Nieuport

As neded

Actually my favorite WWI flying movie was and still is "The Blue Max". With my home theater system, it is very nice to hear the old coffee-grinder sounding engines of the German Pfalz's wind up, coming from non-computer-generated-graphics aircraft. The blockbuster I was referring to is the recent "Flyboys" movie.

Personally I use the brushible Loctite Super Glue. You see, this basically falls under the same catagory as biplane rigging. As Tanex said, you might want to have a drilled hole to ensure the metal antanna will not "float" on you. A technique shown in the FSM magazine is to take a large sowing needle, poke the point into a wooden pencil, or stick of some sort for a handle, and cut the top off of the needle's eye. This gives you a tool in which you can fill the slot in the needle's eye with CNA liquid, and then apply the open end to the joint you are gluing. This controls the amount and the

Thanks. I just looked the site over and the two things that hit me were the price (nearly $40.00) and this review comment: " Unfortunately, Goodtimes Video's policy is to release films "enhanced to fit your TV screen" and the power of this film's visual majesty is severely diminished." Also I noticed that they changed the "cover art" from the origional film's poster, which shows a Camel and a Fokker Triplane in a "dead-heat" with Robert Redford in uniform proudly standing in the foreground, which I really like as much as the movie itself. I guess in order to maximize theeir profit they did n

I wish they had a copy on DVD!

I make a simple fixture out of a kit model box bottom by cutting slots in the sides for the wings and a small slot in the end for the tail-end of the fuselage. This is cheap, available, simple and easy to adjust simply by trimming.

Just to throw in my 2 cents, in fact rigging a biplane model has the same advantage it did for the actual aircraft, done properly, it structurally strengthens the model, actually adding to its durability.

BOAC Concorde

And all they had to do was put a forward skid like the Avro trainer to protect him.

I try to as well, since I find that acrylics actually are harder on bristle brushes and will shorten the brush life faster then enamels. It seems that they tend to fully harden at the brush ferule before I can get to cleaning the brush in general, resulting in a shorter available bristle for the next use. That is why I buy the inexpensive ones by the fistful when they are on special at Hobby Lobby and throw them away after a few uses

Also, buy yourself a set of small cutter pliers. I find that the flat-nosed one is very helpful in handling as well as straightening a bent a PE part.

I get mine at Hobby Lobby

So far so good! Just remember that if it is like the old Academy kit (which was the old Hobbycraft kit) there were two detail errors in that kit you might want to watch out for: 1. They literally want you to install the twin Vickers guns upside down! to correct that you snip off the pegs on top of the barrel jackets, and install them correct side up. 2. The small prop driven fuel pump is loacted on the wrong cabane strut. They have it on a forward strut, when it belongs on a rear strut. Of course this means you snip it off the wrong strut and glue to to the correct one, which is the right

This is the same basic method I have used for rigging all my biplanes, only I use the blunt end of and X-Acto knife to simply hold the strand to the rigging point as I apply CNA glue to that point, working point-to-point, cross-bracing the interplane and cabane wing struts. Except in the case of control wires coming from a cockpit interior, I never drill the wings as some do, and for the occasional need to have a string go to a stabilizer, I simply spin the pointed typical X-Acto knife blade to make a hole.

Awfully habit forming! Overall, they are much more forgiving, have ugly finishes that cannot be messed up, and very few good photographic references to embarress the builder.