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TheRealMrEd

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About TheRealMrEd

  • Rank
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  • Birthday 04/06/1944

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Interests
    1/72 US Military airplanes.
    Park Flyer R/C.

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  1. TheRealMrEd

    Making water slide decals

    Ditto what andyf117 said about printing on dark -- just about HAS to be on white decal sheet. If you were printing on lighter-colored backgrounds of a model, you could make two sets of decal, and put the second one atop the first (when dry) to double the color intensity, like I did with the "FS-059" on the XF-84H below: Ed
  2. I noticed in a thread back in 2017 that you had a 1/72 Hasegawa F-110A that you were willing to share the F-4D style nose sensor.   If you are not going to build the F-110A version, would you be willing to sell/trade the kit or just the kit decals?  I have a Fujimi F-4B that I could put the decals on, as I am trying to end up with an F-110A.

     

    Ed

     

    TheRealMrEd

    1. tsculton

      tsculton

      Sorry bud. It was only a partial kit that I had. It had been donated to the nursery my wife worked at and the kids lost a number of the parts and the decals before she was able to retrieve it.

       

    2. TheRealMrEd

      TheRealMrEd

      Okay --thanks anyway -- worth a shot!

       

      Ed

       

  3. TheRealMrEd

    Monogram F-105F Wild Weasel M.O.H. flight

    Hello everyone! Back for another small update. Hope this one posts with no problems!!! First up, the AGM-45 missiles Hasegawa Weapons Set #4) needed to to have new mounting holes drilled into their bodies to accommodate the kits outer missile pylons. I just ignored the existing holes; they'll be under the pylon and out of sight: Note that the missiles mount directly to the pylon itself. Ditto the CBU-30's below. Note that the explosives inside are called CBU-30's while the outer container, shown below, was called the SUU-30. Some had a less pointy front end. The whole things was usually referred to by the name of the explosives WITHIN the SUU-30, ie. CBU-24, CBU30, CBU-52, etc. The SUU-30's from Hasegawa Weapons Set #2 have the mounting lugs aligned with the top fin of the casing.To mount these on the inner F-105 pylons, I had to drill new holes on a new centerline between the fins: Figure A shows the original mounting lugs, figure B shows the new holes, and the arrows point to the wires CA'd into the kit's pylons to hold the CBU just proud of the pylon. Sadly, I didn't notice this fit problem until AFTER I had painted and decal-ed the CBU, so the data decal are 1/8 rotation too high, rather than on the side. Note that on the 105, the CBU's also mounted directly to the pylon, with no other launch rail type device used. Since the kit's inner pylon's bomb shackles were too far apart, I added new ones, using spares from a Trumpeter F-100 kit. These are fiddly as heck, but I felt I had to do it... Figure A shows the Trumpeter bomb shackles and the arrows point to the small grooves I filed into the pylons to accept them. The front was added to the same area as the kit pylon, and I ignored the rear kit shackle, as I could find no pictures indicating whether it was removed or left as is for this weapon mount. Any advice from those informed on the matter are welcome! Anyway, here they are when done. I have painted the bomb shackles the same color as the weapon fuse on the CBU (60% silver and 40% gold). That's about it for now. More next time. Ed
  4. TheRealMrEd

    Monogram F-105F Wild Weasel M.O.H. flight

    By not having to re-scribe this kit, and not having to sand away the raised panel lines, the build itself is rather easy -- but the work will be in the paint and details! While this is drying, lots of small items to paint and make ready. Later, Ed BY SPLITTING THE POST IT TWO, I FINALLY GOT IT TO SAVE> GO FIGURE!!!
  5. TheRealMrEd

    Monogram F-105F Wild Weasel M.O.H. flight

    This is a test. Arc system has not let me upload and update for two days -- will be experimenting here!!! Hi all, Just a short update today. Finished the cockpit painting -- used the standard kit items, cause only aftermarket for the two-seater is for the "G" model. Couldn't find a good photo of the rear IP, so just went with the kits' offering: Sorry for the bad pic, but again, holiday visitors meant no proper light setup... Next, cockpit has been installed nose and wings added. No filler was needed, except as described earlier.
  6. TheRealMrEd

