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About BOC262

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    Sow justice, reap peace

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    New Jersey USA
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    Airplanes--civil, military, big, small, props, jets, single engine, multiengine, single wing, multiwing, helicopters, all eras. Used to do 1/72, now mostly into 1/48, with some larger aircraft in 1/144; injection, vac, resin and now getting into scratchbuilding. I build slowly, strictly for myself, to my own self-imposed standards and style. I believe interest and enthusiasm are just as important as skill and talent. I make no claims for my modeling other than I enjoy doing it.

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  1. Thanks Steve. I hope you find it helpful. Karl
  2. This may be of interest to some of you: Secrets of Expert Mold Making & Resin Casting, 2nd edition, written and illustrated by Karl Juelch. 120 pages, over 100 detailed illustrations with supporting text show and tell exactly what to do to create high performance molds capable of making perfect, professional quality castings. Most books and articles leave out important bits of information, making it impossible for the beginner to get professional quality results. I was lucky enough to apprentice with a master mold maker who shared the secrets needed of making flawless castings. I then spent a number of years running my own mold making and resin casting business. All that knowledge and experience went into writing this book--nothing has been left out, all the secrets are revealed. Starting from the simplest molds, the book will guide the reader into more advanced techniques using vacuum, pressure and heat for the most demanding casting needs. Also discussed are methods for making core molds to produce hollow castings. To the best of my knowledge this subject has never been covered in print before. Emphasis is on low cost, low tech methods that are suitable for home shop use. Here are links to several reviews: http://www.nscale.net/forums/showthread.php?31697-Mold-Making-and-Casting-Book&p=341099#post341099 http://12emodels.free.fr/5-ressources/2-bibliotheques/maquettes/expert_mold_making.htm The book is available on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Expert.../dp/1492294942
  3. Thanks Phantom, your advice makes perfect sense, and I will remember it for next time. Unfortunately, all the small parts are already glued on, so I will just have to take my chances and hope for the best. Karl
  4. I know this question has been asked and answered before, but over an hour of determined searching both here and on other sites has not turned up any useful answers. What is the best way to pack a completed plastic model for the mail so it arrives at its destination still in one piece? To be specific, the model is the 1/72 Airfix Stirling, so we are talking tall, stalky undercarriage, gun turrets, etc. Any advice will be greatly appreciated! Thanks! Karl
  5. Thanks for the additional info! I use lead bird shot purchased from a gun shop back in the '80s. Bought a big sack of it and suspect it will last the rest of my life.
  6. A friend alerted me to the possibility that lead used as weight for tricycle geared models can undergo a chemical reaction that causes it to crystallize and expand over time. The expanding lead will eventually exert enough force to spilt seams and destroy even single piece nose cones. He showed me pictures of models that were anywhere from 10 to 15 years old, split to pieces and looking pretty much unsalavageable. He believes the problem is more likely to occur with "old" lead--supposedly newer lead alloys are less likely to crystallize. There is also some speculation that this may be a reaction between lead and CA glue. Here is a link to that European site showing pix of models split apart by expanding lead/CA: http://www.ratomodeling.com/articles/lead_ca/lead_ca.html I use lead bird shot secured with CA glue to weight my trike geared models, so this news really has me worried. I have a lot of rare, OOP models and I would hate to see them destroyed this way. Has anyone experienced this problem? What are your oldest models with lead weight and what is their condition? Do you typically use CA to secure your lead weights? What are the typical weather conditions where you live? Could it be an issue of extreme humidity or temperature? Perhaps other factors causing it to happen? Or factors to prevent it? Why would it happen to some, but not others? Thanks for any further thoughts on this--I'm really worried for the future of my models. Karl
  7. So sorry to hear of your troubles with the Nieuport. I hate it when things like that happen--either to me or someone else. I read your blog entry--sounds like you really had a bigger issue with assembly, and if the assembly stage isn't sound, it is only going to make the rigging more difficult. I have found it helpful to try to sort out the fit issues between wings, struts, etc before applying glue. I know it can be challenging to dry fit such assemblies, but it is possible to do it in stages. For instance, check to see if the strut pins fit properly into their respective holes in the wings, fuselage, etc. Do they seat properly? Make whatever adjustments you need to make to insure the pins go all the way into the holes. If struts are angled, eyeball the angle while holding the strut in the hole--is it still seating properly? Once you have determined the struts are fitting into their corrseponding holes properly, then you can start thinking about applying some glue. I never attempt to glue and assemble the cabane struts and interplane struts simultaneously--that requires more than 2 hands to do! If any of the struts are of an "N" configuration, that simplifies things immensely--they are virtually self aligning and should be glued first--doesn't matter if they are cabane or interplane. The "N" strut automatically aligns itself fore and aft--all you have to worry about is the left-right alignment. That is often possible to do using just the calibrated Mk.I eyeball--or you can make a simple hand held jig from a piece of paper or light card. Sometimes the top wing itself can be used as an alignment jig. When you are satisfied that it is possible to align the struts, apply glue to just the end of the struts that connect to a fixed surface--ie, the fuselage in the case of cabane struts, or the previously attached lower wing