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Everything posted by SmashedGlass

  1. You may need to try several differing brands of 'poster tack' before you find one with the stickiness (or lack of it) that you like. I have had some blue blue tack (don't know the brand) that is horribly sticky, especially after being left for a bit on the model surface...it's quite a chore to get all of it removed sometimes, especially on matte surfaces. The most recent variety I've tried was the one Mike mentioned above, from Hobby Lobby. It has a "medium" stick to it, and what residue it leaves behind is fairly easy to remove. Another white poster tack that I picked up from (I think) Office Depot a year or two ago has just about ZERO adhesion to it. I now use it more as a medium to plug openings with, as it does what you described (i.e. sticks to fingers but nothing else haha).
  2. Message sent for the Xtradecal Lightnings set.
  3. Also, add a bit of dish soap to your water bottle to break the surface tension.
  4. And they'll surely charge twice what the excellent Esci/Italeri offerings go for.
  5. That, sir, is a beautifully finished model. Great work.
  6. For fine-point tweezers, cut some insulation off appropriately sized electrical wire, and slip it over the tips. Also good for holding painted parts without fear of marring their finish. I am also toying with the idea of dipping or spraying some of my tweezers with a product called 'Plasti-dip', available in hardware stores. It's a rubberized paint meant for tool handles and whatnot.
  7. Are there supposed to be some pictures included with this post?
  8. Sometime in the early 70's; from the time when they still wrote out their name as "Italerei". As for when they stopped, I'm not too sure but I think in the early 80's. As a note, the Revell of Germany 1/72 La-5 is also this mold.
  9. Hmm, then what about the Hobby Boss "easy kit" La-7? I have no idea who they based the tooling on for that one, is it basically correct in shapes (I know it's very simple detail wise)?
  10. You know, that color scheme really works on the ol' Mustang. Nice work!
  11. I can pull a vac canopy for you from the kit canopy in my boxing if you'd like. Send me a PM.
  12. I'll stand by my statement that we need a newly tooled series of La-5's in 72nd scale.
  13. Italeri mold, through and through. And parts for the other manufacturers kits should fit pretty well, may need some mild modification.
  14. Gabor, I'm contemplating starting on the old Italeri 1:72 edition that I picked up years ago, and finishing it with the HuAF markings I bought direct from HAD.
  15. Also, Vallejo Model Air can be mentioned, as it is becoming more readily available (heck, the Model Color line is even popping up in Hobby Lobby now). The learning curve on Vallejo is a little hinky, but once these acrylics are fully cured I find they are on like white on rice and level out to a very smooth layer. It takes some vigorous assault with sandpaper to remove it. Model Color can be airbrushed too, though takes some experimentation on thinning as it is a thicker and slightly different formula than the Air paints. I personally use both Vallejo and Tamiya, but am also considering investing in Gunze Mr. Color lacquer-based acrylics.
  16. Looking for a view into the rear seat position on the two-seater Gripens. Can find plenty of the front office, but none for "the guy in back". Not even in the Kagero Topshots or CMK Photo Hobby Manual on the Gripen.
  17. Yes, the Zvezda and Italeri are one and the sad sad same, and the Amodel/KP kitting is old but marginally better. I'm hoping Zvezda will do a new tool in the style of their 'snap fit' Yak-3, which is a simple but well detailed and engineered kit.
  18. The Amodel issue is the Kopro kit reboxed.
  19. I, too, have this in my stash! Along with many many other "classic" kits. There is something satisfying about building these using some more modern techniques to produce a decent result. Plus, they often cost quite a bit less then the newer wonder-kits and in some cases (we're looking at YOU, Cyberhobby Sea Venom......) the old dogs are better in the shapes department.
  20. Make sure you buff out the paint before you put down Future. Future is not a cure for a rough finish, if your paint is slightly velvety before it goes on, it will still be slightly velvety after.
  21. I prefer (at the moment--it changes from day to day) a more...'upbeat'....soundtrack while in the man cave.
  22. Try Windex first, if that won't budge it use lacquer thinners.
  23. It's very........Dazzling, Ratch ;)
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