jungle

Ahhh, the next time I'll read the bottle. Guess I should share that info with the Hobby store clerk.

I can't comment on the Krylon paints. i've never used them for modeling. That is a sweet looking Falcom though!

Today I am off to the art store to pick up bottles of Liquitex gloss and flat varnishes. I have high hopes for these products as they are archival quality meaning they offer UV protection and are breathable and flexible which eliminates discoloration, fading and cracking—on paintings at least. I hope they work for model aircraft as well? I'll also swing by the hobby shop and hope they have a bottle of Velejo clear flat. I'm going to conduct a little experiment and I'll post my findings on this thread.

The guy at the hobby store told me Alcalad was lacquer based and that the MIG wash would work on it. He was wrong about the wash working. Everything I've been told suggests that Alcalad is lacquer based, though, it behaves like an enamel. Why do you say it is enamal based?

I was referring to the stuff in the bottle applied with an airbrush, specifically the lacquer.

I use mainly Tamiya acrylic paint under the Testor's lacquer. Tamiya paint does not yellow. I use an airbrush, though I'm pretty certain the spray can and the bottle are the same thing. The lacquer clear yellows on all paint schemes I've tried it on. It shows up easiest over white paint. Maybe there is something in the air at my house? I have a friend who uses Testor's lacquers with great results. I personally don't trust the stuff.

I haven't tried that. I'm going to see if I can pick up a bottle from the local hobby store today.

I'd like to start a discussion about what plastic modelers are using today for gloss clear coats and final sealer coats, as well as techniques for applying them. I've been modeling off and on since I was 8, ( nearly 33 years ). I'm at a place in my modeling where I need to make some changes to my standard techniques, particularly regarding clear coats. Over the last few years several products have changed or been replaced, and new and better products have been introduced. What has worked for me in the past is using Future as a gloss clear in preparation for decal application and either an oi

Thank you for making me realize that in 1/32 scale It might be doable to paint the inside of the canopy without too much work. I think I'm going to give that a try. Thanks.

Thanks eveyone. Those are all great suggestions. I think what I am going to do is this… I'll sand the seam and polish out the canopy as best I can. I have micro mesh pads, and Tamiya fine polishing compound so that should do the trick. If it looks really good, I may forgo the Future treatment, then I have no issues? Most likely though I'll want to dip the canopy in future. If so, I'll let it dry for quite some time before applying paint. I need to paint plack laquer or enamel first so the inside of the canopy is the correct color. Then I will paint the gray Alcalad primer with Alcalad

Hi all. It's been a little while since I've posted to the ARC forums. I'm hoping all of you talented model builders can help me out with an issue I've encountered while building Tamiya's 1/32 P-51 D Mustang. I'm not super familiar with Alcalad II paint, though I have finished a 1/48 scale Mustang with good results using it. I've also used in on many parts and small sub assemblies on models that didn't have natural metal finishes. Having said that, the problem I have with the Tamiya kit as that the canopy frame is attached to the canopy, it is one clear piece. ( See the attached photo if you

Thanks Mark. That helps a lot. I'm building the pilots in 1/32 scale so I should be able to paint somthinf close.

Hi All, Doeas anyone hove or know where I can get a picture of Ranfy Duke Cunnigham's and Willie Irish Driscoll's pilot helemets? I've built the 1/32 Tamiya model and would like to finish it off by adding the pilots, but would like them to be as accurate as possible. Thanks in advance for any information anyone is able to privide. Cheers, Chris

Hi All, Doeas anyone hove or know where I can get a picture of Ranfy Duke Cunnigham's and Willie Irish Driscoll's pilot helemets? I've built the 1/32 Tamiya model and would like to finish it off by adding the pilots, but would like them to be as accurate as possible. Thanks in advance for any information anyone is able to privide. Cheers, Chris

That is a beautiful bug! I feel inspired. I have two Academy Hornets in my stash. I know one of them as got to be done in a CAF scheme!

Looks like a pretty tough paint and decal scheme going on there and it's fantastic work. Can't wait to see it when the masks come off! Chris

Matt, Check this web page out: http://scalemodelart.com/frames/chris_progress.htm The nozzels are actually a little too long but I think it it's a decent tradeoff for the detail added.

At one point this sommer I had to repaint and decal the underside white because I left the oil paints I used for the panel wash to dry to long before wiping it down. It was very discouraging:-( None the less, i finished it. There are still a few touch-ups I'd like to make. Sone drybrushing in the cockpit etc… I painted the wing boots after the fuselage halfs were glued together and painted, but before the wings were inserted. I left the fron part of the fuselage halfs unglued until the end when I inserted the wings. I sneed to clean up that joint a bit more.

Here are some more pics. You can see more at http://www.scalemodelart.com/photoGallerie...stWar_AC/F-14A/

Hi all! I wanted to share some pics of my recently completed 1/32 Revell F-14A. I started this plane last year around this time for the ARC Tomcat group build. I bought the kit from Ebay and it happens to be the original 1980 release. It sat in someones damp basement for years before it got to me. I thought $12 was a deal for this kit till I started to build it. I built it once as a kid and didn't have near as much trouble. I think the age of the plastic and the moisture really warped the parts and made them hard to glue. Because of the difficulty of the build and the fact that I moved over

The cold hot paint thing is true accept for one thing. Tamiya paints are true Acryllics also. They are water based, not latex. I've never had a problem with Tamiya paints ever. Secondly, you should never use a laquer or an enamel on top of an acryllic paint. The order is always Laquer, enamel, acryllic. Personally I use almost all Laquers and Acryllics (Tamiya). I use Polly scale acryllic dullcote. MM clear coats, gloss or dull, yellow over time (They aren't high quality true laquers). I don't know why anyone uses them. Try Pollyscale clears, especially for dullcoat.

I think that's the best model of an F/A-18 I've ever seen!!!!

Great job so far! Can't wait to see more… As far as decals go I kinda like "The King"

That's Awesome!

the last one.