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JFVicente

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Posts posted by JFVicente

  1. Hi Picker, I am not ertirely sure, but I think that the RF-4B wings are quite different from the Rf-4C. -C had bulged wings, while -B hadn't. What you can use to make a -C model is RF-4E kit.

    HTH.

    Rgds.

    Juan

  2. Many thanks friends for your comments.

    Excellent Work !!! :thumbsup:/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/> :thumbsup:/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/>

    The Flightdeck is very interesting !! - this Tractor i have ist too, but my exemplar is totally warped ...

    Arne: my tractor was also quite warped too. In fact I was forced to replace some parts over the wheels as I showed on previous pics:

    SAM_7232_zps41a142dc.jpg

    This is very nice! I really like how the camouflage came out :)/>/>/>/>/>/>/>/> Interesting decaling technique.

    Thadeus, the idea for this decaling tech was not mine. I found this post on this forum some time ago and decided to give it a try.

    Decals and future

    The only thing is that instead of using the Future I thinned it with water (50/50 or so)

    Well, continuing with the project: when it came to preparing the exhaust nozzles I found a great problem. If you remember I was using the Aires nozzles intended for this kit. Despite of this i found that they were quite short in diameter, leaving a step with the fuselage of about 0,5 mm all around. I tryied to solve this dipping the nozzles in hot water and then pressing them against some concal shape, hoping that this would expand its diameter:

    SAM_7322_zpsd0917ec5.jpg

    I used the cap of a CA glue tube, but without ant success. What ended happening was that the exhausts were broken longitudinally, as you can see in the pic. I had them even painted!!! But this was not a total disaster. Trying to fix this I inserted a small triangular piece of styrene, with the intention of expanding the circle of the exhaust on the side that touches with the fuselage. Here you can see the exaust with this insert. I painted the styrene with red pen for better clarity:

    SAM_7403_zpse942905f.jpg

    Painted again, the repair is very evident, but I will try to hide this by installing this part against the stinger of the aircraft to make it less noticeable:

    SAM_7407_zpsc68c4941.jpg

    Here the oposite side of the nozzle, that will face to the horizontal stabilators:

    SAM_7408_zps6ef4dc3e.jpg

    I also prepared some armament for the aircraft: 4 R-27 "Alamo" (2 infrared guided and 2 radar guided) and 2 R-73 Archer for the wing tips:

    SAM_7302_zpscf041f5c.jpg

    I used on them the stencils from the Begemot sheet:

    SAM_7302_zpscf041f5c.jpg

    Have to say that I grabbed them from the Trumpeter kit as I found that those on the hasegawa box have the control surfaces too thick for this scale

    I wil be using pylons on every hard point despite some of them will be empty. Here painted and decaled:

    SAM_7305_zpsc78ef28b.jpg

    To end this update here you have the tractor painted and decaled:

    SAM_7301_zps8976581a.jpg

    The decals on the Olimp set were extremely thin and needles to say that I managed ruin the red bars, so I was forced to mask and paint them:

    SAM_7320_zps7e1374dd.jpg

    That,s all for now. As always opinions are welcome.

    Juan

  3. Seriously impressive work on the towing bar and tractor. This is a really great project!

    The wash medium you chose looks interesting; the only problem with washable (or watercolor) pigments is that they are just that -any subsequent clear finish can make them run, and sometimes even the moisture on your skin is enough to make them come off on your fingers! Hopefully this one will work out well.

    Thanks Chippywho for your comment and your warning about the wasable colors. I was worry about extent but have to say that I have the matt coat applied by now ( not pics still) and all went without any problem. I used Marabu thinned with tumpentine and the washes were not affected.

    Want to show how the washes ended.

    The excess was removed with a cotton swab slightly damped with water. The result was a subtle paneling, wich I am very satisfied:

    SAM_7332_zps30a04db5.jpg

    SAM_7335_zpsd4ba4f1e.jpg

  4. Hi again! Many thanks for your interest and comments. I have a new update here.

    Next step was decaling the bird. For this I used some decals from the Hasegawa kit, like red stars, numeral and the tiger of the tailfin. For the stencils I went with thevery comprehensive sheet of Begemot decals for the Su-27/-33 family. There were a myriad of little stencils...I was a bit concerned about aplying a glos coat in preparation for the decals. As I said, previously the panal lines on the kit are so subtle that I could easily cover them with the gloss, making dificult the susequent washes. So I tryied applied the decals without the gloss coat, dipping them in future thinned with water directly over the paintjob. This was a first for me and must say that the pocess went without anny issue and the result was very convenient, at least for me. The only thing is that I ended with the kit full of bright spots over it, but this will disappear with subsequent treatments. Here is the bird, all decaled:

    SAM_7293_zps85ff13f0.jpg

    And some close ups.

