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Rob de Bie

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Everything posted by Rob de Bie

  1. Mr Stratospheremodels may have left the stage in the mean time, I remember he offered some of his molds for sale. As an alternative: Muroc Models produces a HiMat in 1/72 scale. It's a sweet little kit, here are two photos I made of my example. http://www.edwardsflighttest.com/price_list.pdf Rob
  2. I took on Dave's assignment. He needed a small set of markings, since all the other decals are included in the kit: a. BuNo (large) on vertical tail, white (2) b. BuNo (small) plus a/c type on rear fuselage, black (2) c. Modex numbers, black and white (2 each) d. Unit text on fuselage 'VMA(AW)-332 MOONLIGHTERS' (2) e. Unit tail markings: EA plus quarter moon (2) Shown below is the first set I drew, using photos that Dave provided. I also used information from MIL-STD-2161C, that lists the prescribed sizes
  3. I tried another technique tonight, on two old Modeldecal sheets, that had their protection sheets solidly 'glued' on: gently warming the protection with a hair drier. And it worked really well, whereas moistening with several liquids did not do the trick. With the heat, you can see the wax in the protection sheet going liquid, or at least glossy. You can then slowly peel it off, or let gravity do its job. It adheres noticably stronger on the decal surfaces, and much less on the empty spaces between the decals, so go extra slow on large decals. The decal paper curls quite a bit, I guess from th
  4. I built the Belcher Bits 1/48 B28EX and RE, and the nose details agree with the photo I think. Rob
  5. I have trouble recognizing what weapon it is, B28 would be my best guess because of the nose details. But I don't know whether that fits the time and whether it's an authorized F-105 load. Anyone know? Rob
  6. I would go one step further: I only experienced spiderwebbing when ingredients were chemically reacting, or curing very rapidly because of incompatibility. Therefore I would try another thinner. Rob
  7. In Thomas Graham's book on the history of Revell, he tells the story of Royle Glaser, the wife of founder Lew Glaser, having serious problems with understanding kit instructions. It's on page 82 in my version. I read that as insufficient spatial awareness (thinking / ability / understanding), not an uncommon problem. Apparently she once built a B-25 model with the wings swapped and mounted upside down, to the amazement and amusement of the Revell staff. However it resulted in changes in the instructions, making them easier to understand. I would guess the model in question is the old 1/64 mode
  8. Recently I saw this instruction video on how to a printed circuit board using only a laser printer, paper and ferric chloride (FeCl3). No masks / transparancies, no photo-resist, no UV light, very simple: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Y6mNqMU9z8&ab_channel=MrCarlson%27sLab Here's a variation using HCl and H202: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u9KWOh5I8Fk&ab_channel=zjokka I think the same method should work for photo-etching scale model parts. Has anyone tried that? Rob
  9. I received more information. Diameter is 53 cm / 21", stamped text reads 'E NJ 621 J73', and interestingly the (automated ?) welding of the blades goes left and right, seen from the middle. As far as I can see, it's not a part of the General Electric J73 as used in the F-86H - that would be too easy anyway ๐Ÿ™‚ The Latin lettering excludes Soviet engines, but for the rest I'm out of ideas.. Rob
  10. An old friend owns the part shown below, a stator vane ring (or half of one). He doesn't know from what engine it is. Can anyone here help to identify it? Thanks in advance! Rob
  11. I can't help you with interior details, but I know nearly everything about the external details in terms of stores ๐Ÿ™‚ Recently I finished a project of three years, researching and building all F-84F stores as used by the RNLAF (Dutch AF). https://robdebie.home.xs4all.nl/models/f84f.htm Rob
  12. I like to use templates, but the shape is too complex (for me) to make templates. I'm doing it by eye. I hope to paint it tomorrow. The sensor windows in the leading edge were quite a mystery to me, so far. But with the drawings that you posted I now understand what Anigrand tried to portray there. I will probably tackle that too. But it could take some time - my build log tells me I bought and started this kit in 2005 ๐Ÿ™‚ Rob
