Jump to content

MoFo

Members
  • Content Count

    3,571
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by MoFo

  1. No, there isn't. The correction sets for the KH kit won't fit ICM's Foxbat, and there hasn't been anything done for the ICM kit because, as mentioned, ICM already do a PD.
  2. Again, you can check the specs on the manufacturer's website. https://www.caplugs.com/center-pull-tab-tapered-plugs-cpt
  3. No. The B-1B uses an entirely different (and much larger) engine.
  4. They're just re-purposed, commercially available plugs - here's the manufacturer's website: https://www.caplugs.com/ - so you could measure the bottle then scan through their catalog to find something that would fit. (my guess is that they're in this series - https://www.caplugs.com/tapered-caps-plugs-t - the series are mostly colour coded so you're limited to the red ones, and the paint caps have a model number 9-S on them, which would match one of the product numbers in this series) Unfortunately, the minimum order quantity seems to be 1000 plugs, but you might be able to work s
  5. Certain retailers/website names get autocorrected as a sort of SPAM filter, because they've been used by spammers in the past to advertise on the site. If you're talking about Ali Express... then yes, they're reliable, though shipping times can be slow. They're basically the Chinese version of Amazon, but with many 3rd party sellers, so similar caveats apply: the site itself is fine and I wouldn't hesitate to buy anything there, but it IS possible that you might have an issue with some random 3rd party seller (just like you could with Amazon). I wouldn't expect it, and it should
  6. LOCA. Used to adhere digitizers to LCDs in cell phones. Readily available at Amazon, eBay, Ali Express. and the like.
  7. Just to clarify, 'they' is actually you. You're linking to your own ebay listings.
  8. Pro-tip for people with SLA printers: the resin makes a fantastic filler, particularly for things like FDM prints. Brush on a thin coat of resin, let it self-level for a few minutes, then stick it outside in the sun for a couple of minutes to cure. Gives a fairly smooth surface right off the bat, plus it's way easier to sand than PLA, so it's a lot less work to get a perfect surface for paint. Basically, like XTC-3D, but you pick when it cures, so there's less of a worry about drips or runs, no concerns about heat, and zero waste. It should be great for things like panel lines,
  9. You probably don't want to use a Russian propaganda website as an information source.
  10. Wow, that's surprising. And dumb. Especially since they already do 1/48 CF decals.
  11. The carbon fiber is almost certainly decal.
  12. That won't really work - the Modelsvit exhausts are 5mm (.2") larger in diameter than the Esci parts, so you'd be looking at major surgery in some form or another to get them to fit - either copious amounts of filling, or hacking an inch or more off the back of the nacelles. And when all is said and done, the Modelsvit parts are actually pretty awful;hey're really simple and crude and not much improvement over the Esci exhausts. IMO you'd be better off just using the Esci parts to depict the earlier engine type. They're not totally accurate, but they look broadly similar, (kind
  13. Three ways to help cope with that (in order of easiest to most 'correct': Increase your first layer thickness in Cura (or whatever slicer you use). This will make JUST the first layer thicker; all subsequent layers will be whatever you've set as your layer thickness. This doesn't fix the problem, it just makes the margin of error proportionately less significant (if you're out by .1mm on a .2mm layer, that's bad; if you're out by .1mm on a .8mm layer, it's not as big a deal). Related to this, you generally don't want layer height to be more than 80% of your nozzle's diameter -
  14. An ammonia-based window cleaner should strip the canopy quickly and cleanly (windex, windowlene, or the Australian equivalent thereof). Barring that, a weak ammonia solution (~5%) should work. Isopropyl alcohol = isopropanol = the alcohol wipes nurses use before giving you injections. It should be pretty easy to find at any pharmacy, in the first aid section. And I'd agree, the problem was likely that the Tamiya hadn't fully cured. Next time, try letting it set for a week before dipping.
  15. And the wrong size. And the wrong engine.
  16. Yeah, sloppy assembly is probably a big problem. If you approach it like you're building a CNC machine (which, functionally, it is), and make sure everything is square and true and tight, you'll be off to a good start; if you slam it together like IKEA furniture... not so much. I think the biggest problem is simply that people expect it to be some kind of Star Trek-like replicator or an appliance they can just plug in and use - like a modern car, or the latest smartphone - when really it's a machine that needs substantial user maintenance, like a Model T or a 70's computer. If you go into i
  17. Word of warning: FDM printers have a much steeper learning curve, with exponentially more variables and failure points. The Photon slicer has 5 machine settings you can tweak; right now, I've got 100 options visible in Cura, and there are many more that are accessible from the menus. Learn to use the machine out of the box (as much as possible) before throwing a bunch of modifications at it. The two biggest problems I see from new users are underextrusion and bed level. Underextrusion typically stems from a gap between the bowden tube and nozzle in the hot end; the
  18. Just an FYI... if anyone is a member of the AMK Facebook group and wants to share their photos without the risk of getting banned, PM me. I'd be happy to upload them so that everyone else can see.
  19. The parts are very good. The overall level of detail is on par with the FM Star Wars kits, but Bandai's details are sharper. Good in box review of the Y-wing here: http://www.themodellingnews.com/2015/08/review-bandai-172nd-scale-btl-a4-y-wing.html Scale is difficult to answer. The details are all 'in scale' - they're not clunky of oversized - but the actual kits are a different size than the FM or old Ertl kits. As in, the 1/72 Bandai kit is physically larger than the 1/72 FM kit. See a comparison of the Vader TIE here: http://s21.photobucket.com/user/IronChefMoFo/library/kit
  20. Yeah, the situation with Gravity has become... silly... in the past year. Apparently Splash are the new iteration of the 'official' Gravity in the US and I've read positive things about them, but YMMV. The short version now is, Zero is good everywhere (if you can get it), Gravity in Europe/from Spain is good; Splash from the US is probably good; Gravity in the US should probably be avoided. And if all else fails, you should be able to get an automotive paint store to mix you a touch-up jar of most paints, as long as you've got an official colour spec.
  21. Delayed. It's on the 2019 release list, so it hasn't been abandoned, but who knows when it will actually be released.
×
×
  • Create New...