Jump to content

niart17

Members
  • Content Count

    4,752
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by niart17

  1. great looking build. Gotta give ya props, you got B@))$ cutting into an expensive kit like that after putting in all that great work. I'd chicken out. Keep up the amazing work. Bill
  2. I've built the Trumpeter corsair,I think it builds up very well. The engine could benefit from a good wiring and detailing, and there are small problems as mentioned about with the gear door, and the exhaust. I've heard someone was going to make a vac-formed cowling with the proper flaps on it, if that's the case, it should make it that much easier to built an outstanding model. I recommend it. Besides, making things better is half of the fun of the hobby, it's a good starting point IMHO. bill
  3. i can see you have your priorities in order, keep up the good work.
  4. Just curious, when a plane catches a wire, are it's wheels really still off the deck? I've never really watched it that closely, but it seems like that would be a little rough. Could one of the pilots here comment on that? Bill
  5. Hey Mike, Sounds like we're in the same boat man. My wife is about to drop our first child as well. As the doctor says "any day now!" It's exciting times but yea, kinda hampers the building process. It's not easy trying to convince a pregnant woman that the baby just might very well need some more modelmasters paints, I mean that's a vital baby item......isn't it? Good luck with the baby, and like me, probably have to just watch everyone else build for awhile thru the window. My wife keeps screaming something about "that glue" making her sick to her stomach.....wah wah wah..... :blink: Take
  6. thanks for the info You guys come thru again, man this site is awesome. brings to tears to the eyes, just welling up with pride that.....that........snif snif I Love ya man ahha ahh, how bout dem bears...... take care Bill
  7. Thanks for the insight. Looks like Aires it is then. However, the Verlinden set sounds pretty nice too, with the avionics bays......my mouth is watering just thinking about all the detailing. I know some verlinden stuff isn't really worth the resin it's cast out of, is this a good set?
  8. Hey all, I was rumaging thru some of my old stash and ran across a testors/fujimi a-7e in 1/72 scale. It looks like a decent kit so i figures, "why not, looks like a good project". well the cockpit is missing, not that i would have used it anyway, but does anyone have suggestions as to what the best a.m. pit is for this kit? I'm not even sure who all makes one much less which is the best. I usually use B.B. for all my 48th and 32nd scale stuff, and am happy with them, what about the 72nd scale? Also, are there any other detail sets that may help this become a good looking kit? Help! Bill
  9. that's cool. My bro-in-law just retired air force pilot, I've seen the red tape he had to go thru just to get a cam up. thanks all the same. if'in the plane happens to be close to you with your camera, and you can get a shot, that would be swell, otherwise, it's all good. take care. Bill
  10. forgive my ignorance...but.......HUH? do you mean that you saw one in flight, flying off of your wing? didcha get a photo??
  11. I'm not positive of this, but I believe the thickness of the decal has more to do with how much clear you shoot over it, not so much the underlying paper. Someone correct me if i'm wrong. I had the same problem with testors paper, so i just shoot a thinner top coat and it seem to lay much flatter. The trick was finding the happy medium of enough to seal, but not too thick. good luck Bill
  12. funny you should say that. i was at a Oklahoma city air show about 12 years ago or so, and saw an f-18 in grey, but the two outboard flaps were both in desert camo. I took a pic but lost it since then. I've always wanted to build that plane just so a judge would balk at it, then i'd whip out the pic.....but since i have no photo evidence.....it'll have to wait. Anyone ever see a similar plane?
  13. Hey Dax, I am in a very similar situation, I lost my model room to our new baby nursery. We have a small shed in the back (only 8' X 12') and I am planning on closing it in to make a hobby room. I gonna sheet rock, insulate and get a little window unit to keep it cool. I found a pretty cheap one at home depot that actually has a good thermostat so I can leave it set to about 80 degrees, to keep the humidity down (I live in southeast Texas, 75% humidity is a dry day!) Anyway, I figured the cost, and it's just under $400 dollars to weather proof my little shed, so I think it's not a bad deal.