    SAM_7297_zps18296607.jpg

    SAM_7299_zpsab36e408.jpg

    I was not very happy with the color of the tiger head on the decal. It is too orange compared with the real one:

    SAM_7296_zps967e43b3.jpg

    With all that yellow stencils I felt that the general aspect of the kit was too "colorful", so I tried to made the stencils more subtle. I sprayed a coat of every single color very diluted, freehand and over the decals. This was the result:

    SAM_7328_zps4bcc882a.jpg

    SAM_7323_zps5a6fbad0.jpg

    SAM_7324_zps56e5878e.jpg

    This also helped to hide the bright spots that I said previously.

    The next step in the process should have been the washes, I hate this method. I haver never been able of achieving a good result with oils, runing sometimes the paint when trying to remove them. I have been using for some time tempera paints with water for this task , but I find this quite "dirty". So I tryed a new method: I found this

    felt pens some time ago and decided that this was the appropiate chance to give them a try:

    SAM_7329_zps80a1a171.jpg

    So I drew every panel line with the dark blue:

    SAM_7331_zps56805130.jpg

    More to follow.

  5. hi Rkic: I have the decals from this Fujimi kit:

    SAM_7338_zps4e32a638.jpg

    They are for a F-14+ from the Saratoga:

    SAM_7337_zps275c9229.jpg

    As you can see Fujimi instructions stats that the SerNo 161430 wa a TARPS capable aircraft. There is a bit of confussion here, as the site Home of M.A.T.S don,t quote it as a TARPS capable(it should have an upwards green arrow, according to the simbology of the autor):

    My link

    But, on the other hand Tomcat Alley, another famous reference website about the F-14, quotes this a/c as TARPS capable:

    My link

    If anybody could confirm wich any of these two extents...

    Anyhow, those decals are yours if you are interested.

    Cheers.

    Juan

  6. Hi Janne! Congrats for all that prizes that you have collected on the contest! Surely you must have been the big winner on the meeting! ;)/>

    Now, we are waiting to see your pics of the Aardvark on the critique corner, to be able to expose all our objections to it and thus lowering your pride a little...(Me at least) :fight:/>

    RGDS

    Juan

  7. Some more progress, now on the base itself. As show previously I want to represent an elevator of the Kuznetshov. I bought on a DIY store a sheet of transparent plastic called "arraglas". This is a transparent sheet aimed to framing pictures. It,s far cheapper that the modeling styrene and it works fine with our regular adhesives and paints.

    SAM_7235_zps286b6cbc.jpg

    I cutted it to shape and began working with it. Frirstly, I sanded it with rough sandpaper to give the texture of a carrier deck. Then drilled those holes intended to represent the tie down points. Then I covered such holes by the bottom with styrene and attached pieces of styrene rod to depict the tie points themselves:

    SAM_7247_zpseec2cf3b.jpg

    I applied a blob of Mr surfacer on top of every of them to give some rough texture, and added those longitudinal strips of evergreen to add more detail.

    I have not been able to find detailed pictures of those details, so this has been the most that I have been able to do from the photos find on the web.

    Then I built from styrene sheet the structures that you see on the nearest end of this picture:

    SAM_7244_zps7ec96ffa.jpg

    SAM_7245_zps7774d47e.jpg

    And built, also from styrene rod that hanging fences, that I guess they are intended to prevent falls overboard:

    SAM_7248_zps62ae69b8.jpg

    And here is the tractor. I replaced some resin from the mudguards over the wheel and replaced them with styrene sheet:

    SAM_7224_zps4d114511.jpg

    SAM_7226_zps54eac8ff.jpg

    SAM_7232_zps41a142dc.jpg

    Here is how this composition will look when finished:

    SAM_7255_zps2261f3c2.jpg

    And this is all by the moment. I have the base and the tractor painted and have just finished to apply the decals to the kit, but still have not took the photos.

