Jump to content

Snowbird3a

Members
  • Content Count

    925
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Snowbird3a

  1. the Belcher set is the only one that i know of, however, when I used them, I found them to be a bit light and the markings tended to disappear into the grey. I repainted my chopper a lighter than prescribed colour and then a better contrast resulted
  2. the Airfix F-51 comes with the un-cuffed HS prop too. It comes down to price and/or availabliity. I have both kits, if all things were equal, I would go with the Airfix kit, despite the L/G leg situation and the inaccurate horizontal stabs. Cheers, Tony
  3. the effectiveness of black basing and pre-shading ultimately depends on your application of the main colour coats over it, no ? It's all user dependant and no one here can say if it is too much or little. Good luck Tony
  4. How could they ever get tired of vacationing in the South Pacific?? mind boggling
  5. Nicely done ALF. Glad to see it completed Tony
  6. Snowbird3a

    Moved

    Do you know what this sub forum is for ??
  7. Aeroclub W-026, but since they're OOP, gonna be hard to find. Joe's Models has a lot of Aeroclub; http://www.joesmodels.com/AEROCLUB_144_ ACCESSORIES.htm Cheers, Tony
  8. Brad, I found a thread on Britmodeller that discussed Boeing gray and a Tamiya mix formula. The gentleman tried 4 parts XF-2 and 1 part XF-19. Give that a try, should be close Cheers, Tony
  9. Boeing Gray is a nice substitute for Voodoo Grey Tony
  10. Vapour trails have nothing to do with the speed of sound, they are a function of the humidity and lower localized air pressure. Even CT-114 Tutors can pull a wingtip vapour trail at high ‘G’. Tony ps. Nice video
  11. I had good luck using my daughter’s UV fingernail polish dryer Tony
  12. I have the FSM article, it is NorthStar specific, but a great starting reference. The C5 had a DC-6 tail group.
  13. The DC-6 is a better starting point, due to the engines used. If you use a Minicraft DC-4, there is a ton of engine conversion to do. And due to a difference in wing mounting, kit-bashing a DC-4 with a DC-6 is even harder. For a Canadair C5, start with a DC-6, full stop. Tony
  14. ALF, did you paint the speedbrake wells silver? Your own photos show them as Zinc Chromate. Just a reminder to place the wing tanks close, almost touching the landing gear(Hawk One only, mind you) can’t help commenting, ‘tis a sickness Tony
  15. ALF, if it were me, I would seriously putty and sand that ugly wingtip that you glued back on. It sticks out like a sore thumb. But it’s your model, your joy cheers, Tony
  16. The Hasegawa kit has a small scoop ahead of the airbrake door, not on the real aircraft. I saw it on a pic posted 22 July
  17. Did you remove the small scoop at the RH speedbrake, as I see you left the raised panel on top of the fuselage. you model, your joy cheers, Tony
  18. The aircraft is from Trenton, not Summerside or the West coast Tony
  19. Nice one. Let it be known though, that particular Mitsubishi built Sabre was equipped with the slatted extended span wing, not the hard edge wing of the Monogram kit. cheers, Tony
  20. If you do Facebook; https://www.facebook.com/CanMilAir/
  21. You will never find the definitive pic, there was so many variations. The Europe machines were clean NMF, the domestic Sabres had varying (standard) red panels. Grab one pic and go with that. Top picture is before delivery to Europe, bottom pic is standard Chatham OTU colours
×
×
  • Create New...