  14. i kinda figured it had to be something like that, it was too perfect, but i bet at some contest, that would still get some comments. I like dirty jets, just gives a real used war machine look. btw, yours looked great. that really looked just like the sealant in the photo. anyway, thanks for the info, i may have to try to replicate that on my next academy d model, if i ever actually get around to doing it. Working on my first 1:1 scale baby right now, have to finish the details on that before i can work back in plastic. Bill
  15. Now I want a judge to say that my panel lines are slightly too dark!!! look at the panel lines on the spine! looks like a wash that wasn't thinned or wiped down......hmmmmm.. Bill
  16. I guess this is pretty rare material, as I can't seem to get anything on it. Just re-posting my inquiry. Thanks Bill
  17. Since the canopy is almost a write off anyway, maybe you could try to thermoform a copy of it. I know on those dragon ea-6's, the canopy material is really thin, so you definately want to back it up with some putty, but with a little effort, you should be able to make a pretty good copy. Another thought is to get some auto window tint and cover it. I'm not an expert, but aren't those canopies tinted slightly anyway? That might help hide the frosting a little. Good luck, and post some photos of your success. Bill
  18. I learned a trick a while back for using micro mask. After you apply it, before you paint, lightly score the edges with an x-acto knive. Sometimes, in the application process, the egdes kind of feather out a little, so when you paint, it makes a ledge that pulls up the paint that's on top of it. scoring that edge seems to help give perfect lines. Give it a shot if you don't want to try tape. I prefer tape myself, but occasionally it's easier to use micro mask, like on the 1/144 scale blackhawks!!!! just an idea. Bill
  19. cool site. The only thing, depending on how accurate you want to be, you would have to make sure your screen is properly calibrated and accurately displays the colors. I have seen some screens be off quite a bit, causing some serious problems when sending stuff to the printers......(voice of experience, very expensive lesson learned )
  20. Seamstresses use a very similar tool that can be found at Wal-mart or Hobby Lobby. I think they call it a pounce wheel, used to transfer patterns onto the fabric. (My mom sewed for as long as I can remember) Anyway, I think it comes with different tooth spacings available and is probably cheaper. Just a thought. Bill
  21. Hey Rob, Just a thought, I haven't watched it in quite a while, but in Black Hawk Down, it seems like in the scene where they are showing the fast rope drop, if my memory serves me (usually doesn't) they have a shot from the ground up to the belly of the black hawks. If so, thay may be of some use to you. Would love to see the finished project, sounds great, and challenging. Bill
  22. Initially, these will be for 1/144 scale models, I want to be able to scale them up or down as needed for any future builds, like the 1/32 scale super bug that eventually will come out! (I can dream) <_< Anyway, I like drawing them up in a vector program to accomodate any scale I may want to build.
  23. Hey Guy's, I am looing for some real close up pics of the new VFA-105 superbug tails to make decals from. I have found some here on the forums, but nothing close enough to do some accurate decals. I have also found a pic of a tatoo design based on it, but I don't know how close to the mark it is to the tail design. I realize I could just copy Superscale's decals and scale, but I'd like to do it the right way, and make my own. Any help would be greatly appreciated. It could be either the CAG or the line bird, I am planning on doing both, and I think the shapes are the same, just colors being
  24. I think it's kinda interesting, I've heard several people complain about the gun bays being molded closed, but apparently they are scribed to make for easy opening. Imho, it seems like the best way to go about it. That way, for people who don't want open bays, there's no issue of the doors not fitting close enough, (which was a complaint about Hasa mustang) and for those that do, just simply cut them out. I think i will bite the bullet and get it despite the warnings. Although I may wait a bit like Dave recommends. I think I have an old Hasagawa mustang built somewhere, I can swipe the prop
  25. I am interested in getting the new 32nd scale Dragon p-51, but I have heard really conflicting reviews of it. One review basically said he threw it in the trash!, the other one said it was the best large scale mustang on the market! So Wha...........? I trust the opinions of you guys, does anyone have this kit, and what are ya'lls (yea, i'm southern) thoughts? Is it better than the Hasagawa kit? Thanks. Bill
×
×
  • Create New...