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MoFo

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Everything posted by MoFo

  1. MoFo

    Darth Vader 3D Printed Statue

    Yup. If you set it to 1s, the printer will take 6.5s. But the time in your slicer will be wrong. If you set it to 6.5s, the printer will take 6.5s. But the print time in your slicer will be pretty much exactly right. Which is handy for knowing how long you have left in your print.
  2. MoFo

    AJSH-37 Viggen Correct Color Scheme

    You've got that backwards. It would be throwing good money after bad to spend more money on upgrades for the old kit, rather than simply cutting your losses and buying the new, better kit. Hence the sunk cost fallacy - I've sunk so much money/time/thought into this project that I have to keep going with it, even though objectively I'd be much better off if I just moved on.
  3. MoFo

    AJSH-37 Viggen Correct Color Scheme

    https://youarenotsosmart.com/2011/03/25/the-sunk-cost-fallacy/
  4. MoFo

    Darth Vader 3D Printed Statue

    Interesting. I've read a few comments saying the grey is tricky, which is weird, since their other opaques don't seem to be anywhere near as problematic - I've almost finished a litre of blue, and I've just been using the same settings as I did with clear green; I don't think I've had a single failed print. With this bottle almost finished though, I'm on the lookout for alternatives. Oh, and one thing to note with your settings... you should change the off time to 6.5 seconds. That's the actual minimum time it takes to raise and lower the build platform - even with it set at 1 second by default, it still takes 6.5 seconds to raise and lower - so using that value won't change your actual print time at all, but it will make the estimated print time in the slicer more accurate.
  5. MoFo

    Darth Vader 3D Printed Statue

    Which resins are you using? How do they compare to the green (cure times, detail, etc)
  6. MoFo

    lacquer coverage problem

    You're spraying too thick a coat. Use multiple light coats to gradually build up the paint colour, wait a few minutes between coats to give the paint a chance to start drying, and once you have the right colour, finish with a slightly heavier coat to level out the surface. It will take some practice to get a feel for the exact technique, so you might want to practice on an old, junk model. You should also give your primer longer to cure. If you can smell any paint on your model, the paint isn't cured.
  7. MoFo

    3D Printing Discussions

    I dunno. I'm not a fan of having a sub-forum for every little thing (I think all the armour, car and ship sub-forums could easily be contracted into one section for each subject) and I don't think there's really enough 3D printing posts to warrant a specific section for the topic. But it's regular enough that constantly hijacking Bill's 'I bought a printer!' thread isn't really tenable. Maybe a subforum for 'Computer Aided Modelling' that encompasses 3D printing, CAD modelling, decal design and printing, vinyl cutter/plotters, etc.? Maybe even roll it into the Aviation Art section since a big chunk of that section is digital - call it 'Alternative Modelling' or 'Outside the Box' (anything outside of traditional plastic modelling, from pencil drawings to 3D printing and everything in between).
  8. MoFo

    AMK 1/48 F-14!!!

    As can be seen in the canopy. LOL. You said exactly the same thing about the Tamiya kit when it was announced. And no, it's not going to be an exact scale up of the 1/72 kit because kit design doesn't work like that. Pretty sure you can look at their other 1/48 releases for a rough idea of what to expect.
  9. MoFo

    AMK 1/48 F-14!!!

    From the test shots, they've clearly gone with a four-part slide mold for the (one piece) canopy, rather than the standard three-part mold. So instead of having a single seam line down the middle of the canopy, there are two lines, at ~10 and 2 o'clock, meaning the weird line on the built display model's canopy isn't just a one-off. Huh.
  10. MoFo

    1/48 Mig-25 Upgrade Set Question

    No, there isn't. The correction sets for the KH kit won't fit ICM's Foxbat, and there hasn't been anything done for the ICM kit because, as mentioned, ICM already do a PD.
  11. MoFo

    1/4oz bottle caps?

    Again, you can check the specs on the manufacturer's website. https://www.caplugs.com/center-pull-tab-tapered-plugs-cpt
  12. MoFo

    KA Models aftermarket parts

    No. The B-1B uses an entirely different (and much larger) engine.
  13. MoFo

    1/4oz bottle caps?

    They're just re-purposed, commercially available plugs - here's the manufacturer's website: https://www.caplugs.com/ - so you could measure the bottle then scan through their catalog to find something that would fit. (my guess is that they're in this series - https://www.caplugs.com/tapered-caps-plugs-t - the series are mostly colour coded so you're limited to the red ones, and the paint caps have a model number 9-S on them, which would match one of the product numbers in this series) Unfortunately, the minimum order quantity seems to be 1000 plugs, but you might be able to work something out if you contact them. Or you might find something similar elsewhere. Maybe McMaster-Carr?
  14. MoFo

    Dspiae circle cutter

    Certain retailers/website names get autocorrected as a sort of SPAM filter, because they've been used by spammers in the past to advertise on the site. If you're talking about Ali Express... then yes, they're reliable, though shipping times can be slow. They're basically the Chinese version of Amazon, but with many 3rd party sellers, so similar caveats apply: the site itself is fine and I wouldn't hesitate to buy anything there, but it IS possible that you might have an issue with some random 3rd party seller (just like you could with Amazon). I wouldn't expect it, and it shouldn't be much of a problem resolving it through the main site, but still, be aware.
  15. MoFo

    Filling a seam on a two part clear nose cone

    LOCA. Used to adhere digitizers to LCDs in cell phones. Readily available at Amazon, eBay, Ali Express. and the like.
  16. Just to clarify, 'they' is actually you. You're linking to your own ebay listings.
  17. MoFo

    Bought a Printer!

