Rocky
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Posts posted by Rocky
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30 minutes ago, goondman said:
I kinda think it had something to with brushing it, but to answer your question; I have no idea what caused it. Out of curiosity, what brand of paint did you apply it over?
I thought about using alcohol, but I worried it would attack the paint underneath
Model Master enamel paint.
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16 hours ago, goondman said:
Had the same thing happen to me when I was building a Blue Angel Hornet. I brushed the future as well. can you successfully strip the future without hurting the paint underneath?
Alcohol takes it right off, but did you figure out how to resolve the problem?
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In my early years of modeling, I left the plastic unpainted if it was the right color. I would never do that now. Plastic looks like plastic.
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I have brushed Future (aka Pledge Floor Gloss) onto my F-4K, which was airbrushed matt gunship gray FS36118. The finish has a fine sparkly sheen to it. I'm not sure if its due to tiny bubbles in the gloss coating, or an interaction of the Future with the powdery surface of the paint, or what. The Future is in a container that may have allowed it to partially evaporate, so it may be thicker than out of a new bottle. Has anyone had this problem? Would it make a difference if I strip it off and airbrush the Future on?
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I did find the F-16A that I was looking for at Sprue Brothers, but now I can't find the F-111G that I saw. Sprue Brothers seems to have the best inventory at the moment, but it still has a lot of holes in the Hasegawa line. eBay has Hasegawa F-16As for sale at jacked up prices. I thought that was a bad sign.
I think they do this just to train us to hoard model kits. Considering the size of my stash, that has worked well for them. -
What's up with Hasegawa? It seems like everyone is out of many of their kits.
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Thanks for the pictures!
I was born in Rutland when the VT ANG was flying F-89Js. Its hard to believe that I'm so old that I was being protected from Bears by those pterosaurs. On the other hand, at the time the Air Force was flying F-106s that had more performance than an F-35A.
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Great work Andrew!
I plan to build a VT ANG F-89 as it would have looked during the Cuban Missile Crisis, and I am wondering if you have some research on that. I see pictures of the aircraft in natural metal finish, but the pictures of the gate guard aircraft are in grey paint. Do you have any dated photos?
I also want to build a VT ANG F-16ADF. I have plenty of photos of those, but I'm going to have to make the decals. I've scanned in a sheet of VT ANG F-16A decals, which are almost right, and redoing them without the yellow.
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The AIM-7F entered service in 1976. The AIM-7M entered service in 1982. It was very likely carrying the AIM-7F in 1983. Almost certainly not an earlier version than that.
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I would think that the Blue Angels would want to hang onto their legacy Hornets for as long as they are still in the fleet. They have higher performance than the F-18E, and they burn less fuel. The F-18E has longer range, can carry more bombs, and has a better radar. What are the Blue Angels going to do with those capabilities??
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I'm building a couple of AV-8A Harrier kits, and the instructions for neither one of them say a thing about the color of the interior of the air intakes. The photos I've seen show the same color as the exterior camouflage as far back as I can see, but it's in deep shadow farther in. Is it green and gray all the way back to the face of the engine? Is there any white in there? Its a short, wide intake, so I'd like to get this right.
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Thank You! I just ordered two sets of Quickboost parts.
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I seem to remember seeing replacement early F-16A horizontal tails for sale, but I'm not having any luck finding them. I need them in 1/72nd scale. Do they exist?
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10 hours ago, Ljmorrow92 said:
I would just love to have a 552nd AECW bird. Every single one of the decals that have been produced for USAF birds have been 551st. They're great decals, I'm just biased to 552nd stuff due to family ties.
Having done a little more research, I see that it was Detachment 1 of the 552nd ACW that was deployed to SEA, and assisted with 25 MiG kills. We need 552nd decals!!!
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On 10/18/2017 at 4:58 PM, KursadA said:
I am still wondering why Part 2 was much more popular than Part 1 . My guess is that most folks would like to build a camouflaged BatCat.
Part 2 has a regular USAF EC-121D that flew during the Vietnam War, although I have no idea if that aircraft was actually in that theater. What I really want is a USAF Disco EC-121 that served as an AWACS during the Linebacker campaign in 1972. Who would want a model of an aircraft that actually participated in a shooting war and supplied information to fighter jets to make actual MiG kills during the most intense air campaign of the war? I dunno, ME maybe...