    Hope you like the progress and would like to hear yor opinions.

    Rgds.

    Juan

  8. Hi again! Many thanks Mario for your words. I,m here with a new update, not exactly on the aircraft itself, but with the work on the sorruonding things that will go on the diorama, meanwhile the paint was drying on the kit.

    The towing bar on the Olimp model set was so buried on resin and aside of that it was slightly bent.

    SAM_7203_zpsd9365b21.jpg

    So I decided to rebuilt it from scratch. I started with a cooper rod inserted on the plastic tube wich contains the ink of a conventional pen, cutted to the appropiate lenght:

    SAM_7204_zpse12ea4a7.jpg

    The rest of the details were built from Evergreen styrene, electric cable with its own coating, or other diameters of cooper rod, like on the wheel legs and some of them grabbed from the original fresin part:

    SAM_7227_zps033703f9.jpg

    SAM_7228_zps3ddde284.jpg

    SAM_7234_zps9fadfd78.jpg

    SAM_7233_zpsdc3b7836.jpg

    And here is the bar painted and with some scratched. I slightly scratched the paint to show some wearing, and still have to aply some washes:

    SAM_7250_zps84f66982.jpg

    SAM_7251_zpsff173d84.jpg

    And here some other accesories for the diorama. The ladder and FOD covers are from the Zvezda Su-27SM (exquisitely moulded for this scale, by the way) and the wheel PE chocks are from the Olimp resin set:

    SAM_7252_zpsd23610c4.jpg

    SAM_7253_zps93706eb0.jpg

    More to follow in some minutes...

  9. that's what I thought just by looking at those photos...

    Anyhow, I have started with a rather delicate part of the build - painting the natural metal areas of engines, exhausts and tailplanes. They are IMHO 'make it or break it' with Flanker models and in my past builds, I've developed a technique that gives quite good results. Su-35S however is powered by different engines and the unpainted areas are even more challenging to finish... I will publish a step by step tutorial of my technique, as soon as I am finished with this part.

    Will be waiting with great interest!

    Juan

  10. thanks Juan. I was just checking your Su-33 thread. I am not sure, if they changed the front wheel bay that dramaticly between Su-33 and 35S, but the reference pics I got here at the moment, show it much cleaner compared to the Wolfpack's heavily ribbed one.

    Yeah, it was wolf pack's 33 wheel bays I was thinking of. Aires only has pits, wheels, nozzles...

    Well, in fact the Wolfpack-d´s wheels bay set is, in my humble opinion, a waste of money. Sorry to say that if anyone involved with the company is reading this, but the front bay is over detailded, acording to my references, as the real is not so heavily ribbed, as you say, Sabastijan. I modified it to remove most of that details on my Su-33.

    And for the main bays, they provide the roof and the side walls of them, but in form of photoetched, so you will end with a semi-detailed bay to wich you will have to add the plumbing on tubing.

    Again, sorry if this bothers someone, but is my opinion. Wolfpack is one of my favourite manufacturers. I was expecting something like the 1/48 Su-27 bays from Aires...

    RGDS

    Juan

  11. Hi again! Many thanks Janne and Kristian for your kind words. Sorry for this late response, but with the summer, the holidays and so... you know...

    what colors did you use?

    /Kristian

    Kristian, for the painting I went with the colours/mixes recommended by Hasegawa on their instructions as a basis, but I modified them adding some other shadows or blue and white and grays, trying to achieve the hues observed on many photos found around the web. HTH

    I will try to update this thread this evening or tomorrow at least.

    RGDS

    Juan

  12. Hi Lance! You are right about the elevators on the canards and the MLG doors, wich are usually closed except for working on the gera bay.

    Other door wich is always open on the ground id the ram air turbine wich opens automatically when the aircraft touchs the ground:

    http://www.arcair.com/awa01/101-200/awa200-viggen/part2/images_Niklas_Knutzen/gen_front.jpg

    http://www.arcair.com/awa01/101-200/awa200-viggen/part2/images_Niklas_Knutzen/gen_back.jpg

    You can buy it as a resin set from Maestro Models in both 1/48 and 1/72 scale:

    http://www.rebell.com/saab-37-viggen-rat-and-fod-guards.html

    http://www.rebell.com/rat-ram-air-turbine-for-saab-37-viggen.html

    HTH.

    Juan

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