Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About TheRealMrEd

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 04/06/1944

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Interests
    1/72 US Military airplanes.
    Park Flyer R/C.

Recent Profile Visitors

3,934 profile views
  1. Can't speak to the paints you are using, but when I shoot Alclad II Chrome or Polished Aluminum, etc. it's over a very glossy coat of black enamel. EVERY defect will show, as will orange peel, dust, improperly sanded parts, etc. The model should be as close to polished as you can get it BEFORE adding ANY paint. Also, the chrome usually has to be put on in very thin coats (you can always add more later!), because, like a mirror, the chrome reflects off of the black for that super look.. Ed
  2. For any 1/72 builders, why wait for a conversion kit? You might be interested in my in progress F4H-1 Prototype kitbash of a Hasegawa F4B/N kit: HERE It contains NO aftermarket or conversion kit parts... Ed
  3. It comes up now and then, whether it is possible to duplicate vac-u-formed canopies. The answer is yes! I will show you how I do it. First off, the canopy you wish to replicate has to be closed at both ends. If it has already been cut out of it's plastic sheet, you are going to have to devise a way to make it hold a runny sort of product. One way might be to glue plastic pieces to the part that needs to be sealed off, using a glue such as G-S cement, which can later be dissolved with 91% rubbing alcohol, without harming the plastic. BEWARE -- THIS METHOD WILL NOT W
  4. Hello again, seems like only a few days ago that I was writing up last year's build log. Time flies! But, I was determined to make the best of this rather trying year... Anyway, here are this years completed models, although a couple were shelf queens from yesteryear. First up, the Lift Here Models Piper PA-58 -- last of the Mustangs: For those interested, the build thread is HERE Next up, the first Great Blue Whale, the XA3D-1 conversion of the Hasegawa A3B: XA3D-1 Build Thread HER
  5. Come on now -- if you ever hope to grow up to be a kit-basher or scratch builder, you're gonna need all those spare parts someday! Ed
  6. For the build threads about correcting the Trumpeter 1/72 F-100 series mentioned above, here are the links: F-100C F-100D F-100F Wild Weasel When all the kinks are worked out, they are very accurate. Ed
  7. Just looking for the above answer... Ed
  8. You might try googling TheRealMrEd and follow a link to any of the models that come up. Almost all have a detailed build, lots of pics and cover a whole lot of basis ideas on kit-building, which is the reason I do the build threads in the first place. Some of the models are here on ARC as well, with links to the build threads... Ed
  9. I've also used MM paints forever, and have loaded up on some. I also love Colourcoats, and have several colors, but they are sometimes hard to come by in the U.S. My new backup supplier has become True North Paints, and they are great replacements for MM -- even using the same size glass bottles, which speeds up the airbrushing process... True North Paints Ed
  10. Hi jrbm, Here is a link to my thread on casting clear resin canopies Link You may want to read the whole thread, as my first or second efforts didn't turn out as well as I would have liked, but the third one did really great. There is a discussion and some great research by a fellow modeler about which resins are least likely to yellow -- well worth your perusal! These are some other great tips there also, about curing your silicone mold and preheating the clear casting resin before mixing, which aids in casting thin parts, like canopies! Ed
  11. +1 for Perfect Plastic Putty AND 3m Acrylic... Ed
  12. I often use Alclad II's range of Flat, etc. topcoats to hand brush just over the decals, with no probs. Ed
  13. You might consider this... True North Paints are your friends... Ed
  14. FWIW, As far as cracking and splintering go, I've only had one set of decals which I couldn't save by using a couple of coats of Microscale Liquid Decal film, applied with a brush. Also, only a couple have failed to respond to being placed in a ziploc bag and taped to the inside of a sunny window for a few days when badly yellowed. That does not,, however, address issues sometimes found on older decals as out-of-register, wrong colors, or just bogus markings! Worst thing seems to be if they somehow get severely curled, before you can treat them! Ed
  • Create New...