Kiwi

Thanks guys, that is exactly the information I was looking for. After I posted my question I broadened my search question on Google and came up with the alternative designation of D16 for the drone which yielded some better photos. One more question for Bill, what shade of Red did you use, Signal Red?

I am considering modelling a U 16 target drone and I need help with the colour scheme. I have some good profile photos showing the fuselage colour demarcation but I am struggling to find photos or details of the upper and lower wing surfaces. Can anybody out there help?

Apart from inkjet decal paper and suitable software you will also need something to seal the decals. Different paper manufacturers have different recomendations, but clear acrylic varnish works well. Don't forget that you can't print white with an inkjet printer. HTH

Hi 'usetherudders' I also use humbrol enamal matt white (matt paint has less problems than gloss). My technique is to thin the paint with turps about 50:50 and apply several light coats. If you use a low pressure and take your time it is possible to build up several coats in one session. The darker the base colour (in this case the model plastic) the more coats you will need. In my experience adding a light grey undercoat reduces the number of coats of white you will need but the white will eventually cover just about any dark plastic.

You could try using a circle template, available in stationary stores.

I have used Corel Draw for some time now and find it works well, and I have heard good reports about Adobe Illustrator

To print your own decals you will need decal paper specific to your type of printer, ie Inkjet or Laser. This paper can be found on line if your local model store doesn't stock any. Most inkjet paper has to be coated with a sealer such as acrylic varnish, the paper manufacturer will give details. One point to note is that an Inkjet printer cannot print white. A set of serials or codes in white cannot be printed on clear decal sheets. If you print white on white decal paper then you have the chore of trying to cut around the outline. It is possible to produce a wide range of declas using an i

Thanks for your input. It is good to know there is some debate about that particular scheme. In the past I have made the mistake of blindly following a colour scheme based only on a set of drawings only to find they were wrong, I hope not to make the same mistake twice. Just because it is in colour and has been published doesn't mean it is correct.

I have found a drawing of a Hampden TB1 of 489 Sqn RNZAF operating in 1942 out of Leuchars in Scotland. The aircraft represented is AN172 (Y-XA) and it has a colour scheme of Sky undersides and ? Med. sea grey upper surfaces. My question is does anybody have photgraphic confirmation of this scheme on Hampdens, or any other type for that period, or does anybody have document evidence that this scheme was in use at that time. To confuse matters I have drawings attributed to the same author (William Green) showing the same aircraft in the more usual Dk. Slate Grey/Dk. Sea Grey upper surfaces a

Sounds like the markers used to write on acetate sheets used on overhead projectors. Should be available at stationary stores or school supply stores. HTH

How about PVA (white glue)?

For 1/72nd scale why not make your own instrument decals? I have been trying this for a while now and it works fine for me. All you need is a drawing programme and some photos of the desired panel. At 1/72nd scale all you need is the impression of guages with needles on them so a simple black disc with a white diagonal line is just fine. In fact you can use plain paper instead of decal paper.

What about thread sealing tape as used by plumbers? The roll I have is called "CEELON" if that is any help. It is thin , feels like plastic to the touch, it sticks to itself if stretched tightly around the shaft (just tried it on a toothpick and it works fine).

There is a simple technique in the 'Tools 'n'Tips section. The basic principle is to buy a sheet of clear decal paper for whatever printer you are using ie inkjet or laser. Print your chosen design Seal the decals, if using an ink jet printer. Cut out the decals and apply. HTH

Corel draw is another option, as is Paint Shop Pro and Photoshop Elements, all of which are cheaper than Photoshop. The big problem is not being able to print white unless you can get hold of an ALPS printer. Either paint the white areas first (if printing on clear film) or trim around the decals very carefully (if printing on white). If using an inkjet printer pale colours can also come out semi transparent. HTH