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DevilsChariot

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About DevilsChariot

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    Clumsy Meat Fingers!!!

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  1. I like payne's gray, it has cool tone to it, although that goes against the warm tones advised above. I say try if you dont like the umberm that or nuetral gray watercolor, it hink the transparency of that gives alot of possibilties fro modulating panel lines. That what i use on normal paint schemes.
  2. Did my first castings this weekend. Didn't pull a vaccum, but gave em the squeeze, since the rtv silicone is so squishy, made some antenae for a hind in 1/35, lost one of two, so made a mold and now I have 2 yay! Made a kk-1 ejector seat from on I had sitting in my box, came out great. Totally excited! I also used the smooth on resin and rtv, they were easy and worked great.
  3. Good Find Terry! About to do my first mold/castings myself.
  4. MI-35 (like the ones venezuela got) Mi-24 P (side mounted canons) mi-28 ka-25 Hormone (mmm... bulgy) Ka-50/52 Trumpeter should make variant kits, where you can buy the extra parts to replace the kits ones to make the other models of said aircraft. I know thats what the resin aftermarket is supposed to do, but they kinda of come and go and hit and miss, and I think with injection molded plastic they would be more affordable. My 2 cents.
  5. Get the CS, Cheaper, with the thick paints used in modeling, the bigger and less complicated nozzle is better. I have one and I love it, I use my HP-C for thin paints and inks and my hp-cs eclipse for models, 1/72 scale mostly.
  6. I started out using the badger airbrushes 17 years ago, they were ok. I got an Iwata HP-C in 1992, and never went back, I still use it to this day, but I have a an Iwate Eclipse for my model work, and use the Hp-C for illustrations. I also use the hp-bc for larger areas or primers and clears. All of them are sturdy, reliable, and accurate. No regrets.
  7. I dip my canopies in Future, cover them with a glass or bowl, and set them in the oven on a wood plank. I se tthe temp to 120 for an hour. After an hour it looks and feels very hard and dry and glossy. I can mask them and not get any texture left by the tape.
  8. I found out that laquers and acrylics dont mix ona painting I did. I also found that if you spray some acrlic based clear like krylon Crystal Clear it will kinda melts/levels the marred areas so they dont look as bad.
  9. Miccara make me think i should be more clear... If the paint has fine texture but is dry and chakly, you are srapying from too far away, at too high a pressure, and with to hot or too much solvent. A reduction in any of those is should bring your paint back into a smotth matte finish. However it could aldo be the ooposite if your paint is textured liek orange peel or pebbles. The you need to add thinner to make sure it atomizes correctly, if you ad thinner and still comes out that way, maybe your airpressure is too low, making the atomized droplets of paint too big. If you are in a hot or
  10. 1. Sprue snips - a good pair will save you lots of sanding 2. Waterproof Sanding sticks (like emery boards) - waterproof so you can wet sand too 3. Xacto knife 4. Flexi-i-file brand "touch n flow" glue applicator - oh man is this great totally keeps you model clean and your seams glued tight 5. Flex-i-file sanding system - these really make for nice smooth round transistion where you need to sand carefully. 6. Assortment of wet sanding papers or micromesh 7. Silly putty, play-doh, blue-tac or similar substance. For masking, put some ona toothpick for carefully applying small parts with c
  11. to slow down the drying of enamels add some mineral spirits (just a touch) to your normal thinner. Make sure you are thinning the paint enough. Thick paint will kinda fleck onto the model instead of finely sparying. Leave the air pressure around 20lbs, but move in to at least six inches liike Edgar said. If you are using acrylics, thin with a water and rubbing alchohol mixture, this way you can thin the paints enough, but get a better dry time and smoother paint.
  12. Good work, makes me want to go build the one in my kit stash!!!
  13. Has anyone ever got a replacement fret from eduard or do they just have to suck it?
  14. Totally true that I coould easily scratch build one but the thing is I paid $20 for that little sheet of metal. I demand some satisfaction! Push come to shove I'll just make it out sheet styrene. (SIGH)
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