MathmanAHS

I have had good luck with Vallejo in the past in terms of ease of use. The colors, however, I am not convinced are very accurate at all. Here is a bottle of FS35237 Medium Gray. I shot a bit of it with Vallejo Dark Ghost Gray so you can see how blue the Medium Gray is. I understand that it is supposed to be on the blue side, however, this is a bit ridiculous. I ended up mixing Tamiya to get closer to the correct color, but I was very disappointed to say he least at how blue the Vallejo was. Oh well.

I recently switched from a Badger Anthem to the Iwata Eclipse. I couldn’t be happier. The Eclipse has a good heavy feel and a smooth trigger. I also like how easy it is to clean. I have had better luck with freehand camp and fine detail work. I am no expert by any means but am happy with the switch.

I am so glad I found this podcast (and the other ones they mention). So much info and entertainment, really helps keep the mojo going. These guys are great and well worth the listen. Bill

So here are a couple quick shots of where I am at now. Need to touch up some spots here and there, then clear coat and start the weathering process. The Light Ghost gray is a bit light and the dark a bit too dark, but I like the contrast. The medium gray is a mix of Tamiya grays, I forget the numbers (19, 82, and some 2). Thanks for looking.

I thought about that last night at work. So, in the interest of being sure, I shot it on some white plastic. I also shot a bit with the dark ghost gray as well. Oh well.

Just a quick update before I head to work. I have the main paint colors down finally. I used Vallejo for all three main colors, however, I ran into a problem with the medium gray. I don't know if it was from a bad batch or what, but it was decidedly blue. Ridiculously blue. Almost early-WW2 USN Blue-Gray blue. So, I set it down for a couple days because I was going to chuck the model in frustration. However, I was able to fix it by shooting the edges with the light ghost gray and using a Tamiya mix to get a color I could live with. Anyways, this experience has really screwed up my expe

I have had some excellent results recently with Vallejo insignia white. I think the key is low pressure, properly thinned, and thin coats. I am usually good at 2-3 coats.

You know, the whole plot of the movie is just putting Martin Sheen on the carrier to make sure to get Katherine Ross her dog back. That’s why Tideman (James Farentino) put him on the Nimitz.

So here is where I am right now. Got the main part of the fuselage together and what little seems sanded (my issue, not the kits). Also got the exhausts built and painted, though I am not 100% satisfied with them. I will work on them when I weather the rest of the plane. Also got the Furball tail reinforcement plates installed. Super easy and I like the look of them. Not overly thick, easy to install. Plugging away and moving forward...

Here is where I am today: Cockpit done, front gear bay done and nose together. Not perfect, but I am happy where it is at. Gotta take a break for a coupe days (working nights in the ER doesn't give me much time when I am working a stretch, thankfully only tonight and tomorrow night).

Here is where I am at right now. Just painting the cockpit.

Hi everyone, I am planning on building a Tamiya A in VF-32 marking from the 1989 Libyan shootdown. I have the Furball decal set that I am going to use for markings (can't decide between 202 or 207, fortunately I don't have to right away). I am going to use a Black Box TCS pod from an old Bombcat set I have in my stash, Furball tail stiffeners, and Master alpha and AOA probes.

Hi all, I am going to buld a Tamiya A, out of the box except for TCS pod from an old Blackbox Bombcat set, alpha probe and AOA sensor from Master (this is because I have a habit of breaking small pointy plastic things and I am hoping that isn't the case with small pointy metal things) and stiffeners from Furball. I am going to use the Furball sheet that has the Tomcats from both incidents with Libya and am planning to do one of the two VF-32 jets, trying to decide between 202 and 207.

AM's SBD (in all its guises) is by far the most accurate version out there. It is not always the easiest to build and there are some fit issues, but if you take your time you will end up with a fantastic replica of the Dauntless.

As was mentioned, the time frame and specific aircraft will determine if your Hellcat should be 3-tone or overall GSB. A simple rule to follow is if it is an F6F-3, it should be tri-color. If it is a -5, it should be overall GSB (not set in stone, but a very good rule of thumb to go by concerning the Hellcat). Also, as mentioned before, VF-27 off the Princeton had both -3's and -5's at different times. When it was sunk, most were -5's and GSB. At Phillipine Sea (Marianas Turkey Shoot), they were all tri-color -3's.