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About TheRealMrEd

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 04/06/1944

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Interests
    1/72 US Military airplanes.
    Park Flyer R/C.

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3,276 profile views
  1. That would make an interesting pairing with the Fiat (91?) that the Army was looking at for close air support, back in the day when then air force wanted only to play with nukes and be all strategic. Congress finally decided that the Navy could take care of it's own, including the Marines, and the Air Force would take care of tactical air missions and close air support for the Army, and the Army would end up flying only light observation aircraft and helicopters. Of course, there has been a little mission creep since... Ed
  2. Thanks, Cajun21, It was indeed a labor --repeat-- labor of love! Ed
  3. If you are not spraying in a paint booth, could something else be in the air -- silicone sprays, perhaps an electronic deodorizer? You could also try handling the model with only white cotton gloves after the Dawn wash job.... Ed
  4. "Instructions? Instructions? We don't need no stinkin' instructions!!" Kidding aside, look up the instructions on-line for a Special Hobby XP-56. Most resin kits are simple enough to build by just looking at the shapes. If you can figure out the cockpit, the rest usually isn't that hard. Also, most resin kits that DO have instructions, the instructions are VERY simplistic. Ed
  5. Well, not to say I'm old-fashioned, but I still have a flip phone, with messaging disabled and I don't text or send/receive e-mails on the phone. If you miss me on the phone, you gotta call back -- or send an e-mail to the computer(s). Throughout the house for 4 family members, we have 5 computers on a hard-wired network and 2 more on wi-fi, plus HTPC not yet integrated. Heck, I just finally bit the bullet and changed over to Windows 10 two months ago -- a move I still sort of regret. Oh, and I don't use the phone to take photos -- got a Pentax and a ton of lenses for that. Also, I've NEVER been on Facebook, Twitter, etc. -- why would I want to tell 500,000 of my closest "friends" that I'll be out of town for a few days? It may be a little silly, but when the thought ppolice come looking, I'll be a little harder to find than most... (LOL) Ed
  6. I have stopped going on Hyperscale, as well as 1/72 Modeler, since they converted to Tapatalk. I don't WANT to join anything else, and I do all my modeling communications via computer, not phone. The straw that broke the camel's back for me was that someone with a Tapatalk account was using they same screen name, even though he apparently doesn't do modeling sites. I've been using TheRealMrEd since AOL in 1994, and I'm sure not gonna change now. Any site that changes to Tapatalk loses me, period. Ditto S.V.319 above, it's here and Britmodeler for me! Ed
  7. Thanks Dutch, I'll be posting up a review of the YF-105 I that I used this on,shortly. Ed
  8. Just a quick update -- looks like I hit it on my 2nd try: Masters on top row, final products on bottom row. Ed
  9. Hello all, Since I am much too lazy to duplicate the same material here, I would like to simply provide a link to a thread I've started over on Britmodeler.com to cast clear resin canopies for the 1/72 Revellogram F-105D Thunderchief and for the Muroc Conversions of the F-8A and F-8C Crusader of the 1/72 Academy kit: Resin Cast Canopy This project is occurring not only because I need these pieces, but for the sake of modeling research, about how to do the masters, make the molds, and most importantly, what kind of resin and what technique. Anyone interested is welcome to look in and add their musings or knowledge if they have been down this road. I will reply either to this forum or that, as I check both frequently. Ed
  10. Doesn't seem to bother either Alclad II or Colourcoats or Model Master enamels -- can't speak for anything else. I usually mask canopies with either Tamiya tape or Parafilm "M", and I use the Goo Gone for removing residue. Ed
  11. If you're into casting your own parts, www.moldputty.com has a clear casting material. I've used it in the past to cast clear parts -- works great! Ed
  12. Totally agree with Mstor! Nine times out of 10, if I get that message, it has to do with the DNS server. Sometimes I can just reset my cable modem and correct the problem, as I then get a new "lease" or connection. Ed
  13. Hi, JackMan, I used a couple of layers of Future floor wax, what ever it's called now. And for filler, these days I mostly use Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, found at auto parts stores in the US. Here's another example. When I bought the conversion set for the Meng F-102 to turn it into a TF-102A, I just knew the canopy was going to give me trouble. But, it was just a hurry up, just in case kind of thing, so I didn't take much time with it. Sure enough, I screwed up the canopy, but one day I'll use my still-to-be-cleaned-up version to complete the build, (I hope!) Ed
  14. I've found that decals sealed with the Aqua Gloss can be masked over with Parafilm "M", with no lifting problems. Sometimes I use masking tape on top of Parafilm "M", the cut out along the tape edge and remove the excess Parafilm "M". Some of these techniques are shown in my current YF-105A Thunderchief build: YF-105A Ed
  15. Yep! I recommend the Durham's! JackMan, that was probably my P2V-3 Neptune build that you saw... Ed
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