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Mirko Meier

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  • Content Count

    15
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About Mirko Meier

  • Rank
    Snap-Together
  • Birthday 03/02/1978

Contact Methods

  • MSN
    mirkomeier78
  • Website URL
    http://

Profile Information

  • Location
    Lima - PERU
  • Interests
    WWII planes and Armor (particularly german)
  1. Hello: I think IWATA is what you are looking for in this case. I don't know if you have mix your paint in the airbrush cup or sepparately, but you can not do the mixing on the Iwata cup, or it will clog or spit in the beggining. Take a look at the Paasche VJR, good price, low maintainance, cheap spare parts and better results than this particular IWATA.
  2. Hello Mark: Well, it is a very difficult decision to take. First of all, think what kind of modelling do you like (aircraft, armour, ships, etc) after that, which scale do you prefer(1/32, 1/48, 1/72). Once you know this then you can start thinking of a particular airbrush. For example, lets say you like building WWII aircraft in 1/48 (which is my particular case), then you will need an airbrush that allows you to apply the base color, and probably after that apply some small patterns of camouglage of different colors thickness and shapes, right?? If you were interested into armor modelling,
  3. Nice job overall, but sincerely the side strips made with the airbrush are not good at all, and just a personal tought but the weathering seems to subtle for the amount of use that plane got. Landing gear and tires can vstly improve with some weathering, maybe oil paints or pastel chalks....
  4. Hello everybody: Here are some pics of Peruvian Mig-29 and Mirage 2000. All were taaken during a Peruvian-USA exhibition in Lima Peru.
  5. Hi: I found that this technique works great. It takes a little bit of time but you will be surprised with the results. First, paint the exhaust with a metallic enamel color ( I prefer Aluminium). Then, let it dry for 24 hours and apply a coat of future or any gloss lacquer. Let 24 hours to dry again. Now, here comes the fun part. First pply a very diluted flat black coat to all the piece. Then just wipe out the black paint with a cloth or something in a sright direction. Let it dry for a while. Now you can apply oil washes, very dilutted, of the followin colors: Raw umber, prussian blue a
  6. Hello everybody. Couple of days ago somebody was asking how to make pitots that may last forever. Well, I spend 10 minutes making this small article that I hope you may find helpful. First, ll the materials you may need. I usually use my Dremel instead of the file but I tried to make this as simple as possible. I have no trouble finding this hypodermic syringes in any drugstore. Usually a great combination for pitots in 1/48th scale are #21 plus #25. For 1/32 #18 and #21. The next step is to cut both edges with a cutter or metal plier. So after previous step this is what you may hav
  7. Hello, if you want pitots that last forever and harder as rock you need the following: - Hypodermic needles (like the ones physicians use for injecting drugs or vaccines) #18, #21 or #23-#25 (thats the gauge). -Dremel or a good set of files or even sanding paper for metal. -Cianoacrylate You will find that the needles are hollow and you can file the sides, and even better, you can insert a #25 piece into a #21 needle making a perfect pitot. I will make one this weekend and post some pictures here. Until then....good bye
  8. Hi there. For every kit in 1/48 TAMIYA is your answer besides the Ju-87 in which case I recommend HASEGAWA. About the Me-262 you NEED to buy Tamiyas kit, check out my article just OOB at the gallery....good luck
  9. Hello everybody, this is my Tamiya 1/48 Skyrider. Any comment or question is more than welcomed...... I usually build WWII German planes but this is a little exception.....just OOB....
  10. Hello: Nice job, but i have some advice to give. I think the color you used is a little bit to dark for the cockpit. I usually use RLM66.
  11. Thanks. Well, first I painted everything with RLM 66 enamel. After that, using the RLM04 enamel I hand painted the wires with a 3/0 paintbrush. Same as with the other details. After that to speed things a little bit up I brushed some "future" over everything, let about 1 hour to dry and after that the oil wash. Now, for the oil wash I usually use raw umber but this time I choosed burnt sienna. You have to make a very thin wash and apply it everywhere, let dry for couple of hours and hen wipe it off with a piece of linen or Q-tip.
  12. Yes indeed... this is Revell/Monogram 1/48 kit.
  13. You should probably add some fumes at the exhaust, probbly using some pastel chalk dust, or easier with a very thinned black paint. You can also try to apply some light wethering to the entire plane with some diluted oils, preferably raw umber or burnt sienna....some paneling too i guess..... but beside those small details very nice....
  14. Hello everybody: This is my first post. I found a little tricky all this about attaching pics but anyway here they are. I started my third MeBf110 yesterday, so here are some pics of the cockpit. Everything OOB besides the seatbealts made with alumminium foil and the harnesses with some cooper wire. This kit is for a friend so he does not want to add any more resin or photoetched details. I am letting the oils dry to give the final touch..... Any comments are more than welcomed, thanks...
  15. Hello: I have a couple of Paasche airbrushes, a VJR and a VL. If I paint with enamels I use MINERAL SPIRITS(available at Ace, Mnards, etc) paint remover for thinning and cleaning. If I paint with acrylics I use ISOPROPYL ALCOHOL(available at any drugstore). Hope this helps
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