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nzgunnie

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About nzgunnie

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    Ohakea
  1. Good quote, one of my favourites. The outboard weapon pylons aren't any more wrong for the I, than they are for the NZ. That is they are missing the rear support structure, which is the triangular shaped bracket that sticks out the rear end. The NZ and I have different support structures (the I being larger and more solid to support the Penguin Wing Lanyard System), but since the pylon is missing it, scratch building one is no harder than the other. You see the outboard pylons have two basic configurations: Penguin, and Torpedo. The Torpedo configuration uses the short forward fairing which is identical to the NZ forward fairing. If you want to model the Penguin configuration, than yes, the kit pylons are wrong in that they require the longer forward fairing the covers the Penguin Umbilical Release Unit. I will see if I have any images of the cabin, but I don't think I have any I can post on the internet. The inside of the I model is notable for the individual crash worthy seats that replace the NZ (and F model) canvas seats and troop seats. Also there is no Radar RT in the rear like their is in the NZ, so apart from the seats the rear cabin is basically empty.
  2. Those are SH-2G(NZ) aircraft which were never Australian aircraft, but were new build G airframes built for NZ. The RAN purchased remanufactured F airframes, designated SH-2G(A), which are now designated SH-2G(I) and have replaced the SH-2G(NZ) in RNZAF service.
  3. If you are building a Mk-46 torpedo, it would have a Mk31 air stabiliser if prepped for SH-2 use. The blades of the props remain exposed, although they are held from rotating by a large O ring looped around them and wired to the retaining screw for the air stabiliser. This wouldn't be noticeable in 1/48 though! There is a slightly different configuration for the arming wires depending on whether it is prepped for the inboard or outboard pylons.
  4. The SH-2G(I) in NZ service is almost identical to the configuration they existed in when called SH-2G(A). There is a small difference in the instrument panel, with the MDLR card loader moved from the IP to behind the pilot's head and additional standby instruments added. Externally the only real difference is the addition of decklock replacing the RAN's RAST system. Currently the I is even painted the same, with the only changes to the markings being the replacement of Roo roundels with Kiwi ones, and the change in tail numbers. Currently there are some random NZ (common) parts in use on the I, such as AUX tanks, FLOT pack farings, smoke marker dispensers, nose gear box fairings and possibly even some blades. This means most I model airframes have at least one item painted in the NZ's FS26440 (light gull grey) contrasting with the Australian paint scheme. There is currently work being carried out to look at repainting the I, but I'm not privvy to the intended scheme at the moment.
  5. I can confirm the additional exhaust vent is for the ECS, one of the changes between the NZ and the I. The APU is in the same place on both types, and is similar, except that the I model is actually an APU as it has a generator on it, while the NZ is really just a GTC for bleed air. Anyone wanting to build an NZ might find these images of mine useful: http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/pgarmonsway/library/Seasprite The I model is quite different to the NZ as far as antenna fit and cockpit layout. It's not a huge stretch to build an NZ from the kit, but an I model would take quite a bit more scratch building. There are a lot of little (or not so little) details missing for an NZ though, off the top of my head: Decklock; HF 9000 antenna (this is the very obvious tubular antenna that runs down the entire of the LHS of the aft fuselage); ALE-47 dispensers (there's sort of a blanked one on the RHS, nothing on the LHS for some reason); Winch boom on canted bulkhead; Radar RT in aft cabin; Troop seats in aft cabin; OTBD Weapon pylons need aft structure added; Centre lower console isn't really right as it is only one row of panels wide; FLIR hand controller; Observers mission panel, which includes ALE-47 DCDU and smoke marker control panel; INBD weapons pylons are technically F model ones, which are slightly different in shape to the NZ ones.
  6. Another vote for the Aqueous color range. But I wouldn't thin with water. Tamiya X20A or Mr Levelling thinner is the way to go for airbrushing. Some colours take quite a long time to cure, more like enamels than acrylics, but once cured they are very hard.
  7. As noted above, tamiya flat base is not a flat coat, but a medium that is added to gloss paints to dull them down. It doesn't matter what you thin it with, it will still dry frosty because it is not a flat coat. I have read of people having success spraying a coat of future or other gloss coat over it, then using a proper flat coat after that.
  8. That is simply stunning. Right down to the MHU-191 weapons skid, that low angle photo of the guy pulling it along and carrying his cranial in the other hand looks real.
  9. I use the Aqueous colour paints a lot, and I've had great success thinning it with X20A, Tamiya Lacquer thinner and Mr Colour Levelling thinner. It does take a few days to cure fully, I've had the finger mark problem as well, but once cured it is rock hard and far more durable than Tamiya paint.
  10. Kelly would have flown all the A4s in service during her time at Nowra and Ohakea. We didn't have that many, and they weren't assigned to particular pilots.
  11. Was really hoping for a G, as shown in the CAD drawings.
  12. Except that never happened. It looked good in weekly magazines about the conflict, but it was never actually done.
  13. I have the official RNZAF finishing scheme drawings for the SH-2G(NZ) if these are of use to you making decals, Let me know. Also, ny photobucket album has a lot of images that might be useful: http://s1233.photobucket.com/user/pgarmonsway/library/Seasprite?sort=3&page=1 I'd love to see a decent set of decals available.
  14. And yet it works very very well. Gunze (and Tamiya) acrylics thin very well with both Tamiya lacquer thinner and Mr Color levelling thinner. I mostly use Tamiya X20A, which can be purchased on ebay reasonably cheaply in the 250ml bottles. Gunze's thinners are also available on ebay in the 400ml bottles, both the acrylic thinner and the lacquer 'levelling' thinner.
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