  13. In the mean time I changed the inlet geometry from this: To this, using five spring steel wires to define the edges, so I putty and sand without losing the sharp (but rounded) edges. Next is more Apoxie Sculpt and then paint to see what I've done - with four colors you just can't that. Rob
  14. Mike West of Lone Star Models used to offer this service - I think he's been a professional modeler most of this life. But it seems his shop is closed at the moment, for personal reasons: https://lonestarmodels.com/ Pat Hawkey is probably be another option: https://hawxblog.typepad.com/hawx_blog/out_the_door/ Just curious: what needs to be done? I see some damage on the lower side of the nose, but otherwise the model seems fine. Rob
  15. No, I've never seen deployed slats. And if I may launch a wild speculation: maybe there were vortex flaps like the X-32 had? Kasper wing style? Probably not.. YKM, I'm learning from your extensive posts, please don't stop posting. Rob
  16. Just to be sure, I think this A-6 is loaded with 1000 lbs M65s, not 2000 lbs M66s. I'm judging the crew's height with the 91" (7'7") and 117" (9'9") overall length. Rob
  17. Thanks again! And what a nice shot - I took this screenshot. I can see modex 802, and a bit more searching I found a 'Cut then add' decal sheet that says 'Grumman A-6A Intruder, Bu.No. 151782, Modex 802, VA-85 โ€˜Black Falconsโ€™, USS Kitty Hawk, 1966' (see: https://ctamodels.com/cut-then-add-1-72-welcome-to-the-jungle) Rob
  18. I measure 154.5 mm on the centerline, but maybe I need to round that off to 155 mm, because the nose could be worn down a bit from the extense handling and sanding operations. FS 447.08 from one of the drawings you linked to gives 157.7 mm in 1/72 scale. That makes the model 98.3% of the target value, for the span this number is 98.7%. Fairly consistent ๐Ÿ™‚ Yeah, I spotted that moving lip too, and it answered a question that I long had: how does this intake geometry deal with large angles of attack? Now we know. Rob
  19. YKM, lots of good information and analysis again! I now understand the problem of the width of the main weapon bays, and their doors. But like I said before, I've giving up the idea to build an accurate replica of the actual design. It was way too much work already ๐Ÿ™‚ I will change the inner sides of the inlet openings though, they never made aerodynamic sense to me, and maybe the modification will take away some of the chunkyness of the nose area. BTW, the Anigrand model matches the LE sweep of the drawings you linked to, when I hold the model to the computer screen. Ro
  20. Thanks! But I have to admit that someone else came up with the idea to use that F/A-18F cockpit. Rob
  21. Thanks for the great YouTube links. The first one offers plenty of inspiration for the cockpit of my model. And the way the canopy opens (lifts off and rotates) was a nice surprise. I may copy that on my model. BTW: I'm no longer trying to recreate the mockup or the design drawings, the model is too far off. I'm now building it as a 'what-if'. Regarding the 70'3" wingspan: that equals 21.412 m, or 297 mm in 1/72 scale. The model is 293 mm. Close enough for me. The model's outer weapon bay is indeed too short for an AIM-120. An AIM-9L would fit though. Regarding the drem
  22. Ha! I'm working on installing an Aires F/A-18F cockpit tub plus seats in my Anigrand model. I had to kink it in the middle though. I'm using small pieces of white plastic strip to position the tub in the hole that I dug in the Anigrand resin. Next I'll need a bunch of Apoxie / Miiliput to fill the cavities around the tub. BTW: the photo nicely shows the air bubble pinholes in the recessed area around the cockpit. I filled the 200+ pinholes on the rest of the model, but since I did not know (do not know) what I would do with area under the canopy frame, I left them there.
  23. Very interesting again! I have pictures of the two shuttle variants that you mention. Rob
  24. I think you're talking about the Mark 1 version of the 'nose gear launch system'. I collected a few pictures of it so far. Do I understand you correctly that a crew could install it in a relatively short time, say 10 minutes? That is something I did not know. Rob
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