Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt
  • advertisement_alt

TheRealMrEd

Members
  • Content Count

    206
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About TheRealMrEd

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 04/06/1944

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Interests
    1/72 US Military airplanes.
    Park Flyer R/C.

Recent Profile Visitors

3,214 profile views
  1. TheRealMrEd

    Canopies turning cactus over years

    Doesn't seem to bother either Alclad II or Colourcoats or Model Master enamels -- can't speak for anything else. I usually mask canopies with either Tamiya tape or Parafilm "M", and I use the Goo Gone for removing residue. Ed
  2. TheRealMrEd

    Filling a seam on a two part clear nose cone

    If you're into casting your own parts, www.moldputty.com has a clear casting material. I've used it in the past to cast clear parts -- works great! Ed
  3. TheRealMrEd

    Britmodeller Access

    Totally agree with Mstor! Nine times out of 10, if I get that message, it has to do with the DNS server. Sometimes I can just reset my cable modem and correct the problem, as I then get a new "lease" or connection. Ed
  4. TheRealMrEd

    Vacuforming

    Hi, JackMan, I used a couple of layers of Future floor wax, what ever it's called now. And for filler, these days I mostly use Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty, found at auto parts stores in the US. Here's another example. When I bought the conversion set for the Meng F-102 to turn it into a TF-102A, I just knew the canopy was going to give me trouble. But, it was just a hurry up, just in case kind of thing, so I didn't take much time with it. Sure enough, I screwed up the canopy, but one day I'll use my still-to-be-cleaned-up version to complete the build, (I hope!) Ed
  5. TheRealMrEd

    Is it necessary to seal decals?

    I've found that decals sealed with the Aqua Gloss can be masked over with Parafilm "M", with no lifting problems. Sometimes I use masking tape on top of Parafilm "M", the cut out along the tape edge and remove the excess Parafilm "M". Some of these techniques are shown in my current YF-105A Thunderchief build: YF-105A Ed
  6. TheRealMrEd

    Vacuforming

    Yep! I recommend the Durham's! JackMan, that was probably my P2V-3 Neptune build that you saw... Ed
  7. TheRealMrEd

    Canopies turning cactus over years

    Try Goo Gone. There are several other "look-alikes", such as label removers, etc. but they do not work as well for this. I use it to remove masking residue, etc. and it won't hurt the plastic. Ed
  8. TheRealMrEd

    HB 1/72 TA-7C OOB

    You'd probably have better luck with anything than the Fujimi kit. The intake on that kit is separate, and designed to snap into two grooves on the nose: Also, the Minicraft/Hasegawa kit has a short intake trunk that's blanked off at the rear end, for whatever that's worth. Ed
  9. TheRealMrEd

    Classic Matchbox Voodoo (OOB)

    For those who might be interested, a build of the kit showing some corrections and improvements that I did over on Britmodeler a year or so ago: RF-101B Build Ed
  10. TheRealMrEd

    P-47D cockpit color?

    here's a pic of a crashed Tennessee Air Guard P-47D, with the color you're looking for: I agree that the Euro I green is pretty close, but I'm betting the Colourcoats offering is right on the money. Ed
  11. TheRealMrEd

    OT--Anti-Virus Programs

    I run Malwarebytes, SuperAntiSpyware, and the Microsoft program that comes with the OS. Haven't had any problems in many years! Ed
  12. TheRealMrEd

    F-100c Super Sabre - 1/72 - Trumpeter

    Hi Bobo, Here's a blow-up of the same pic. What you are seeing is sort of an illusion, based on the reflection of the sun on the lighter-colored leaves of the stock F-100 burner can: Don't feel bad, I have made the exact same mistake (different photo) and also had helpful folks point out the error. Below are a couple more pics offering the same illusion: We still like your workmanship, nevertheless. Best Wishes, Ed
  13. TheRealMrEd

    F-100c Super Sabre - 1/72 - Trumpeter

    Hi Bobo-- A check over at the serial number repository Here: reads as follows: "2091 (MSN 217-352) was with 435th TFS Jul 1956. To MASDC Dec 6, 1971. To Turkish AF Jan 8, 1973 as 54-2091, code 3-091. Returned to USA Aug 1989. Registered to Tracor Flight Systems Jul 1989 as N2011M. To Global Aerosapce May 1992. To Albert Hansen of Mojave, CA as N2011M Sep 9, 1998. Now with Yanks Air Museum, Chino, CA." The Turks and other forces used them after 1973, just NOT the regular USAF. Ed
  14. TheRealMrEd

    F-100c Super Sabre - 1/72 - Trumpeter

    Bobo, One place is Here: A search on line of "Use of -102 burner cans on F-100" will yield others. General consensus is that they were first used on F-100's circa 1973 or so, although there is some mention of an ADC F-100C that may have been so equipped haven't seen one myself. An Air Force enlisted man got a ton of money for this suggestion, so the date is pretty firm. Beware of museum aircraft and other peoples' models which may not have been done correctly, either accidentally or by design. The reason I know this is because I researched this point thoroughly for the "C" and "D"models I built, hoping to use the F-102 can, but as neither subject was an Air Guard aircraft, I had no luck there. I do have a nice pic of an Ohio Air Guard "D" that I took in 1973 that I may yet build one day... Ed
  15. TheRealMrEd

    F-100c Super Sabre - 1/72 - Trumpeter

    Hi Bobo! You're right, the Trumpeter 1/72 F-100C has quite a few faults in the kit, bit you've done a very nice job, particularly with the detailing. The only thing I question is your use of the F-102 type afterburner can, as these were only used later on than these marking, and only in the Air Guard ( not regular USAF), as far as I know. Continued success in modeling... Ed
×