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This confirms my suspicion that the exhausts on the old 1/72 scale Hasegawa kit are too long and need to be cut back or replaced.
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I bookmarked your last thread over a year ago, and I review it from time to time. I've wanted a 72nd scale Saturn V in the worst way, ever since I built the 96th scale Revell kit as a child in the '70s. I got the Dragon Saturn V kit a year ago, and it is such a disappointment. I then got expensive replacement batted F-1 engines, and 70th scale vacuform engine skirts. That will correct the worst flaws, but it doesn't fix the rest of that ugly monster. I am dreaming that someone will come out with a correction kit, but that would essentially be a whole new model. So if some wizard here can come up with a way to turn this Dragon turd into an accurate Saturn V, he will be my hero for a long time. I'm thinking that the second and third stage thrust structures should be written off, and just build something out of tubing and whatever, and put the Dragon Apollo spacecraft on top. It won't come apart in stages like other kits, but maybe it could look right just standing there. I could also buy one replacement J2 engine and scratch build the third stage, and put the Dragon Apollo kit on that, maybe simulating the first docking on the way to the Moon. It would expose the LM and lots of neat Service Module parts that are hidden on the launch pad.
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There are many Ju-87 Stuka kits. Some are Ju-87B-2 kits, but there are no Ju-87B-1 kits. I can't fathom it. The Ju-87B-1 was the varient that made the plane famous in the Polish blitzkrieg, and it was the only varient that saw combat until the Battle of Britain. The B-1 was the most common type of Stuka until 1941. Total production amounted to 697 B-1s vs 225 B-2s.
Airfix will be introducing a Ju 87B-1 in 1/48th scale next year. I expect it will be a decent model, but perhaps not the best Stuka model. A conversion kit to create a Ju 87B-1 might be popular. I've looked for one for quite a while.
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It's about time! I never could fathom why, with all the Stuka kits out there, that no kit manufacturer did the Ju87 B-1. The Stuka became infamous drive bombing Poland with its wailing sirens, and it was the Ju87 B-1 version that did that. It was also used in the invasion of the Low Countries, the Battle of France and the Battle of Britain. Why no Ju87 B-1 until now? Its the version I most want to build!
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I want to do a nostalgia build of the old Revell kit that had the removable cockpit escape capsule. I want to scratch build an interior, but I am lacking any photos of the inside of the F-111 without the capsule. I've seen a good number of photos of the underside of the capsule, but next to nothing of the inside of the jet. Are there any photos of that out there?
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I always put in my 2 cents for CO2. It's **totally** silent, and the only moving parts are in the valve and the regulator. You never (ever) get any moisture, and it's a real pleasure to spray with. I'd never go back to a compressor in a million years.
Why use CO2 instead of a tank of compressed air?
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Did any of the underlying paint come up?
I agree that the surface of the model does not look clean, and any acrylic paint want's a clean surface.
I assume the metallic paint is new. You say it is thoroughly dry, but you may be deceived. Metallic enamel paints outgas and cure more slowly than other enamels, due to the nature of metallic pigments, which actually impede the migration of solvents out of the paint.
None of the aluminium paint came up. Parts of the model were a little dusty, but not where the primer went on. That surface had been repainted. It had days to dry.
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I was fixing up an old Monogram P-38J model I had built in 1992, and I needed to put a white stripe around the nose. The plane was recently painted with Model Master enamel aluminium colored paint, and it was thoroughly dry. I had a new bottle of acrylic-polyurathane Vallejo Surface Primer that I wanted to try out, and it was white, so I figured it would be just dandy for the job. It wasn't. When I pealed off the masking tape, the primer came up with it. I thought primer was the stuff that was supposed to stick to surfaces better than paint!?
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The area in question is a canvas glare shield that could be (in many cases was) removed from the aircraft in service. It could be either black, or a medium brown canvas color. Take your pick, or just remove it altogether.
What was the color of the surface underneath the canvas?
Sparkly Future finish
in Tools 'n' Tips
Posted
There could be a correlation. My paint was flat. Did you use a flat or a gloss paint?