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TheRealMrEd

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About TheRealMrEd

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 04/06/1944

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Interests
    1/72 US Military airplanes.
    Park Flyer R/C.

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  1. I've also used MM paints forever, and have loaded up on some. I also love Colourcoats, and have several colors, but they are sometimes hard to come by in the U.S. My new backup supplier has become True North Paints, and they are great replacements for MM -- even using the same size glass bottles, which speeds up the airbrushing process... True North Paints Ed
  2. Hi jrbm, Here is a link to my thread on casting clear resin canopies Link You may want to read the whole thread, as my first or second efforts didn't turn out as well as I would have liked, but the third one did really great. There is a discussion and some great research by a fellow modeler about which resins are least likely to yellow -- well worth your perusal! These are some other great tips there also, about curing your silicone mold and preheating the clear casting resin before mixing, which aids in casting thin parts, like canopies! Ed
  3. +1 for Perfect Plastic Putty AND 3m Acrylic... Ed
  4. I often use Alclad II's range of Flat, etc. topcoats to hand brush just over the decals, with no probs. Ed
  5. You might consider this... True North Paints are your friends... Ed
  6. FWIW, As far as cracking and splintering go, I've only had one set of decals which I couldn't save by using a couple of coats of Microscale Liquid Decal film, applied with a brush. Also, only a couple have failed to respond to being placed in a ziploc bag and taped to the inside of a sunny window for a few days when badly yellowed. That does not,, however, address issues sometimes found on older decals as out-of-register, wrong colors, or just bogus markings! Worst thing seems to be if they somehow get severely curled, before you can treat them! Ed
  7. FWIW, In late May, I ordered some stuff from Hannant's, to be shipped to Atlanta, GA USA. Package made it from Britain in 4 days, sat somewhere in New Jersey for 10 days, then finally was sent to New York. A few days later, it finally arrived. Not much is moving in a timely fashion right now, except perhaps what Amazon has on hand. It may simply be a shortage of work force at each stage of travel. Ed
  8. Best thin I've found is to overcoat various panel shades of Alclad II with one of Alclad II's own clear overcoats, flat, matte, semi-matte, light sheen, etc. If you have multiple panels and want to sort of blend them altogether and tone them down, I use a 5% mix of Alclad II Aluminum and 95% Alclad thinner. You can pretty much get whatever degree of shine (or no shine that you like. Here's a couple of mine using those techniques: Ed
  9. Also, there was some sort of problem a couple of years back where some Alclads had a bad batch run. Can't remember if it was the original Alclad or right after it became Alclad II. You might try an on-line search... Ed
  10. Habu2, It is petroleum based. All I know is it has no effect on Model Master enamels, Alclad II metallics, or on regular clear plastic or vacuformed canopies. That being said, I use a cotton Q-tip, which after dipping into the Goo Gone is squeezed against the side of the bottle, then used , just damp, on the model. I also wipe the excess away quickly, as it cleans away the unwanted masking, decal solvent or what-have-you at once. Here's a shot showing a turret on my XB-40 build after using the Goo Gone to remove excess decal setting solution. The lighter green frami
  11. Alclad II Aqua Gloss. Doesn't affect the BMF at all, as long as you are doing a shiny bird. I often overcoat that with one of the other Alclad II clear, such as light sheen, semi-flat, etc. to tone it down if needed. Ed
  12. FWIW, I just ordered some more paints from True North, two days ago, and they just notified me this morning that the paints have shipped, so I guess they're good to go. Ed
  13. Since MM seems to be going away, may I suggest True North paints... Ed
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