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About TheRealMrEd

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 04/06/1944

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  • Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Interests
    1/72 US Military airplanes.
    Park Flyer R/C.

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  1. Since MM seems to be going away, may I suggest True North paints... Ed
  2. Refer to this discussion HERE Easiest way is to figure which a/c you want to model, check serial number and go from there to answer your question. Don't forget the "canted" landing gear based on serial nos also. Ed
  3. Actually, you have two good options: 1) Overcoat the aircraft with ANY of the Alclad II clear topcoats, preferably Light Sheen (ALC-311) , or Semi-Matt (ALC-312). Polished Aluminum on the F-84E on the right, ditto over-coated with Light Sheen on the F-84B on the left: or 2) shoot a thin layer of around 95% Alclad II thinner, mixed with around 5% plain Alclad II Aluminum (you can play with the ratio -- you won't hurt it -- start light first), and shoot it over the top. YF-105A shown below has several Alclad II colors over-coated this way to sort of kill the shine, and reduce the darker extreme colors at the same time. The lightest color is the Polished Aluminum (originally): Duck Soup! Ed
  4. You didn't say that the new painting was done from the same bottle of paint as the original. Could you have a bad bottle? I would test paint a test mule with another color from the earlier bottle if not the same, and also test the newer bottle/batch and try to pin down the quality aspect. Also make certain that no different thinner, etc. made it's way into the picture. Could just be a batch or poorly ground paint pigment. Ed
  5. Hi cf18hornet, I just checked the website and it IS acting strangely! However, I suspect that this is just due to the odd times we live in and that people or materials may not be able to make it into the production facility. Give it a little time and check with them again. Unless there was a major family problem or something, these paints are way too good to drop off the face of the planet! Also, I see no reason why eventually you should not be able to get them in Canada via land delivery. With the border being closed, it is a problem now. And as we all know, these days you probably couldn't even send mother' milk via air, even though they're building the aircraft with L'ion batteries, a FAR more dangerous thing, potentially! Anyway, good luck, Ed
  6. Aaron, I'm in the same boat as you, and have already done the homework. Go HERE: to True North Paints. They are around $5.00 per bottle, but they brush, aircrash and cover very well. Ed
  7. Alclad II's own ALC-600 Aqua Gloss Clear ... Ed
  8. I like the Iwata HP-SB+. It's side mount allows for both gravity feed or siphon feed, and like most of the other Iwata's, it's easy to clean. I got mine years ago with a Hobby Lobby 50% off coupon. Ed
  9. I think you are looking for https://www.ffonts.net/Long-BeachUSN.font. I believe it is a sixty-degree font, not 45.... Ed
  10. Steve, Here is a link that may be of interest: True North Paints Ed
  11. Also quite good for hand-brushing....True North Paints Ed
  12. Ditto all the above. I use ONLY Testor's enamel thinners to thin the paint, but use cheapie lacquer thinner or mineral spirits to clean the air (or hand) brush... never had the problem. Ed
  13. For the past few years, USPS has been hiring "non-career" employees. Used to be you started as a PTF or part-timer (6-hr day), but eventually would become "regular, with full shifts and a career path. Many of these newer hires have no career path, hence it's "just a job", an many just don't care. Not sure that I can blame them... Ed Retired USPS "regular"
  14. Members 2,726 705 posts Gender:Male Location:Marietta, Georgia USA Interests:1/72 US military aircraft and small scale r/c aircraft. Report post #27 Posted 43 minutes ago If someone is sincere enough, you can convert the 4-blade props to three blades. For those interested, here's how I did it in my P2V-3 Neptune build a couple of years back: First, add the needed length to the props (sawing them off square first, if need be): Next, sand the blade's airfoils, and needed tip shape (based on the old prop, probably). Note that above right, sometimes you knock off a tip. That's why I made the fourth prop blades, as spares. Next, short lengths of stretched plastic sprue are used to fill three of the four slots in the 4-bladed hubs and backplates: Above right, my cheapie prop alignment tool, a printed out circle, divided by thirds and fourths, glued to a cardboard box with apiece of packaging tape, and a hole punched for the prop center shaft. Parts "A" are glued on with white glue, to set the tip center of rotation (so that the tips are all on the same plane of travel), and parts "B" set the desired pitch of the blades. Next, a triangle file is used to gouge out new mounting holes for the 3-bladed prop, in both the hub and back plate: Above right, all three blades are glued to the back plate, with their arc of swing and pitch all set the same. Next the modified hub is added: Which, above right, gives you a new 3-bladed prop, with lengthened blades, from the old 4-bladed prop... Ed
  15. These were built years ago from the IPMS Quarterly article referenced above, in 1/72 scale: Keith Svenson's article is very clear about what is needed! Ed
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