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Everything posted by DutyCat

  1. Aaaack! Enamel/Lacquer guy all the way here. I know how they will behave better than my wife!
  2. Ok, well if you are a seasoned user, you have your preferences and your reasons based upon your own experiences. You are correct. I did not answer your question, but incorrectly inferred based on it that you might be an inexperienced user. I tailored my response accordingly and was trying to help. My experience is that, regardless of how proficient you are at using them, high end, internal mix, double actions are not particularly suitable for general purpose use, both in terms of the spray pattern they generate, and the thinning required to get them to flow properly. I would be
  3. It is usually a Norovirus, although you certainly can get it from food contamination, it is HIGHLY contagious and usually spread through simple contact. If someone in your family gets it, STAY AWAY FROM them. I got sick and then it blew through my family like a hurricane. We fell like domino's. It was awful.
  4. It is the gloss varnish which yellows in the absence of any paint pigment. So here is your foolproof trick. Flat white until you get good coverage (lacquer paint covers better..check Testors car range), then rub down the flat with 0000 steel wool to knock the roughness off (easy to get the hang of). Gloss white (again, laquer is better...Tamiya TS spray cans are excellent, but you can use thinned out enamel), decals, thin coat of future to protect when weathering, then thin coat of lacquer gloss coat. BTW, I have tried the flat white then clear gloss routine, and that does not seem to glos
  5. No flu, which is respiratory, but I got a bad intestinal virus that was miserable.
  6. Do yourself a favor. If this is your first brush, Get a simple, well made, single action external mix airbrush (I prefer the center trigger Paasche H. Others may prefer the pistol grip Grex, or front mounted trigger Badgers, etc.), a demand type compressor with regulator and moisture trap, and learn how to use it well before complimenting it with a quality, double action, fine line internal mix in a year or two. You can thank me later. Don't scrimp here or you will regret it.
  7. Waterline was sprayed white first, then masked with carefully applied 1/64" graphic arts tape. I think decals would work fine, except around the curvy areas in the bow and stern where you will surely run into trouble. About the bow decal...I seem to remember hacking at bit off in the front center, but it has been a couple of years since I built this kit. At least I now I know what the markings mean!
  8. That is a good set of images. My November was inspired by a drydock photo.
  9. Amazing amount of work. Good job. I visited the Gudgeon in San Diego in 1982.
  10. Thanks Dave, I assume from your user name that you sailed on 637s? If so, thanks for YOUR service!
  11. Thanks Dave, and you CAN. Just coat your base paint job with an acrylic gloss, get out some oils, and weather away. If you jack it up, just wipe it off! Here is another one. 2nd place from Orlando IPMS Nationals 2012. November Class Sub
  12. I say this because the battle with U-Boats essentially defined the Battle of the Atlantic, which was vital to our staging for the invasion of Europe. My understanding is although the American fleet boats accelerated Japan's defeat, the Pacific War was primarily won with air power. The Japanese under-utlized their subs.
  13. The Type VIIC is the most iconic submarine in history, so as much as I love the Gato, it, nor any other sub, is a more worthy submarine modeling subject than a Type VIIC.
  14. Here is another one: Hobby Boss Yasen IPMS Nationals Winner
  15. Thanks, Mike. I will get back to the Revell after a break for some other projects. The Revell will be far less complicated, as it is just the orbiter. Thanks! Yes, a case does help a large model look its best!
  16. Thank you for your kind words. I am glad you like it. If you are going to "binge watch" the entire series, you will need a large pot of coffee, because there are quite a number of them.
  17. How do I update my signature on this new design web board? I cannot seem to find it.
  18. Pete, thanks for the kind words. Test the width of the beanie cap before using it. It might be a little wide and short from the molding process (flexible mold between to flat plates, held together with rubber bands). If it is, drop it on some hot water for 20-30 seconds. Let soften it up and squeeze the sides a little. When you are happy with the sape, dunk it in cold water to "fix" it. I found with mine it was a tad wide and short and I had to sand some off of the sides and add some putty to the top to get it to fit.
  19. Oh, and Hotdog, your decals look great! Very nice job. I see that Warbird now makes a tile sheet also They are over-sized and the "patchwork" look they have gone with is kind of wonky looking, but it can all be brought together with oils and a filter. Yours are better....photographically realistic. Get them professionally printed and they will sell well. The other obvious shortcoming on both the Revell and Monogram orbiters is the lack of texturing in the fuselage. I fixed that the hard way, but I think if a good set of decals were available, all of the strip work
  20. Well, Pete, I only have so much room in the house, and it is not so much a matter of "giving up" on 1/72 shuttles...it is more like "been there, done that, got the T-Shirt" and now it is time to move on to other cool projects. I have started work on the big Moebius Seaview. I would like to get that ready for JAXCON this year. That's on Feb 11, so I have to hustle. I also have the Dragon 1/72 Saturn V, the classic 1/350 starship Enterprise, the big 1/72 Moebious Skipkack, and the Revell 1/72 Gato and Type VIIC U-Boat kits. The latter I have all the internal resin for, and I intend to light
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