    Pro-tip for people with SLA printers: the resin makes a fantastic filler, particularly for things like FDM prints. Brush on a thin coat of resin, let it self-level for a few minutes, then stick it outside in the sun for a couple of minutes to cure. Gives a fairly smooth surface right off the bat, plus it's way easier to sand than PLA, so it's a lot less work to get a perfect surface for paint. Basically, like XTC-3D, but you pick when it cures, so there's less of a worry about drips or runs, no concerns about heat, and zero waste. It should be great for things like panel lines, too, since you can apply it pretty precisely, wipe away the excess while it's still wet, and don't have to worry about shrinkage when it cures. (maybe we should start a generic 3D printing thread...)
  18. MoFo

    Air-to-Air Combat Between India and Pakistan

    No. Not if they're reputable, they don't.
  19. MoFo

    Air-to-Air Combat Between India and Pakistan

    You probably don't want to use a Russian propaganda website as an information source.
  20. MoFo

    KA Models aftermarket parts

    Wow, that's surprising. And dumb. Especially since they already do 1/48 CF decals.
  21. MoFo

    KA Models aftermarket parts

    The carbon fiber is almost certainly decal.
  22. That won't really work - the Modelsvit exhausts are 5mm (.2") larger in diameter than the Esci parts, so you'd be looking at major surgery in some form or another to get them to fit - either copious amounts of filling, or hacking an inch or more off the back of the nacelles. And when all is said and done, the Modelsvit parts are actually pretty awful;hey're really simple and crude and not much improvement over the Esci exhausts. IMO you'd be better off just using the Esci parts to depict the earlier engine type. They're not totally accurate, but they look broadly similar, (kind of like the kit itself) and it would be a lot less work.
  23. MoFo

    Bought a Printer!

    Three ways to help cope with that (in order of easiest to most 'correct': Increase your first layer thickness in Cura (or whatever slicer you use). This will make JUST the first layer thicker; all subsequent layers will be whatever you've set as your layer thickness. This doesn't fix the problem, it just makes the margin of error proportionately less significant (if you're out by .1mm on a .2mm layer, that's bad; if you're out by .1mm on a .8mm layer, it's not as big a deal). Related to this, you generally don't want layer height to be more than 80% of your nozzle's diameter - you want the plastic to squish down into the surface below, sort of like this pic - so if you're using a standard .4mm nozzle, you'll want to keep your layer height at .32mm or less. Minimum height doesn't matter (I regularly print at .04mm layer thickness), but maximum does. Use aluminum foil to shim up your build surface. You can put a few small squares of foil on your heatbed to fill in any dips, so that when you put your build surface on top, it will be level. Some people use tape, but I prefer foil since it conducts heat better than paper. Although with a removeable bed, your foil shims might move around as you pull the bed on and off. Plus, the heat will be a little less even, since it's not one solid piece contacting the build surface. Oh, and a good way to check for dips is to get a dial indicator or depth gauge and print out something like this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2412647 (there's a video embedded in the page; their channel has a bunch of good info, too). Basically, you level (tram) your bed, then mount the depth gauge and the printer will run a series of passes over the bed and the dial on the depth gauge will let you see what areas are too low/too high, and by how much. Then just shim in those areas and check it again. Or you could print out some wedge jacks and mount them between the Y-carriage plate and the heatbed to push out any dips in your bed. Again, it's best to go over your bed with the dial indicator so you know exactly where you're low, then you'll put a jack under that area and tighten it until the bed is level. The down side here is that your wedge jacks are going to be the same material you're printing with, so there's a risk they'll deform from the bed heat. I get around this by laminating some wood (which is a good insulator) on the top and bottom of the jack pieces, so it's not in direct contact with the bed. It's also fiddly to get the jacks in place and tightened exactly, but once it's done, it lasts a long time. I've actually done this on my CR-10, so I could eliminate the (heavy) mirror and just print on a thin sheet of PEI. Oh, and one other note about layer heights. On your Ender, you typically want to keep your layers to multiples of .04mm (.04, .08, .12, .16, .2, .24, .28 or .32 for the stock nozzle). The reason is that, running the math with the thread pitch on the leadscrew and the number of stops on the stepper motors, .04mm equals a full stop on the motors, so they can do it accurately and repeatedly. If you use a different number - say .1mm layers - the stepper is trying to hold between stops, so it can't do it as accurately, which will ultimately result in print defects.
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