Jump to content

sting

Members
  • Content Count

    248
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by sting

  1. Thanks guys for the comments. I really do appreciate them. I'm always striving for that perfect "real" look, but I haven't reached that point yet in my builds. My wife will say differently, but what does she know? I guess I'm happy enough to photograph them and post them. However, I'm never too old to learn new tricks and if someone can show me something I missed then the next one will be better...I hope :D I wasn't serious about Strike Eagles being boring because if they were, I wouldn't have 12 or so in my stash (thank you 40% off Michael's coupons). I see models posted here that are AWESOM
  2. Nimrod, I'll have to dig through my collection to find the remains of the sheet, but I think it was Aeromaster Decals or EagleStrike Decals. I'll let you know when I find them. LnL, the decals only came with the red dressed girl and the sources I have only show the one girl on the left side. I don't recall seeing any nose art on the right side on any Strike Eagle....so far.
  3. Thanks Aaron! I appreciate the feedback. I guess my intent was, as you said, to bring out the detail. I have numerous Strike Eagles in my stash. The next one won't look like this one which, by the way. is my first Mudhen. The dark gunship grey color kind of hides the great detail Revell put into them. . Wayne, I believe at one time the Memphis Belle nose art on this same aircraft started out as Memphis Belle II and was later changed to III. I don't remember where I read this. I think I read it on the Strike Eagle web site. This nose art is also featured in Osprey's F-15C/E Eagle Units of OIF.
  4. Aaron, are the panel lines too dark or are you refering to the pastel weathering? My photography is much to be desired. I had to move my photo area out to my shop and I lost natural lighting, thus the improvised lighting in my work shop really brings out the dark wash and pastel weathering. It really isn't as bad as it appears in the photos darn it I know the topic of Strike Eagles not getting very dirty compared to other jets was posted here once and someone disproved that myth by posting pics of some dirty SEs. I wish I had saved those pics, but oh well. Thanks for the comments guys and
  5. Great job!! Nice finish :)
  6. A couple more shots added with the seeker heads on the GBUs and AIM-9s painted on the bottom pic.
  7. Mark, you are 100% correct on the titanium being too far forward. Where was my head??? I know where it was, but I want to keep this clean :D I'll see if I can fix it.
  8. I know what you're thinking, "Another Strike Eagle? Boring..." I liked the nose art, so I had to do it. I thought I was finished a few weeks ago, that is, until I received The Modern Eagle Guide by JM. I went back and added Shawn Hull's LAU-129 missile launchers, added a nose gear weight, GPS dome on top of the right side of the airframe and "stubbed" off the rear ends of the external fuel tanks to resemble 'Nestable" fuel tanks seen on F-15Es during the kick off of OIF. Decals are a mix of Aeromaster and kit decals to depict F-15E 89-0485 of the 336th FS/4th FW based at Al Udeid (The Dirty De
  9. I used Bare-Metal.com starter kit when I began making "stuff". I've always had good luck with their RTVs and mould making puddy. http://www.bare-metal.com/Mold-Making-Resi...tarter-Kit.html
  10. The engines are T700-GE-401 I believe. Google Images has plenty of photos you can use. Wikipedia is useful too with a great pic and other links. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/General_Electric_T700
  11. Thanks AB! It took me several tries to get the nozzles right. I lost count of how many times the Dremel tool with a polishing wheel sent them flying across my workshop My wife loved it when it was complete and that is a good thing!! There are certainly a few things I would change if I could go back in time. I got my references a weee little too late for this one.
  12. More pics... Like I said earlier, I had taken these shots in a hurry, so please excuse the lack of choice angles.
  13. I use a black acrylic wash with a mixture of 1 part paint to 2 parts water with two-three drops of liquid dish soap. Apply to the rivets (raised or engraved doesn't matter), with a paint brush, wait for the wash to dry for about 30 minutes then lightly wipe with a damp cloth or Q-Tip. If using Testor Metalizers make sure the metal area is sealed with the Metalizer Sealer or a clear coat before applying the wash.
  14. You're right! What was I thinking??? I'll post pics of the other side later tonight after I'm off work. Thanks for pointing that out, I need to pay more attention to what I post. The assymetrical load is so cool too. I'll get them posted ASAP!
  15. I'm finishing a Strike Eagle, Memphis Belle III", and should be followed by a B-25J. I suffer the syndrom of starting one project and going to another before finishing the 1st. I have several "in-progress" builds and sooooo many models and decals to match!!!
  16. A few more of the seat and pilot.
  17. I shot these photos in a hurry, so I apologize for the poor pics. I wish I had more refrences before I started this one, but oh well. It has the assymetrical weapons load with kit decals and a SJU-17 seat from Legend. I hope you like it!!
  18. I used a Badger 155 for the camo. I had just purchased it and was eager to try it. I practiced with it for a few days to get the feel for it before using it on the Phantom. On a side note, I purchased a dual action, internal mix airbrush from Harbor Freight Tools last year for about $20. I just wanted to see see what it could do. I don't even know who the manufacturere is, but it sprays a tight line for camouflage work. It's not a Badger or Iwata by any stretch of the imagination, but it's great for someone just starting out or for someone with a limited budget. My family is doing well. Than
  19. I was in the middle of building this F-4E, along with an Academy 1/32 F-18C, when tragedy struck my family. This, along with work, didn't allow me to dig into modeling like had once did. Well, I'm back in the saddle again and here's the completed Pro Modeler F-4E. A great kit except for the lack of intake details. Seats are from Legend and SB intake covers. It's not my best, but reflecting on the last year's events...I feel fortunate to have been able to finish it. I'll post pics of the 1/32 F-18C later.
  20. I've used other brands in the past, but I always went back to Testor's Glosscoat and Flatcoat and have stayed with them for over 15 years. However, I've always used Testors airbrush thinner with them both. Has anyone used both the thinner and lacquer? If so, which one gives the better results?
  21. BuNo 161142, #210, appears to have blanks over the gun's gas vents. Hmmm? I think that's the first photo I've ever seen of a Tomcat with gas vents, or the lack of, like #210.
  22. Looks like they're part of the cannon port.
  23. I use acrylics mixed with liquid dish soap and diluted with water for my washes over a gloss coat. I apply the wash to panel lines with a paint brush and let it dry. I remove it with a moist, not wet, paper towel or an old cotton t-shirt. Wipe perpindicular to the panel lines. After a few hours the wash will dry completely. If it's not dark enough, do it again. I found that even though the wash doesn't appear dark at first, after I spray a clear coat over the model to seal the wash, it turns darker. Do not apply to a flat finish unless you plan to use it as a pre-wash. My acrylic paint to dis
  24. Here'a photo I found on FLIKR. It's not very big, but It shows the pockets. http://flickr.com/photos/planephotoman/225...-fairchild_a-10 I've seen photos of Hogs taxing with these on the glare shield. Do Hog pilots fly with these on the glare shield or are they placed there after landing?
×
×
  • Create New...