in the case of the interplane struts. Apply the glue, true up the alignment, and let the glue dry thoroughly before moving on. Once that first set of struts is securely fastened, then it is possible to carefully glue the upper wing into position. Walk away and let the glue dry thoroughly. You will now have the upper wing attached securely to the model. It will be a rather delicate assembly because it is only attached through one set of struts. Carefully ease in the remaining struts, double check alignment and fit issues. Make any adjustments needed, then apply glue. Let the glue dry. Now that the upper wing is securely attached to the rest of the model you are ready to begin rigging. IMHO, the easiest, quickest, most trouble free and effective way to rig is to use monofilament line glued into pre-drilled holes. In addition to being super easy, this method will add considerable strength to your completed model. You need to prepare for rigging with this technique before the model is fully assembled. I typically like to build the model up to the point where the lower wing, horizontal and vertical tail pieces are glued to the fuselage--now it is time to paint. Once painting is completed (and I will often add decals at this stage too), it is time to drill holes for the rigging. I like to use a number 79 or 80 drill bit chucked into a pin vise. Drill part way into the bottom of the upper wing, and all the way through the lower wing. Make sure the holes are drilled at an angle that matches the angle of the rigging. Once all the holes are drilled, go ahead and mount the upper wing as described in the above paragraph. Be very careful not to let glue foul your predrilled holes--it can be bear cleaning them out--DAMHIKT! BTW, it is usually easier to mount any inter-cabane rigging before the top wing is glued into position. When the wing/strut assembly is throughly dry, cut lengths of rigging about an inch or two longer than needed. Some guys try to make one length of line go through multiple holes. I never quite understood the value of doing that and found it makes the job a lot harder to do, so I just use one piece of line for each straight line run. Run your lines through the predrilled holes--for instance, run the forward flying wires that go from the root of the lower wing up to the top of the interplane struts. While using a tweezer to hold the end of the line into the partially drilled hole in the bottom of the top wing adjacent to the interplane strut, use a small piece of wire, tooth pick or other tool to place a tiny drop of super glue on the end of the line where it enters the wing. Capillary action will whisk the glue into the hole and almost instantly glue the line to the wing. I like to wait a bit to be sure it is secure. Go ahead and glue all the lines into the bottom of the top wing using the same method. Once the glue has a little time to cure, now you can start gluing the ends of the lines where they pass through the bottom wing. A slight amount of weight will pull the line taught--I like using miniature locking forceps for weight, but I have heard of others using clothes pegs or locking tweezers. Once you have the lines taught, apply tiny drops of super glue. Give the glue time to cure, then use a razor or sharp scalpel blade to trim the excess line away. Touch up with paint and you are done! I have used other methods such as steel wire, stretched sprue, etc, and IMHO they are MUCH more difficult than the above described method. Good luck, be patient, and I predict you will be amazed to find how truly easy rigging actually is. HTH! Karl PS--I used the "N" strut example above because it is the easiest to deal with--"N" struts are self aligning fore and aft and they can't twist. Vee struts are the second easiest--they are pretty much self aligning, but you have to be much more careful with them because they can twist and/or rock fore and aft, causing problems with angle of incidence and the fit of cabane struts. It is usually best to glue Vee struts to the top wing--that way they are as self aligning as "N" struts. Single, individual struts are the hardest to align because they are free to move along all axes--but all strut types can be dealt with by making simple jigs from paper or lightweight card. For example, here is a picture of a simple card jig I made for aligning the interplane struts on the Eduard Camel. Jigs are your friends, and the time it takes to make them is repaid in ease of assembly.
  8. Make capillary action and gravity work in my favor--brilliant tip! Thanks Edgar.
  9. I was trying to save some time, money and anguish by tapping into the knowledge base here, but yes, you are absolutely right--there comes a time when only experimentation will yield definitive answers. Thank you for your suggestions.
  10. I've never used Testors liquid glue--will have to get some and give it a try. Thank you Phantom!
  11. Ahh, now I get it! The tape acts as a barrier. I can see how that will help with at least part of my problem, but not sure how it will keep the edges of the very thin (5 though or 10 thou) styrene from melting, buckling and distorting. Thanks Edgar!
  12. Our local Lowes and Homey's now only carry MEK Substitute. I have no first hand experience with it, but I have seen a number of posts online saying that MEK Substitute is no good for gluing styrene.
  13. Yes, that is exactly what I am trying to do. The very thin embossed plastic is placed on the surface I am trying to glue it to, and then a small amount of liquid cement is touched to the edge and capillary action wicks it into the joint. Problem I am encountering is puckering, buckling and distortion--the liquid cement I am using (Ambroid or Tenax) seems to be too hot and is melting the very thin plastic card. It sounds like both of you are saying that MEK is not as hot as some other plastic solvents--is that correct? Buying MEK used to be as simple as going to the local home center. Now it is no longer carried and my understanding is the price has gone up too--assuming it can be found. I am trying to find out if MEK will be suitable for my needs before spending $20-40 on something that may not do the job.
  14. No, I haven't tried that. Not sure if it would be strong enough for long term. For instance, a "skin" can be made with embossed rib detail to fit over a wing that has been scrubbed of coarse rib detail--big surface area, and curvature. I would think the glue could "creep" and eventually fail.
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