Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About TheRealMrEd

  • Rank
    Rivet Counter
  • Birthday 04/06/1944

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Interests
    1/72 US Military airplanes.
    Park Flyer R/C.

Recent Profile Visitors

3,146 profile views
  1. TheRealMrEd

    F-100c Super Sabre - 1/72 - Trumpeter

    Hi Bobo, Here's a blow-up of the same pic. What you are seeing is sort of an illusion, based on the reflection of the sun on the lighter-colored leaves of the stock F-100 burner can: Don't feel bad, I have made the exact same mistake (different photo) and also had helpful folks point out the error. Below are a couple more pics offering the same illusion: We still like your workmanship, nevertheless. Best Wishes, Ed
  2. TheRealMrEd

    F-100c Super Sabre - 1/72 - Trumpeter

    Hi Bobo-- A check over at the serial number repository Here: reads as follows: "2091 (MSN 217-352) was with 435th TFS Jul 1956. To MASDC Dec 6, 1971. To Turkish AF Jan 8, 1973 as 54-2091, code 3-091. Returned to USA Aug 1989. Registered to Tracor Flight Systems Jul 1989 as N2011M. To Global Aerosapce May 1992. To Albert Hansen of Mojave, CA as N2011M Sep 9, 1998. Now with Yanks Air Museum, Chino, CA." The Turks and other forces used them after 1973, just NOT the regular USAF. Ed
  3. TheRealMrEd

    F-100c Super Sabre - 1/72 - Trumpeter

    Bobo, One place is Here: A search on line of "Use of -102 burner cans on F-100" will yield others. General consensus is that they were first used on F-100's circa 1973 or so, although there is some mention of an ADC F-100C that may have been so equipped haven't seen one myself. An Air Force enlisted man got a ton of money for this suggestion, so the date is pretty firm. Beware of museum aircraft and other peoples' models which may not have been done correctly, either accidentally or by design. The reason I know this is because I researched this point thoroughly for the "C" and "D"models I built, hoping to use the F-102 can, but as neither subject was an Air Guard aircraft, I had no luck there. I do have a nice pic of an Ohio Air Guard "D" that I took in 1973 that I may yet build one day... Ed
  4. TheRealMrEd

    F-100c Super Sabre - 1/72 - Trumpeter

    Hi Bobo! You're right, the Trumpeter 1/72 F-100C has quite a few faults in the kit, bit you've done a very nice job, particularly with the detailing. The only thing I question is your use of the F-102 type afterburner can, as these were only used later on than these marking, and only in the Air Guard ( not regular USAF), as far as I know. Continued success in modeling... Ed
  5. TheRealMrEd

    Is it necessary to seal decals?

    I use the Alclad II line of topcoats as they range from gloss, sem-gloss, semi-matt and matt (or flat). I use the Aqua Gloss Clear topcoat over Alclad II bare metal finishes, with no loss of metal effect. Just do NOT use enamel clear topcoats, unless there is a new chemical formula. Sll the models in my case over 30 years old that feature large areas of white have yellowed, just like old decals... Two examples: Aqua Gloss Clear over Alclad II and decals: Aqua Gloss Clear over the decals, then Alclad II matt overall: Happy modeling, Ed
  6. TheRealMrEd

    wait time after applying decals

    I usually wait at least 4 hours, but I'm in a humidity and climate-controlled room. In damper climates or times, it may take longer. My preference is overnight. However, I technically, you should start with MicroSet, not Sol. The set goes on before the decal, and the MicroSol is used later if the decal hasn't snuggled down. I usually start with the SET, wait a couple of hours, and the hit the decals (not the bare metal paint!) with Walther's setting solution. It's a lot hotter than the Sol, so I figure if I'm gonna do it, I'm going all the way! I have found that the MicroSol doesn't work as well for the really tough curves as the Walthers does, sample below: Good luck, Ed
  7. TheRealMrEd

    My airbrush just died- recommendations?

    One vote for my Iwata HP SB+. Since it's a side-mount, you can use either gravity feed or siphon, depending upon which bottle or cup you choose. Otherwise, ditto the earlier Iwata comments. Ed
  8. Hello, I've been looking for some reasonably accurate 3-views of the prototype YF-105A. All I've been able to find are fuselage side profiles, nothing with a top view or the wings. I heard that there were some 1/50 scale and some 1/48 scale drawing floating around in Japan, but have not been able to track them down. Ditto the Y1B-17, looking for decent, somewhat detailed 3 views. Also looking for a copy of the IPMS mag where someone did the Academy B-17B conversion, as I wasn't and IPMS member at that time. Any help or suggestions on books, etc. would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, Ed
  9. TheRealMrEd

    What are your top 5 dream model kits?

