak Harbor has a Walmart AND a Home Depot now! Fancy! Many of my friends opted to live north in Anacortes or south in Coupeville, both awesome quaint little towns with really neat character. I would absolutely retire to that area, I hope you enjoy it!

I'm looking forward to picking this one up as a quick and easy "motivator" since I've been frustrated by some overly complicated projects lately. I'm interested to hear what paint choices you go with, especially which dark gray and which light gray matches the decals. Also, there was some discussion about the forward fuselage chines not being "sharp" enough - what's your opinion on that? Happy building!

From personal experience having flown them it is angled outward and downward. IIRC the original reason was to interfere less with the original (since removed) fuselage mounted speedbrakes and to orient the thrust line through the CG more.

I've been keeping an eye on this one and haven't seen it posted here yet (I did a search - forgive me if this is a repost) HLJ Hasegawa F-35A There was some early info from the Nuremberg Toy Fair 2014 as posted at Primeportal. Looks like one of their "Easy Kits" - downside: cockpit is molded into the upper fuselage, and weapon bays appear to be molded closed. Upside - full intake trunking, and a stand, RAM as decals, and Hasegawa's expected excellence. Thoughts?