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sting

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About sting

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    sting
  • Birthday 01/24/1967

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California-Land of Fruits & Nuts
  • Interests
    God<br />Famiy<br />Country<br />Aircraft Modeling<br />RC Airplanes/Helicopters<br />Flying Full Scale Helicopters (MD-500E/OH-58A+)
  1. After reading all these comments from the "people in the know", I recommend the USAf go back to flying hot air balloons. Thanks for the laughs guys. I needed them.
  2. I was wondering what fire did with those fuselages. Our sheriff's air unit is currently occupying the hangar these poor birds use to call their home. I took numerous walkaround photos of the cobras, but couldn't see much of the Huey. Thanks for posting.
  3. Try www.ACIG.org It's a web site dedicated to air combat and there are pretty comprehensive records of the air to air victories/losses of the American and No. Vietnamese.
  4. Here's a link to the Pensacola Air Museum's web site. The link will open to the museum's virtual tour and panoramic view of cockpits. It's probably not the exact ones you're requesting, but nice nevertheless. http://www.navalaviationmuseum.org/explore/exhibits-and-collections/cockpit-panoramas
  5. Hi Eric, The composite wing Intruders had a different wing hinge cover from the metal wing Intruders. Also, the weapons pylon directly below the hinge was different too. The only reference to the composite wing hinge I had at the time were hinge covers on the EA-6B Prowlers. They are similar, but I'm not sure they are exactly the same. It appears the Prowler's hinge covers set up higher or in other words thicker? I'm not sure, so my hinge covers may be wrong. Anyway, the wing hinge covers were replaced with what you see on the model. The weapons pylon bulge on the outside where it lines up with the wing hinge was enlarged. I also added the rearward facing "beer cans" near the trailing edge of the wing tips over the fuel vents, however those "beer cans" were not specific to composite wings only. Some metal wing Intruders also had them and I believe they were part of the SWIP upgrades. If an Intruder has the SWIP upgrade it doesn't mean it's a composite wing Intruder, so check your references if you plan to build one. Like I said, I had this build setting around for a couple of years and in the beginning, I didn't have good references for composite wing Intruders. I can admit I have more now, but I didn't want to start over. This build fought me all the way. It is not 100% accurate. There were some smaller details I could have added.
  6. I had this build on the back burner for some time and finally got around to finishing it. I made the following pieces specifically for Revell's Intruders & Prowlers and made multiple copies for future builds: Hard Intake Covers Hard Exhaust Covers FLIR Turret Composite Wing Hinge Fold Composite Wing Weapons Pylons Hard Covers For AGM-65 & AGM-88 Missiles The raised panel lines were scribed, crew ladder rebuilt and the in-board top wing strakes were replaced and repositioned. Decals consist of left overs from the stash, but I made the tail markings myself in Photoshop and clear ink-jet decal paper. Now that Kinetic have released their A-6E representing a composite wing Intruder, I won't have to bother converting Revell's ever again. However, Revell makes a great base for a nice pre-Composite Wing Intruder if one wants to take the time to scribe the panels and rivets.
  7. I used very fine fingernail polishing sticks to polish the plastic before I dipped them into Future. The polishers are the type you find in salons where women get their nails manicured. They are designed to polish and polish they do. I was surprised at the rainbow effect myself. There was no skill involved, so I guess I just got lucky.
  8. Thanks Chuck! You are absolutely correct and I never noticed it until you pointed it out. I'll watch out on my next Hornet build.
  9. I've tried regular paint thinner (mineral type)and lacquer thinner. The regular thinner works, but to me, it cures too slowly for my tastes. The lacquer thinner works fine to, but it can be too hot for some plastics. I don't know what Testors recipe is in their airbrush thinner, but it has the right combination I seek. I try to save every speck ofpaint I can. I can thin some MM paint, spray what I need of it and pour it back into the MM jar to use again. I know, to some, that's a no-no, but It's been working for me for years. I do this knowing I'll have to use that jar, mixed with the thinned paint, rather quickly. If I wait too long, the rest of the paint in that jar will be useless. I can't do all that with regular thinner or lacquer thinner. The paint in the jar will ruin too quickly. It may be I don't know of a cheaper thinner that's as good as Testors and I'm open for suggestions myself. I'm one of those die-hard types, when I find something that works I stick with it. Like I said, the average price for a can of Testors airbrush thinner is about $5-$6. I'll use it only for thinning the paint. I clean my airbrush with lacquer thinner which is a lot cheaper.
  10. Thanks for the comments guys. I have plans to do another 1/32 "A" in the near future, but from VFA-151 Vigilantes stationed aboard the USS Midway during ODS.
  11. I only use MM enamel paint and have been for many, many years. I've tried other brands, but I always went back to MM enamels. As you said, their flats are indeed flat, but I can't find anything else to match the quality and choice of colors. The negative, in my opinion, is I have to use Testors airbrush thinners for enamels to thin MM paints. It can be expensive, but the results can't be beat.
  12. I finished this kit last month. I used the Avionix F-18A "backdate" cockpit and vertical tails set. The vertical tails needed some work to get a tight fit. The cockpit's fit was perfect except for the insturment panel. The panel had chunks of resin on it that made it impossible to use, so I used the upper portion of Academy's "A" version insturment panel included in the kit and fit it to avionix's lower portion of the panel. Paint was Testors Model Master enamels and metalizers. Weathering consists of pre-shading, spot-painting and chalk. Decals are SuperScale. I read the book Hornets Over Kuwait by Jay Stout which provided the inspiration for the build. In the book, Stout describes the various missions he and the other pilots of VMFA-451 flew during Operation Desert Shield/Desert Storm. During one account of a mission he talked about a hornet which developed a bleed-air problem with one it's engines. That Hornet was grounded for the rest of the campaign. The problem I had was not knowing which Hornet had the bleed-air problem. I wanted to build this Hornet with heavy weathering to depict it as it would have looked at the end of the war. Unfortunately, after talking with Jay, I learned this was, in fact, the very jet (#12) that had the problem. Lesson learned: talk to the expert/s who were actually there first if possible. Anyway...enjoy!
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