    New tool ACCURATE 1/72 F-84F Thunderstreak Accurate B-57 A, B and G in 1/72 Accurate B-45A, B & C in 1/72 Ed
  10. Well, once again it's time for the year-end ritual of tallying up the builds. I have more completed than actually built this year, as I dug in and finished a couple from the Shelf Of Doom along the way. Some are unusual subjects or even conversions; some are almost out of the box. In some cases, I had to develop my own artwork, which I have included in the build threads for any who may be interested. And now, the ledger: First off, a Shelf of Doom completion, the Nostalgic Plastic resin rendition of Anigrand.'s 1/72 YF-102A prototype: This was done for a Shelf Of Doom type group build over on ARC: YF-102A Build Next up is the 1/72 Matchbox RF-101A, with some much-needed refinements: This was done on BritModeler for a Matchbox Group Build: RF-101A Build Next, the aged 1/72 Monogram P-36 kit, done up as a P-36A: This was also a model started years ago, but completed only this year: P-36A RFI Next we have the brand new (at the time) 1/72 Hasegawa F-35B in Marine Corps markings, with a couple of tweaks: This was sort of a kit review, with a few small mods for realism: F-35B Build Then the 1/72 Maintrack XF-88 vacuform kit done up as the rarely-seen XF-88B: There were more than a few challenges with this one! XF-88B Build Now, as another years-old project, we have the conversion of the Tamiya F-84G to an F-84E, this time in the most colorful livery of the several F-84E's flown by George E. Laven: The actual mods to convert from a "G" to an "E" model are covered in the build thread. As you might imagine, the extensive decals were the hard part here! F-84E RFI It was about here that I realized that I had become a George Laven groupie, and that I'd just have to do all his major models! Next up, the Muroc Models conversion of the Academy F-8E Crusader in 1/72, backdated to an F08A (F8U-1 in old Navy-speak): The Build and RFI are combined here: F8U-1 Build & RFI Back to George Laven again, this time for his most colorful 1/72 Revell F-104C: He had a couple of other renditions of the F-104, but I thought this one was the "bees knees": F-104C Build Then, another Laven aircraft, this time his First P-38E #76, from the RS 1/72 P-38E kit: Build thread for this one is here: #76 P-38E Build And now for the second less-known of Laven's aircraft, the F-84B, "Itsy-Bitsy III", this time a conversion of the Heller 1/72 F-84G: There were several steps to the conversion, as well as the custom artwork. All are to be seen here: F-84B Build Another of Laven's birds, this time the 1/72 Hobby Boss P-38L-5-LO done up as "Itsy-Bitsy II": The arrow in the pic, and other mods are explained in the build thread, found here: P-38L-5-LO Build Next, the least-known of Laven's aircraft, this time a modified Trumpeter 1/72 F-100D kit done up as the aircraft which Laven flew, leading the first F-100 mission into the north, during the Vietnam War: The tiny white stripes between the colored stripes probably did not exist in real life, but as the only known photo of this aircraft known to exist is terrible, I took the liberty. Anyway, here's the build thread: F-100D Build Now something a little different, this time Anigrands 1/72 resin XF-84H Thunderscreech: This was another "Shelf Queen" and as such, not a lot of build to show, but here's the RFI: XF-84H Done And finally, to round up the year, an addition to my Wild Weasels collection, a 1/72 Monogram rendition of Thorenson's Medol-Of-Honor mission F-105F Thunderchief: This was just about "out-of-the-box" with some aftermarket decals and weapons: F-105F WW Build I hope you enjoy these models as much as I did researching and building them, and a Happy New Year for your modeling efforts!!! Ed
  11. TheRealMrEd

    1/72 Scale F-8 Crusader Reccomendations

    Don't forget the Muroc Models conversion sets for the F-8A and F-8C, using the 1/72 Academy kit: Ed
  12. TheRealMrEd

    USAF Lettering and numbers decals - NMF edged?