    Making water slide decals

    One other word of caution. When printing decals on either clear or white decal film, if you have to trim the decals real close, then it's not uncommon for the edges of the decals to lose a few pixels of color from the edges of the printed part, due to the water seeping under the final top sealer. One solution for this problem is to try and make the background color try to match the paint color of the model. Then, you can trim a slightly larger edge of film, and if you lose a little, it will not be as obvious. As I build US aircraft, I found a color swatch of many of the FS numbered colors that I merged into my Photoshop copy. Another possible solution to this would be to paint a piece of white plastic with your needed background color of paint, and then scan that into the computer, You could then sample that scanned item as a color source for your decals' background. Hope this makes sense. Ed
  7. Hello, Didn't think I'd be able to join in, but here I am after all. Just happens that I needed an early F-105F for my Wild Weasel collection, and since I was fortunate enough to find a sheet of 1/72 Wolfpak decals "Sambuster & Tyke", which has marking for Leo Thorsness Medal Of Honor mission of April 1967, here we go. References for this build are the downloadable instructions for the decal sheet, as well as the Scale Models issue from March of 1985, which describes the difference in sensors, etc. for the Vietnam F-105 Wild Weasel aircraft. First a picture of the kit -- not to be confused with Monogram's earlier and very strange F-105 kit, which I seem to recall was an old box-scale kit. Forgive me if my memory is not accurate on this. The first order of business is to remove the external wing reinforcement panels from the top and bottom sides of each wing. Since this kit is made of silver plastic, the original panel lines etc. still show up after being sanded off. While this is great if you choose to re-scribe all panel lines (I have done a few!), it is not good for recognizing when you have sanded the details away -- without sanding too far into the model. To help with this problem, I surround the area to be sanded with sticky masking tape (in this case 3M's safe release painter's tape), to within about 2mm of the detail I want to keep. Then, I scribe all the panel lines with a #11 X-acto blade, just to I can touch them up later. As seen on the wing on the left, I have used a sanding stick (320 grit?) to sand down just until the tape starts to "feather edge", while trying to follow -- not flatten -- the contour of the wing. If you compare the sanded wing (A) to the untouched wing (B), you will see that the wing on the left seems to still have the reinforcement panel present. This is not so; it is an optical illusion, and the very reason I used the masking tape trick to keep from sanding too deep! The top sides of the wings (below) show the results of this process after sanding and priming if needed, more sanding could be done, but in this case, the masking tape trick did it's job: The arrow shows the wingtip antenna that needs to be removed, while (A) shows where the little "stalk" antenna has been removed. By the way, these two little spots were one of the only two places where any filler was needed on this kit, the other being on the nose, to fill the unwanted six exhaust ports on the right side of the nose: The proper area on the nose was taped just like the wings, the 3M spot putty was used to fill the six unwanted holes. After drying, the filler was sanded down until the tape started to feather edge, and then I knew when to quit. The nose was then slightly re-scribed and then primed. Next the wing halves were glued together, then the appropriate areas of the main gear well (including the wing spar) were primed and the paint FS 34151 Interior Green. For this whole model, I will use Alclad II grey primer, and some Alclad II metallic colors, For all other colors except for the camo colors, I'll use Model Master enamels. For the camo colors, I'll use Colourcoats enamels: Please forgive the poor picture, but I had guests for the Thanksgiving Day holiday, and couldn't set up proper lighting. Next the needed air scoops were added to the fuselage sides (A) and the little exhaust scoop (B) where shown. Please note that the "B" scoop is for exhaust, hence the openings face rearward! Now, I'm close to closing up the fuselage, except for painting, assembling and installing the cockpit: (A) shows the unglued wing spar, and (C) is the added nose weight, glued in with canopy white glue. (B) shows the nose gear well, which I glued to one side with liquid glue. I then held the fuselage halves together, to align the gear well properly from side to side, before the glue sat up. Otherwise, it would have ended up off to one side, despite the depressed area of the kit that was supposed to help align itself! Well, that's all for now -- off to paint the cockpit! Later, Ed
  8. TheRealMrEd

    Making water slide decals

    It would be easier if your printing software allowed for setting the left and upper page margins. In such a case, you could print the first needed decals close to the upper left, the next batch further toward the center, etc. and/or set the top of the margin further down as useage of each page progresses. I use an Epson printer and an old copy of photoshop (CS4) and that's the way I do it. Every now and then, you'd probably need to trim the top of the sheet level again... Ed
  9. TheRealMrEd

    Mask cutting machine and software

    Hi Bill, The Cricut software is on-line on their website, maybe Cricut.com? You upload your files (I think my daughter uses .PNG files, as they are easier to enlarge or shrink), and then massage them as needed. . I don't think it costs anything extra to use. Ed
  10. TheRealMrEd

    Mask cutting machine and software

    My daughter bought a machine called a Cricut, which is very similar. I'm going to try a shot at some 18" scale 1/72 letter and numbers soon, but here's a link to my F8A Crusader built, where I used the machine to cut out pieces of a scratch-built ejection seat from thin plastic card. The process and artwork are shown here: F8A Build Just another use for a neat gadget! Ed
  11. TheRealMrEd

    How is Tyndall AFB

    Also, the upside down F-15 was cropped from a larger photo, showing it was part of a circle of static display aircraft, not an active duty bird... Ed
  12. TheRealMrEd

    How is Tyndall AFB

    This morning I saw some film on Fox news that says the base commander says that there is not one single habitable building on the base, including housing and hangars. I would think that the USAF might decide to let this one go, except where else could you put training and coastal defense for the Gulf? Ed
  13. TheRealMrEd

    Hasegawa F-35B 1/72 - new tool?

    Agreed Hemspilot, As far as the theory. However, even on less than "full-weight" missions, STOVAL is pretty much always used, except at air shows, limited take-off space etc., with the direct reasoning,of saving fuel costs for us good old taxpayers PLUS not having to logistically move as much fuel to forward bases, aircraft carriers, etc. is very much on each service's mind these days... Ed
  14. TheRealMrEd

    Hasegawa F-35B 1/72 - new tool?

    Basically, it's a fuel issue. It takes a lot more fuel to go VTOL than STOVL, where you have a little air flowing over the wings, providing lift. However, like the Harrier, the idea was to have a small deck or unimproved landing site/roadway capability for forward deployment if needed. Ed
  15. TheRealMrEd

    Hasegawa F-35B 1/72 - new tool?

    Hi Solo, This may help some, but I wouldn't count on a better view very soon. First off, when the F-35B lands, the nozzle is rotated to the normal position at once, to allow for taxing. To get a better shot, you'd have to be standing at the rear of the aircraft, whether landing or on take-off, with a camera, and be either an official or duty airman with a camera on the flight line -- good luck with that. Or, you might pray that some official allows the airplane to be so positioned at an airshow or open house somewhere. Unless of course, someone on active duty can help us out without being "keel-hauled"! In the meantime, this is the best that I could do, but be aware it may be of the prototype setup, vs the actual service nozzle: For other issues, please feel free to consult the build thread, as linked above. Ed PS -- Solo, as an afterthought, it would be hard to do the in-flight thing, because on landing or take-off, the weapons bay doors are open except for right after landing, and just before transitioning to VTOL landing. Refer to on-line You Tube videos and you'll see what I mean...
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