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TheRealMrEd

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About TheRealMrEd

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    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 04/06/1944

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    Male
  • Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Interests
    1/72 US Military airplanes.
    Park Flyer R/C.

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  1. You might consider this... True North Paints are your friends... Ed
  2. FWIW, As far as cracking and splintering go, I've only had one set of decals which I couldn't save by using a couple of coats of Microscale Liquid Decal film, applied with a brush. Also, only a couple have failed to respond to being placed in a ziploc bag and taped to the inside of a sunny window for a few days when badly yellowed. That does not,, however, address issues sometimes found on older decals as out-of-register, wrong colors, or just bogus markings! Worst thing seems to be if they somehow get severely curled, before you can treat them! Ed
  3. FWIW, In late May, I ordered some stuff from Hannant's, to be shipped to Atlanta, GA USA. Package made it from Britain in 4 days, sat somewhere in New Jersey for 10 days, then finally was sent to New York. A few days later, it finally arrived. Not much is moving in a timely fashion right now, except perhaps what Amazon has on hand. It may simply be a shortage of work force at each stage of travel. Ed
  4. Best thin I've found is to overcoat various panel shades of Alclad II with one of Alclad II's own clear overcoats, flat, matte, semi-matte, light sheen, etc. If you have multiple panels and want to sort of blend them altogether and tone them down, I use a 5% mix of Alclad II Aluminum and 95% Alclad thinner. You can pretty much get whatever degree of shine (or no shine that you like. Here's a couple of mine using those techniques: Ed
  5. Also, there was some sort of problem a couple of years back where some Alclads had a bad batch run. Can't remember if it was the original Alclad or right after it became Alclad II. You might try an on-line search... Ed
  6. Habu2, It is petroleum based. All I know is it has no effect on Model Master enamels, Alclad II metallics, or on regular clear plastic or vacuformed canopies. That being said, I use a cotton Q-tip, which after dipping into the Goo Gone is squeezed against the side of the bottle, then used , just damp, on the model. I also wipe the excess away quickly, as it cleans away the unwanted masking, decal solvent or what-have-you at once. Here's a shot showing a turret on my XB-40 build after using the Goo Gone to remove excess decal setting solution. The lighter green framing is all decal strips, put on with Micro Sol, Micro Set and some Solvaset. The darker green is MM enamel: Ed
  7. Alclad II Aqua Gloss. Doesn't affect the BMF at all, as long as you are doing a shiny bird. I often overcoat that with one of the other Alclad II clear, such as light sheen, semi-flat, etc. to tone it down if needed. Ed
  8. FWIW, I just ordered some more paints from True North, two days ago, and they just notified me this morning that the paints have shipped, so I guess they're good to go. Ed
  9. Since MM seems to be going away, may I suggest True North paints... Ed
  10. Refer to this discussion HERE Easiest way is to figure which a/c you want to model, check serial number and go from there to answer your question. Don't forget the "canted" landing gear based on serial nos also. Ed
  11. Actually, you have two good options: 1) Overcoat the aircraft with ANY of the Alclad II clear topcoats, preferably Light Sheen (ALC-311) , or Semi-Matt (ALC-312). Polished Aluminum on the F-84E on the right, ditto over-coated with Light Sheen on the F-84B on the left: or 2) shoot a thin layer of around 95% Alclad II thinner, mixed with around 5% plain Alclad II Aluminum (you can play with the ratio -- you won't hurt it -- start light first), and shoot it over the top. YF-105A shown below has several Alclad II colors over-coated this way to sort of kill the shine, and reduce the darker extreme colors at the same time. The lightest color is the Polished Aluminum (originally): Duck Soup! Ed
  12. You didn't say that the new painting was done from the same bottle of paint as the original. Could you have a bad bottle? I would test paint a test mule with another color from the earlier bottle if not the same, and also test the newer bottle/batch and try to pin down the quality aspect. Also make certain that no different thinner, etc. made it's way into the picture. Could just be a batch or poorly ground paint pigment. Ed
  13. Hi cf18hornet, I just checked the website and it IS acting strangely! However, I suspect that this is just due to the odd times we live in and that people or materials may not be able to make it into the production facility. Give it a little time and check with them again. Unless there was a major family problem or something, these paints are way too good to drop off the face of the planet! Also, I see no reason why eventually you should not be able to get them in Canada via land delivery. With the border being closed, it is a problem now. And as we all know, these days you probably couldn't even send mother' milk via air, even though they're building the aircraft with L'ion batteries, a FAR more dangerous thing, potentially! Anyway, good luck, Ed
  14. Aaron, I'm in the same boat as you, and have already done the homework. Go HERE: to True North Paints. They are around $5.00 per bottle, but they brush, aircrash and cover very well. Ed
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