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TheRealMrEd

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About TheRealMrEd

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 04/06/1944

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Interests
    1/72 US Military airplanes.
    Park Flyer R/C.

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  1. All very nice, and certainly an eclectic assortment! Ed
  2. Thanks for the kind replies, folks! Sorry to have taken so long to respond, but it's been a busy January. Hope you've all had a happy so far... Ed
  3. Either Weld-ON #3 works fine on plastics. Reminds me of the old Amroid thin cement that I was using until they went away and I found this. Use it on all my plastic models for over 10 years now. I'd be leary of using it on clear parts, as it will eat into them as fast as the other plastic. You can use one of the tiny tube dispensers like a "toucn 'n flow". I would recommend G _ S watch cement for sticking on clear parts. It sets up pretty quickly and can be smoothed with rubbing 90% alcohol when dry. Ed
  4. I have dipped canopies in Pledge/Future for years. Also, if you hold the CA seam up, most of the fumes will rise, sparing the canopy fog mention. However, I had a times after the model was completed had grunge appear out of the depths and stick to the inside of the canopy. I sometimes drill tiny holes through the nose ear well through the floor of the cockpit, and using a hypodermic or eyedropper to inject Windex w/ammonia into the hole. The hole model can be swished around, and usually the crud will wash free ans sink to the bottom of the cockpit floor where it can't be seen. The Window
  5. Well, time for the usual year-end roundup. 2021 has been an odd year, but I got some more done: First up, the 1/72 F4H-1 Phantom Prototype conversion, using no aftermarket parts: A few challenges, but worth it. For those interested, more pics HERE which will then link to the build thread proper. Same process will be repeated for all the models... Next up, the Curtiss A-18 Shrike resin build: More pics HERE Next, the F3H-1N DEMON conversion:
  6. YW Gene. Sorry not to have responded sooner, but the end-of-year has been a bit hectic! ED
  7. While it's a 1/72 scale model versus the subject 1/48 scale, this model was built from a Hasegawa F4 kit only -- no aftermarket parts, resin, or vacuform. All out of the Hasegawa box, plus some home-made decals: Exacting, detailed instructions and needed artwork (in 1/72 scale!) can be found HERE, in the build thread. I don't know why you couldn't do the same thing in 1/48th! Ed
  8. Testor's ELO (easy lift off) paint remover is your friend for enamels... Ed
  9. Parafilm "M" is your friend! After a slight coating of Alclad II Aqua Gloss, I even use it to mask over applied decals: Before After Ed
  10. Over the many years that I've modeled, I've set aside many started kits. Some,because they were too tough for my skills at the time, some because something else struck my fancy to build sooner, but most because much better models had been released since I bought them. That being said, fast forward 20-30 years, some that I've decided to build recently are selling for $29.00 or so, when they where $1.69, etc. etc.when I bought them many years ago. Another thing to remember, that no kits are ever wasted. When I needed a part for one of the many conversions that I've done
  11. Better yet, spray a coat of Alclad II Aqua Gloss water based paint over the decal let dry, then mask with Parafilm "M" and don't worry at all... Ed
  12. Hi, been looking for this sheet for a while. Will buy or trade, but will also be happy with a clear scan of same. Ed
  13. Can't speak to the paints you are using, but when I shoot Alclad II Chrome or Polished Aluminum, etc. it's over a very glossy coat of black enamel. EVERY defect will show, as will orange peel, dust, improperly sanded parts, etc. The model should be as close to polished as you can get it BEFORE adding ANY paint. Also, the chrome usually has to be put on in very thin coats (you can always add more later!), because, like a mirror, the chrome reflects off of the black for that super look.. Ed
  14. For any 1/72 builders, why wait for a conversion kit? You might be interested in my in progress F4H-1 Prototype kitbash of a Hasegawa F4B/N kit: HERE It contains NO aftermarket or conversion kit parts... Ed
  15. It comes up now and then, whether it is possible to duplicate vac-u-formed canopies. The answer is yes! I will show you how I do it. First off, the canopy you wish to replicate has to be closed at both ends. If it has already been cut out of it's plastic sheet, you are going to have to devise a way to make it hold a runny sort of product. One way might be to glue plastic pieces to the part that needs to be sealed off, using a glue such as G-S cement, which can later be dissolved with 91% rubbing alcohol, without harming the plastic. BEWARE -- THIS METHOD WILL NOT W
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