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About TheRealMrEd

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 04/06/1944

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Interests
    1/72 US Military airplanes.
    Park Flyer R/C.

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  1. While it's a 1/72 scale model versus the subject 1/48 scale, this model was built from a Hasegawa F4 kit only -- no aftermarket parts, resin, or vacuform. All out of the Hasegawa box, plus some home-made decals: Exacting, detailed instructions and needed artwork (in 1/72 scale!) can be found HERE, in the build thread. I don't know why you couldn't do the same thing in 1/48th! Ed
  2. Testor's ELO (easy lift off) paint remover is your friend for enamels... Ed
  3. Parafilm "M" is your friend! After a slight coating of Alclad II Aqua Gloss, I even use it to mask over applied decals: Before After Ed
  4. Over the many years that I've modeled, I've set aside many started kits. Some,because they were too tough for my skills at the time, some because something else struck my fancy to build sooner, but most because much better models had been released since I bought them. That being said, fast forward 20-30 years, some that I've decided to build recently are selling for $29.00 or so, when they where $1.69, etc. etc.when I bought them many years ago. Another thing to remember, that no kits are ever wasted. When I needed a part for one of the many conversions that I've done
  5. Better yet, spray a coat of Alclad II Aqua Gloss water based paint over the decal let dry, then mask with Parafilm "M" and don't worry at all... Ed
  6. Hi, been looking for this sheet for a while. Will buy or trade, but will also be happy with a clear scan of same. Ed
  7. Can't speak to the paints you are using, but when I shoot Alclad II Chrome or Polished Aluminum, etc. it's over a very glossy coat of black enamel. EVERY defect will show, as will orange peel, dust, improperly sanded parts, etc. The model should be as close to polished as you can get it BEFORE adding ANY paint. Also, the chrome usually has to be put on in very thin coats (you can always add more later!), because, like a mirror, the chrome reflects off of the black for that super look.. Ed
  8. For any 1/72 builders, why wait for a conversion kit? You might be interested in my in progress F4H-1 Prototype kitbash of a Hasegawa F4B/N kit: HERE It contains NO aftermarket or conversion kit parts... Ed
  9. It comes up now and then, whether it is possible to duplicate vac-u-formed canopies. The answer is yes! I will show you how I do it. First off, the canopy you wish to replicate has to be closed at both ends. If it has already been cut out of it's plastic sheet, you are going to have to devise a way to make it hold a runny sort of product. One way might be to glue plastic pieces to the part that needs to be sealed off, using a glue such as G-S cement, which can later be dissolved with 91% rubbing alcohol, without harming the plastic. BEWARE -- THIS METHOD WILL NOT W
  10. Hello again, seems like only a few days ago that I was writing up last year's build log. Time flies! But, I was determined to make the best of this rather trying year... Anyway, here are this years completed models, although a couple were shelf queens from yesteryear. First up, the Lift Here Models Piper PA-58 -- last of the Mustangs: For those interested, the build thread is HERE Next up, the first Great Blue Whale, the XA3D-1 conversion of the Hasegawa A3B: XA3D-1 Build Thread HER
  11. Come on now -- if you ever hope to grow up to be a kit-basher or scratch builder, you're gonna need all those spare parts someday! Ed
  12. For the build threads about correcting the Trumpeter 1/72 F-100 series mentioned above, here are the links: F-100C F-100D F-100F Wild Weasel When all the kinks are worked out, they are very accurate. Ed
  13. Just looking for the above answer... Ed
  14. You might try googling TheRealMrEd and follow a link to any of the models that come up. Almost all have a detailed build, lots of pics and cover a whole lot of basis ideas on kit-building, which is the reason I do the build threads in the first place. Some of the models are here on ARC as well, with links to the build threads... Ed
  15. I've also used MM paints forever, and have loaded up on some. I also love Colourcoats, and have several colors, but they are sometimes hard to come by in the U.S. My new backup supplier has become True North Paints, and they are great replacements for MM -- even using the same size glass bottles, which speeds up the airbrushing process... True North Paints Ed
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