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TheRealMrEd

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About TheRealMrEd

  • Rank
    Rivet Counter
  • Birthday 04/06/1944

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Marietta, GA
  • Interests
    1/72 US Military airplanes.
    Park Flyer R/C.

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  1. TheRealMrEd

    3D printers

    What he said! Ed
  2. TheRealMrEd

    Oderless Mineral Spirits....

    I use MM thinner exclusively to thin MM enamels. Year ago, I tried some other brands of lacquer thinner, with so-so results. I do use LT or mineral spirits to clean brushes or air brushes. Ed
  3. TheRealMrEd

    3D printers

    Just gotta do the research. Some things of importance: Resolution. 3D printers print in layers. When you do a curved surface (like a flying saucer) you get hundreds to thousands of tiny "steps" (think Legos). The resolution determines how fine these steps will be, and the smaller the steps, the longer the object takes to make, which increases the expense factor. Also when done, you have a choice of just sanding the surface smooth, or first filling, THEN sanding the surface smooth. Either way, you're not gonna make any cheap Easter eggs! Next, you have size of the work area, usually 3" x 4" or some such. The larger the area, the more expensive the machine. Ditto, the height of the object you can create. If you're only making small objects, a cheaper machine will probably do. Lastly, you have whether the working base is heated or not -- useful for some items and materials. There are probably more, but you get the idea. These factors are why lots of folks just go to Shapeways, and get the printing done there -- cheaper in many cases. One last consideration, some machines are said to have 3D scanners built in. If so, I can really see that as being useful for quickly creating a print pattern from a 3D master. Good luck, Ed
  4. TheRealMrEd

    Best lighting?

    What I meant to indicate was that No color or other correction was needed with that setup, with the white balance set and the results checked occasionally with a grey card. Unless I'm trying to lighten or darken/ change exposure to better define a certain area of the pic, no adjustment is needed, color or otherwise! I use what I recommend to others, no speculation. In any event, the original question was about best working light for the general hobby area, not about photography! IMHO, the more light you have to work by, the better, EVERY time. Besides, few people shoot the pictures of their models under a bank of OTT lights, no matter how useful they are as bright lights with magnification. Ed
  5. TheRealMrEd

    Best lighting?

    I only use the 5000k lamps when doing the final photo shoot on the models. The rest of the time I do all my work in process shots under the 6500K room lighting on a white surface, and the proper white balance set in the camera. No correction is needed, as I occasionally check with a neutral grey card shot. The ONLY reason I use the 5000K lights on the final shots is to help eliminate the various directional shadows that would obviously exist from just the overhead bulbs. I actually migrated from the 5000K tubes and trust me, the lighting is much better like working in a brightly sunlit room. The difference might seem slight to others, but to my 74-1/2 year-old eyes, the difference is profound! Ed
  6. TheRealMrEd

    Best lighting?

    I was suggesting the 6500K lights for GENERAL workshop illumination as per the question asked by Welsh. The F-84's in my post were photographed under this lighting, BUT with added 5000K fluorescent and/or led 5000K lights. The 6500K is a much better light, for general reading, modeling etc., not necessarily for photography. Two different requirements.... Ed
  7. TheRealMrEd

    Best lighting?

    My $.02 worth: Your best bet for your garage is to go to your friendly big box store and find a cheapie 4-ft fluorescent light fixture. Then grab a couple (or four if your fixture demands it) of GE's #F32T8-SPX65 bulbs, which are a bright daylight 6500 Kelvin, or 6500K. I have these in a den where I shoot all my modeling photos. I also have an OTT magnifier light at my desktop, to shed direct light AND magnification on the work at hand, sometimes paired with a cheapie set of 6X reading glasses for a really closeup look. Best regards, Ed
  8. TheRealMrEd

    Usaf serial numbers, color

    Depends on the color scheme or camo, as well as the type of aircraft. Ed
  9. TheRealMrEd

    Masking over decals

    Get to know Parafilm "M". It is your friend..... Ed
  10. TheRealMrEd

    1/72 F-106B Two-seater ?

    Got my Trumpeter F-106B three days ago from Free Time Hobbies for $30.79 USD, plus shipping. You folks should be shopping Central Georgia (USA).... Ed
  11. TheRealMrEd

    Best 1/72 Modern Jet Kits

    Hi, For what it's worth, I really think the Hasegawa F-35B is way ahead of everyone else's for the 1/72 contender. It's dead accurate, as near as I can tell, and it's the only 1/72 version that doesn't have "garden fence" RAM panels. In addition, the other kits do not have the auxiliary air inlet door front the front lift fan, nor the driveshaft that's in that well: Since the whole hoopla about the "B" version is VTOL and STOVL, this is the only kit that let's you depict these characteristics, BUT with two provisos: 1) the kits stabilators are set in the horizontal position, whereas on VTOL, they are canted upward at the front. This can easily be fixed on the Hasegawa model by shaving off a tiny wedge from he front of the stabilators, instructions HERE 2) During VTOL landing and takeoff, the weapons bay doors are only opened the last few seconds BEFORE the actual takeoff, and during vertical landings, the weapons bay doors are only opened the last minute or less before the actual landing is begun (many films on U-Tube to verify this). Here is a pic of my model, shown just prior to takeoff: BTW, the multi-mission pod with GAU25 gun does NOT come with the kit! I found it on Shapeways (link in build thread). Since the jets software will not presently support a large part of the arsenal, I figured this tested pod would at least allow the Marines SOME CAS capability! My only beef with this model is that I would prefer the ram panel decals (which are great!) to be a little darker. That being said, pictures online show these panels to vary widely in how much they differ from the base color. I don't know if this a function of light reflectance, or the use of different materials at different times. Just my $.02 worth... Ed
  12. TheRealMrEd

    Help Needed ID'ing squadron emblem

    Thanks, Andrew.... Have just posted there. Ed
  13. Hi, I'm trying to I.D. this badge (presumed Squadron) from an F-84B Thunderjet, at Dow Field (or AFB), Maine, circa 1948-1949. This emblem appears on the port side of the aircraft, while the 49th Training Wing badge is on the other side. On-line and book searches has so far yielded ziltch. Appears to be maybe a bee riding a rocket... may be involved with early A.D.C. units... Thanks, Ed
  14. Hi, I'm trying to I.D. this badge (presumed Squadron) from an F-84B Thunderjet, at Dow Field (or AFB), Maine, circa 1948-1949. This emblem appears on the port side of the aircraft, while the 49th Training Wing badge is on the other side. On-line and book searches has so far yielded ziltch. Appears to be maybe a bee riding a rocket... may be involved with early A.D.C. units... Thanks, Ed
  15. Any of you old-timers out there who've converted from 1/72 to larger scales happen to have a C.T.T. Inc. (Dallas, TX) #9072 flexible clear plastic ruler they're willing to part with? Just overturned a bottle of liquid cement onto mine -- not pretty! Please PM if you've got one. Ed
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