    Hey Martin, Another way is to cut out the black decals, and using ruler and sharp hobby blade, leave an even clearance of decal backing paper/film around all the letters. Place the decals on some two-sided sticky tape, (Scotch make one, there are many others), then lay they sticky-taped oversize onto Tamiya or your other favorite light-tack tape, and cut out the letters along the oversized edge, and there you have the masks for the aluminum outlines. Place these tapes masks on the model after applying the bare-metal finish, but before shooting the orange/red/yellow/other layer of color. When done, remove the tape masks and apply the black decals as usual -- the sticky tape on their back won't matter as it's only on the decal backing. You can also do the same with the stars-and-bars or other insignia. Ed
  13. TheRealMrEd

    Monogram F-105F Wild Weasel M.O.H. flight

    Canopies on, minor blips touched up -- and she's done! Except for removing the wing reinforcement panels and the wingtip antenna, adding new wingtip lights from white glue, and adding weapons from the Hasegawa Weapons sets mentioned abobe, this bit is bone stock OOB. I really enjoyed building this old girl, as I hadn't built one in years. Even though the kit has raised panel lines, it doesn't appear very different from the fully scribed ones I've built, and I'm glad to add it to the Sam killers collection. Ed
  14. TheRealMrEd

    Monogram F-105F Wild Weasel M.O.H. flight

    Thanks Cap'n, Next, a little oil streaking on the bottom, very light: Next the landing gear are added. Note where the link goes on the front gear -- the instructions are vague. Also, the tailpipe and afterburner petals have been installed: Next the gear doors: Below, figure "A" shows where the afterburner petal mount fairings have been hand-painted to match the scheme, and white glue has been built up for the relocated wingtip lights, "B": Next, weapons and fuel tank have been added, as well as two antennae (arrows): Another shot of the cockpit and the red anti-collision light atop the fuselage. All the colored lights were painted silver, then over-coated with MM Acrylic transparent paints of the appropriate colors: Next, a shot of the newly-unmasked bare-metal sensors on the tail, as well as the blue right wingtip light: A shot showing the now unmasked bare metal gun muzzle panel, as well as the black wash used over the surface of the model to pop out indented detail, showing particularly the gun exhaust ports: Well except for gluing on the canopies and last minute detail inspection she is done!. However, am awaiting new 5000K light bulbs for the photo booth, so final pics will have to wait a day or two. (They were supposed to be delivered yesterday, but so far today, no joy...) Back asap! Ed
  15. TheRealMrEd

    Monogram F-105F Wild Weasel M.O.H. flight

    Hello, Another brief update. The stock kit cockpit has been completed and painted: Next, the entire model has been sprayed with Alclad II grey primer, then the gun muzzle area and the sensors on the tail were painted Alclad II aluminum, and when dry were masked with Parafilm "M" then trimmed with a #11 X-Acto blade. Then, the underside was painted FS# 36622 gray. All camo colors for this build will be Colourcoats Enamels, because they are thin and cover well: When dry, the model gets turned over and the FS 30219 Tan is shot more or less everywhere it's supposed to end up. It covers so well, only a thin coat is needed, so this layer doesn't have to be masked to avoid later paint build-up: At this point, I decided to try something new. Having read about the Comp-O-Stik tape (sort of a poly tape used by hockey players?), I decided to make my paint masks by applying the tape to the model, drawing the desired pattern onto the tape, and then removing the tape and cutting out the mask. This also would provide BOTH sides of the mask, for later color change masking. Normally, the masks are cut from paper, and then I use a double-sided servo tape, cut into small pieces. These are then stuck to the UNDERSIDE of the masks. Then the other sticky side of the servo tape is stuck to the BACKSIDE of Tamiya tape or whatever you trust on your model. This give a strong grab on the paper, and a weaker grab on the painted surface. In this case, I just substituted the clear Comp-O-Stik tape. It was right about here that I discover A GREAT BIG MISTAKE.!!! I have been modeling for more than 65 years off and on. I have also built several other of these exact kits. However the difference was, all those other kits had the raised panel lines completely re-scribed, and this one didn't. The problem is, when re-scribing, there is a necessity to wash crud from the scribed lines, etc. over and over, which tends to remove all the oils used in the mold. Since I did not do that re-scribing process on this model, I NEVER WASHED OFF THE MOLD OIL -- definitely a rookie mistake!! What's that old saying about "getting too big for your britches...". I decided not to strip the whole model and start over, but just to touch up areas with the airbrush after lifting the tape to remove the masks. Other than the extra work required for many touch-ups, it turned out okay. There was a lot more free-hand airbrushing than I wanted, but it turned out okay for me, but it has been a VERY long time since I have had a paint lift problem. Oh well. Above, all the painting has been completed, then the model was shot with a layer of Alclad II Aqua Gloss acrylic, and the the few decals or this aircraft were added. Now more details and fiddlies to work on. More later. Ed