Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums

TheRealMrEd

Members
  • Content Count

    169
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About TheRealMrEd

  • Rank
    Rivet Counter
  • Birthday 04/06/1944

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Interests
    1/72 US Military airplanes.
    Park Flyer R/C.

Recent Profile Visitors

2,976 profile views
  1. TheRealMrEd

    How is Tyndall AFB

    This morning I saw some film on Fox news that says the base commander says that there is not one single habitable building on the base, including housing and hangars. I would think that the USAF might decide to let this one go, except where else could you put training and coastal defense for the Gulf? Ed
  2. TheRealMrEd

    Hasegawa F-35B 1/72 - new tool?

    Agreed Hemspilot, As far as the theory. However, even on less than "full-weight" missions, STOVAL is pretty much always used, except at air shows, limited take-off space etc., with the direct reasoning,of saving fuel costs for us good old taxpayers PLUS not having to logistically move as much fuel to forward bases, aircraft carriers, etc. is very much on each service's mind these days... Ed
  3. TheRealMrEd

    Hasegawa F-35B 1/72 - new tool?

    Basically, it's a fuel issue. It takes a lot more fuel to go VTOL than STOVL, where you have a little air flowing over the wings, providing lift. However, like the Harrier, the idea was to have a small deck or unimproved landing site/roadway capability for forward deployment if needed. Ed
  4. TheRealMrEd

    Hasegawa F-35B 1/72 - new tool?

    Hi Solo, This may help some, but I wouldn't count on a better view very soon. First off, when the F-35B lands, the nozzle is rotated to the normal position at once, to allow for taxing. To get a better shot, you'd have to be standing at the rear of the aircraft, whether landing or on take-off, with a camera, and be either an official or duty airman with a camera on the flight line -- good luck with that. Or, you might pray that some official allows the airplane to be so positioned at an airshow or open house somewhere. Unless of course, someone on active duty can help us out without being "keel-hauled"! In the meantime, this is the best that I could do, but be aware it may be of the prototype setup, vs the actual service nozzle: For other issues, please feel free to consult the build thread, as linked above. Ed PS -- Solo, as an afterthought, it would be hard to do the in-flight thing, because on landing or take-off, the weapons bay doors are open except for right after landing, and just before transitioning to VTOL landing. Refer to on-line You Tube videos and you'll see what I mean...
  5. TheRealMrEd

    Finishing coat on model.

    I use MM and Colourcoats enamels, Alclad II for BMF. I also use the Alclad II clear topcoats, especially the Aqua Gloss, which is acrylic, when I seek a very shiny surface. Also, it does not "kill" the BMF Alclad II shine. One word of caution -- unless the formulas have magically changed over the past to years, NEVER use an enamel clear topcoat! EVERY one I have ever used for the past 40 years has eventually yellowed. Can't tell you how bad that makes a model with a lot of white on it look... Rebuttals welcome. Ed
  6. Title says it all. Buy or trade. Ed
  7. TheRealMrEd

    HG (EUROPE chemical) versus Future Johnson

    You might trying dipping the clear parts in Ammonia (Windex with ammonia will do) or 90+ percent alcohol. Ed EDIT -- sorry, forgot to add that this is to wash the Pledge/Future off of the plastic parts.
  8. TheRealMrEd

    3D printers

    What he said! Ed
  9. TheRealMrEd

    Oderless Mineral Spirits....

    I use MM thinner exclusively to thin MM enamels. Year ago, I tried some other brands of lacquer thinner, with so-so results. I do use LT or mineral spirits to clean brushes or air brushes. Ed
  10. TheRealMrEd

    3D printers

    Just gotta do the research. Some things of importance: Resolution. 3D printers print in layers. When you do a curved surface (like a flying saucer) you get hundreds to thousands of tiny "steps" (think Legos). The resolution determines how fine these steps will be, and the smaller the steps, the longer the object takes to make, which increases the expense factor. Also when done, you have a choice of just sanding the surface smooth, or first filling, THEN sanding the surface smooth. Either way, you're not gonna make any cheap Easter eggs! Next, you have size of the work area, usually 3" x 4" or some such. The larger the area, the more expensive the machine. Ditto, the height of the object you can create. If you're only making small objects, a cheaper machine will probably do. Lastly, you have whether the working base is heated or not -- useful for some items and materials. There are probably more, but you get the idea. These factors are why lots of folks just go to Shapeways, and get the printing done there -- cheaper in many cases. One last consideration, some machines are said to have 3D scanners built in. If so, I can really see that as being useful for quickly creating a print pattern from a 3D master. Good luck, Ed
  11. TheRealMrEd

    Best lighting?

    What I meant to indicate was that No color or other correction was needed with that setup, with the white balance set and the results checked occasionally with a grey card. Unless I'm trying to lighten or darken/ change exposure to better define a certain area of the pic, no adjustment is needed, color or otherwise! I use what I recommend to others, no speculation. In any event, the original question was about best working light for the general hobby area, not about photography! IMHO, the more light you have to work by, the better, EVERY time. Besides, few people shoot the pictures of their models under a bank of OTT lights, no matter how useful they are as bright lights with magnification. Ed
  12. TheRealMrEd

    Best lighting?

    I only use the 5000k lamps when doing the final photo shoot on the models. The rest of the time I do all my work in process shots under the 6500K room lighting on a white surface, and the proper white balance set in the camera. No correction is needed, as I occasionally check with a neutral grey card shot. The ONLY reason I use the 5000K lights on the final shots is to help eliminate the various directional shadows that would obviously exist from just the overhead bulbs. I actually migrated from the 5000K tubes and trust me, the lighting is much better like working in a brightly sunlit room. The difference might seem slight to others, but to my 74-1/2 year-old eyes, the difference is profound! Ed
  13. TheRealMrEd

    Best lighting?

    I was suggesting the 6500K lights for GENERAL workshop illumination as per the question asked by Welsh. The F-84's in my post were photographed under this lighting, BUT with added 5000K fluorescent and/or led 5000K lights. The 6500K is a much better light, for general reading, modeling etc., not necessarily for photography. Two different requirements.... Ed
  14. TheRealMrEd

    Best lighting?

    My $.02 worth: Your best bet for your garage is to go to your friendly big box store and find a cheapie 4-ft fluorescent light fixture. Then grab a couple (or four if your fixture demands it) of GE's #F32T8-SPX65 bulbs, which are a bright daylight 6500 Kelvin, or 6500K. I have these in a den where I shoot all my modeling photos. I also have an OTT magnifier light at my desktop, to shed direct light AND magnification on the work at hand, sometimes paired with a cheapie set of 6X reading glasses for a really closeup look. Best regards, Ed
×