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Everything posted by maurizio

  1. making some inner ribs Scratchbilding the turret ring.
  2. Hi there, here is my last 1/35 tank. It was called S.I.D.A.M. (Sistema Integrato di Difesa Antiaerea Mobile - Mobile Integrated Anti Aircraft System), made by OTO-Melara and used from the 80s to nowadays. I don't know if it is still used today. It wasn't a lucky project due to the high cost, due to the weight and the opportunity to engagé enemies only with a nice sunny day... Anyway I found it very actractive with that strange turret and those 4 AA guns. The starting kit was the 1/35 Academy M-113A2. Here enclosed you can find a picture of the real thing and the starting point, the turret.
  3. Hi there! here is the result of the fuselage modification from a SH-3 to HH-3F. The surface is completly smooth. I'll take care of the right panels later on. I would spend some words about the new primer I've used for the first time. It is named "ARMY PRIMER"and it is made in Denmark. The spray bottle is 3 times of the Tamiya one (for example, euro 7) and it costs euro 12. The online shop stated that this kind of spray primers could be used as a normal spray paint and .... it's true! The surface is completely smooth at the very first pass BUT you must keep your spray can at the exact dist
  4. Dear Rich, I use a normal 240 grid sand paper first, then a very used 240 grid sand paper for flat and curved surfaces where a primer will be used later. For flat surfaces I also use that Yellow tool showed before. It is a sort of plastic block with a piece of sandpaper sheet attached with velcro. It is very easy to use and you can change different papers of different grids within a couple of seconds. It is availabe in DIY shops OR you can easily made one by yourself. Also note that the use of the tool sides or/and angles is very good specially for difficult/strange surfaces. I hope I made m
  5. Here is the resin APU piece. It is completely different from reality so I must reshape it. Here is a picture of the APU on the real heli. It is located back to the left engine exaust close to the main rotor head.
  6. Smoothing the interiors with putty. I like modelling on clean surfaces.... Note the front door is cut first using the Trumpeter scriber and then the cutter for a sharp cut.
  7. Cutting the Attic resin lower structur in order to save the curved end.... ....but is not straigh!!! ...too much!!!! please refer to the Trumpeter scriber blade height... it's about 2-3 mm! DAMN!
  8. Hi there, thinking about the lower part of the chopper comparing the 2 pieces, the kit one and the resin one...
  9. It's time to think about the side sponsons. In order to save time I've decided to keep the kit sponsons made of cast resin. They are a good starting point but they must be revised a little bit. Sponsons must be modified now for studiyng an easy but strong point(s) of attachement to the fuselage. These are the conversion sponsons. This is the first job made on them: I've made a lot of holes in order to have a much more light piece to be attached on the side of the fuselage with pivots. Drawings of the modification. The drawing shapes are excessive - just for a better idea.
  10. Thanks guys, I use the following materials as putties: Squadron White putty, a mix of CA glue and bicarbonate of sodium (for very strong surfaces), Gunze 1000 liquid putty and the Tamiya spray primer for very light scratches. ...and now THE CUT !!!! First of all I used the pencil for the line, then the Trumpeter Scriber and finally the cutting disc mounted on the minidrill. Remember, I'm going on to add all the interiors!
  11. Reshaping ....done! Not so bad IMHO. please note that the upper angles of the tail must be sanded in order to have rounded angles BUT this could be easily done in future. My first goal is to have the correct half semifuselages.
  12. Sanding the parts with spray primer (Tamiya) used as liquid filler.
  13. Thanks Eric! cheeers Maurizio
  14. Filling the holes with more plasticard strips and Humbrol stirene glue. Note the lower stris are strongly glued together later with a CA glue and kitchen bicarbonate (powder - the same you use for washing the vegetables). This will give me a very strong glue when dried.
  15. Filling the rear hole with some angled plasticard strips. Both semifuselages have been temporary glued together in order to obtain a strong base for the rear tail. Perfection is not necessary at this stage.
  16. Thanx all! The last pictures are dated June 2015 so there are more upgrades till today! Remember also I'm going on to add all the interiors..... cheers Maurizio
  17. Thanks mates! Starting with the tail.
  18. Checking the dimensions. Another image of the real thing.
  19. Cutting the pieces from the plasticard sheet for the rear zone. 3 pices, one as temporary central stand and 2 for the sides (extended fuselages).
  20. HI Norbert, LPU-21/P and LPU-34/P were/are used on helis. LPU-23/P and LPU-36/P were/are used on fixed wings. LPU-XX/P means: Life Preserver UNIT-mod. XX They are identical with the eception of the inflatable device. On fixed wings the LP (Life preserver) opens automatically (or manually with the handles) when touching the water. On helis the LP can be opened only manually when the pilot or any other crew issfely outside the helis. Try to image if a LP opens when the pilot/crew is still inside.... cheers Maurizio
  21. Thanks mate for your great and kind help! Drawings with first measurements and shapes. Please note that the tail is very angled. This is the real thing. I'm going to do the 15-29 since is a "Charlie" (C-SAR) version with several antennaes, chaff and flares devices, RWR and so on. Cheers Maurizio
  22. Thanks all for your comments.
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